Cascade Crew

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:17 am Post subject: Bell Housing

My 383 was delivered today. Because it's externally balanced, it came with a 168 tooth flywheel, about 2" more diameter. I called the builder and he said he could balance with the 153 tooth flywheel, but it would be quite involved and expensive. The easiest route would be to get a bell housing from a 4.3 truck, which he said uses the larger flywheel.

So I'm looking for a 4.3l Truck T5 bell housing.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:35 am Post subject:

Hold on.

That 4.3 will not work. It mounts the T5 veritcally, not angled for our cars.

Tell me you didn't have the engine externally balanced?

If it's balanced internally like it's supposed to be, as any modern machine shop would do.... You can buy a 153 tooth flywheel and it SHOULD be neutrally balanced already. IIRC you ended up with a roller version, so your flywheel would work fine. For verification take it to a machine shop and have them verify it's neutrally balanced like it should be. Costs like $40 to have a flywheel neutrally balanced. It is not very involved. Uses the same machine as the crank balancer. Punch in some numbers and hte machine does the rest. Then you drill out some metal if needed.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:05 pm Post subject:

I did ask for a roller motor, which he delivered. The builder told me when I called him about the issue that "because it's a 383 that it's externally balanced" and needs the larger flywheel because it's based on the 400 (which he says are all external balanced) and uses that crank.

In any case, I'm either in need of a new bell housing or do the new transmission a little early also. Or have him rework it to internal balance the motor for quite a bit more money.

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:11 pm Post subject:

Something doesn't seem right with this. They must have reground a 400 crank, instead of using a stroker crank?

I would look closely at your paperwork, did it specify a new crank? If it did, I would not call a reground crank new. No reason in the world to do an external balance on this, it makes it a PIA in a few years if you do a clutch job, and decide you want a new flywheel, then you are hosed again.

May a scatter shield would keep the trans useable with a 168tooth. Also, what clutch are you supposed to use? Is the friction surface right for a stock clutch? Does someone make a matching clutch with the right spline count?

All sorts of questions on this seem WAY off. I would start asking questions, and looking at what you actually bought, and what they actually delivered.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:11 pm Post subject:

YEAH. John's right on it too.

No roller motor came externally balanced, and they didn't make a 1 piece rear main AKA Roller motor 400SBC. So to make a roller 383 you need an after market crank.

OR they did a retro roller kit. What's the valley look like?

Externally balanced motors are kind of a thing of the past. You'd need all your proper weigh specifics to give to a machinest along with the flywheel and pressure plate to get it balanced properly.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:29 pm Post subject:

Problem solved. Originally, I couldn't give him my flywheel to balance the new motor, it was still in the car when he started the build. Now that he has it, he can do what needs done to it, then I'll have the correct smaller diameter flywheel.

Can't tell you what the valley looks like, the intake is already bolted on. I asked for a build sheet which he'll give me when I pick up my flywheel.

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:31 pm Post subject:

I would still be a little gun shy of an externally balanced motor. It just makes it a mess if you upgrade to an SFI flywheel. It also as Paul pointed out, means that it is not a 1peice motor, which likely means retro-roller. Maybe it is time to start really asking them questions before this is all done, instead of waiting for a build-sheet.

--John

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:37 pm Post subject:

And yes, a Lakewood scattershield would fit the 168 tooth flywheel, and has T5 patterns for both S-10 style straight up and F-Body angled.

Another good point. There's no way he could have balanced the motor..... without the flywheel from the get go. If you look at the 168 tooth flywheel, you'll see a LARGE weight pad on it. Plus take a look now, does the engine have a 1 piece seal or not? You can easily tell as the 1 piece seal has a bunch of 10mm head bolts, bolting in a one piece ring.

If not, you have a 2 piece motor and your 153 flywheel WILL NOT work.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:43 pm Post subject:

Could also be using a 1 piece rear main block with a crank adapter to use the 2 piece flywheel.. Except that would mean he couldnt use your flywheel. . All this stuff sounds 15 years ago though. Definatly find out what you've been given. 383s can be built either way.. internal (like mikes) or external. External is old school and comes from using the original 400 cranks instead of an aftermarket 383 crank. External means your balancer and flywheel are married to that motor. To change either you have to get the new one to match the balance.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:06 pm Post subject:

It's a one piece seal. I'll have the flywheel by the weekend if I can get away to go get it.

For now, I'm finding other differences with the Vortec intake. Vacuum fittings are in different locations, EGR sits in front instead of the back. I'm having a little fun routing the fuel lines behind the alternator like the 305. My bag of accessory bolts and studs went with the old motor, I think there were some miscellaneous brackets in there too.

The block has a spot which looks like where an external fuel pump would fit, I need a block off plate for that too, if that's how its done.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:10 pm Post subject:

Double check that block. If its on the passenger side lower and 4 bolts two larger on the bottom and 2 smaller on top you only need a block off plate if there is a hole for the pump pushrod.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:43 pm Post subject:

There is a hole for the pushrod. The larger bolt holes are on top though.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:54 pm Post subject:

Your vortec intake has an EGR? Does it have plumbing for an external exhaust line or something? Because vortec heads dont have the internal exhaust passage required for egr.

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject:

It is. I did a little research and found the port for the EGR tube just above #1 cylinder. Apparently, to have a functioning EGR, I need a tube attached to one of the driver side header tubes and have it run to the intake port.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:56 pm Post subject:

Or since you can tune, just block it off. Wink