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Brake line adapting

 
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Leejo2005
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Joined: 12 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:44 pm    Post subject: Brake line adapting Reply with quote

I'm attempting to install a wilwood adjustable prop valve in conjunction with my new rear with disks. I've got a new master cylinder for stock 4 wheel disks and the prop valve. The problem is that the master cylinder has 2 different size fittings and the prop valve uses 3/16-24 all around. How do I go about making a square peg fit in a round hole?
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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You remove the old prop valve.

Cut off the ends of the front brake line to caliper/master lines (3 lines total) and get a double flaring tool and 3 -3/16 line nuts. Put the line nuts on, flare the ends, and insert all 3 into a double inverted flare brass TEE

Same goes for the line from the master to the REAR line of the prop valve. Except you install those 2 lines into the prop valve.

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Al Hasse
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1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Paul said. Ditch the stock valve.

although mine isn't Wilwood, it should look something like this when installed. The master isn't completely in the picture, wasn't the picture's purpose, but the line for the fronts is visible heqading to a tee and the other for the rears goes to the prop valve (mine is SSBC). I have two double flaring tools if you need to borrow one, one's metric, the other SAE.


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Leejo2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did I get the wrong type of prop valve?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/

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Alphius
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to share a story that still shames me every time I look under my hood.

When I was younger (and dumber) I discovered that you can remove the prop rod in the stock valve and plug off the rear input/output and use the stock prop valve as a big, ugly tee of sorts. Then plumb your Wilwood valve in on the rear lines straight from the MC to the brake line.

Although not recommended, it is one of those things that's good enough for the "now". Mine's been this way for over 3 years. Good enough for "now" often ends up this way I hear. Laughing I plan on tee-ing my front brakes soon now that I'm a (little) older and wiser. I need to pick up a flaring tool and get it done.

Moral of the story: buy a d*mn tee and do it right, or you'll be doomed to a life of ugly under your hood. Very Happy

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Leejo2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks much easier to do than what I would have to do to install the one I bought. Also I need to figure out how to hood the flex line from the rear to the hard lines. I know they are different because when I replaced mine I kept getting the wrong one and I eventually just got one from a junk yard.
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Al Hasse
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leejo2005 wrote:
Did I get the wrong type of prop valve?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/


I don't think so. It has a front input and two front outputs, effectively a tee. Also a rear in and out with the knob for adjustability.
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Leejo2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The big issue for me is just adapting the different line sizes as this valve only has 3/16 line fittings for 3/16 lines
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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one you have will take the same amount of work. It just replaces the stock Prop valve and has an adjustable feature. Never used that specific one but it should be fine.

Still need to flare all the ends, and install the proper threaded line nuts.

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Al Hasse
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be easy enough to cut your lines & remove the existing nuts, install the nuts from the valve kit, and flare the lines. Those nuts should fit over your lines.
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Leejo2005
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does anyone happen to know what size and thread the tube nuts are for a third gen master cyl with front and rear disks?
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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use the nuts that are already there for the master.
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hnkajnk
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

now that I'm a (little) older and wiser. I need to pick up a flaring tool and get it done.

Moral of the story: buy a d*mn tee and do it right, or you'll be doomed to a life of ugly under your hood.


Wait a few years Gabe, You'll be using Armor all on your radiator hoses. Laughing Laughing
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Leejo2005
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
Use the nuts that are already there for the master.


The threads on the new master cyl aren't the same as the one that's being removed. My old master is a stock 1983 one with rear drums. Although, I might go see if the junk yard has ones I can get but the real big reason I want to buy my own fittings is that I'm trying to use only 3/16 steel line. I've found a place that has fittings in almost any combination but even after a trip to two part stores and one brake shop nobody has been able to help.

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Al Hasse
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a brand new 2002 Camaro SS master cylinder from the my NAPA store, it came with the reservoir. The same store has brake lines in various lengths with the tube nuts already on them for adapting from one size to another. Even has loose tube nuts to flare onto your lines if need be. The lines I bought had the correct fittings for the master, I didn't care about the other end as I had to shorten the line anyway. After cutting to length, I flared the nuts I bought onto the other end.
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