Cascade Crew

91camaro_rs

ok i was driving it today and like .5 miles away from my house i go up a hill and it sputters a little bit and dies. i checked plugs and wires, some broke replaced them still no start. checked fuel...im getting fuel. checked fuses...all are good. i have no idea whats wrong with it, it was running fine yesterday. what do you guys think it is?

kurfbird · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:31 pm Post subject: Check Coil

Have you checked for spark??

Igntion Module
Coil
Pick up coil

91camaro_rs · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:53 pm Post subject:

there is no spark...so idk how to check the ignition module, but i was gonna try a new coil tomorrow. the car turns over and everything just wont start

kurfbird · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:58 pm Post subject: Ignition module

I would lean torward and Igntion module. Have ahd them go bad. But it could be any of the three

Igntion module
Coil
Pick up Coil.

I woudl go for the igntion module first.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:04 pm Post subject: Re: Ignition module

91camaro_rs · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:12 pm Post subject:

90k on a rebuilt motor

how do i check the ignition module

kurfbird · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:35 pm Post subject: NO spark

Take the igntion moudle to autozone shucks Napa and they can test it for you.

91camaro_rs · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:37 pm Post subject:

haha better question...what and where is the ignition module

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:53 pm Post subject:

it is an electronic "thingie" underneath the distributor cap. you know where you connect the small wires (not plug wires) to your dizzy? THAT is the ICM. the pickup coil connects to it.

it's the black thing.

91camaro_rs · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:40 pm Post subject:

well i guess i just gonna have to get that and a new coil and see what happens

91camaro_rs · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: Ignition module

Al Hasse · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:37 pm Post subject:

I was pretty sure your timing chain would be fine. The timing set probably has nylon tips on the gear teeth to make them quiet, the nylon more than likely wore down enough for the chain to slip off the gears. That's what happened with mine at the 200K mile mark. New timing set and you should be fine, these 60* V6 motors are non-interference, so the pistons won't hit any open valves.

91camaro_rs · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:43 pm Post subject:

ok just for assurance...aaron said that i dont have to take the water pump off, and that some bolts hold the water pump to the cover, so what bolts do i leave alone...the small ones?

Al Hasse · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:49 pm Post subject:

You can take the timing cover and water pump off as a unit. Without looking (I'm at work and the V6 car is at home), I couldn't say which bolts to leave, but obviously the ones around the perimeter of the cover come out. Oh...you also need to replace the oil seal on the crankshaft, it's a press fit into the timing cover - be sure to put some oil on it before you slide it over the crank or you'll end up ripping it (ask me how I know Laughing

)

fiveoformula · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:51 pm Post subject:

He's right, you should be able to pull the timing cover with the water pump attached. Leave all the bolts holding the pump to the cover.

91camaro_rs · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:58 pm Post subject:

ok sweet, so i need gears and a chain and an oil seal. do i gotta drain the coolant and the oil?

fiveoformula · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 3:04 pm Post subject:

I know on the V8 you don't loose any oil pulling the timing cover but on the six, I think you'll wanna dump it, and since the water pump is coming off, Id definetly drain the coolant too, unless you like the mess. lol

kurfbird · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:14 pm Post subject: drain the collant

drain the collant. I would change the oil and filter when your done

aaron_sK · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:21 pm Post subject:

Coolant comes out for sure. Oil is a tossup. The 60* motors have a timing chain that's open to the oil pan (an idea Chevy shamelessly ripped off from the FE Ford, BTW Very Happy

). That means that anything you drop (screws, dirt, coolant) ends up in the oil. Personally, I would dump it.

In the FelPro chain cover kit I bought, they recommend cutting the oil pan gasket, and replacing the front section of it. IMHO that's kinda bogus. I hit the bottom of the chain cover with some Ultra Black RTV, and dropped it back down over the cleaned oil pan gasket. Been working fine since.

Al Hasse · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:03 pm Post subject:

Here's a list of parts you should need for the job. I pulled them from the NAPA site, but should be available at most other stores. As for special tools, you'll need a harmonic balancer puller (I have one, but I'll have to look) and a torque wrench (I also have).

Timing set

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NTP&PartNumber=203067&Description=Timing+Set+-+3+Piece

Gaskets, this kit has all that you should need, even the water pump gasket. (I don't see the section for the oil pan in the kit shown though).

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FPG&PartNumber=TCS45828&Description=Timing+Cover+Gasket+Set

Timing cover seal

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NOS&PartNumber=17286&Description=Timing+Cover+Seal

Timing chain damper (if the chain came off, this probably isn't in the best of shape any more)

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NTP&PartNumber=95059&Description=Timing+Chain+Damper

If I missed anything, someone else may chime in.