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Tie rod question?

 
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5742
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Tie rod question? Reply with quote

So I noticed one of the reason my tires have been wearing funky was that the driver side was toed pretty significantly out. I assume from the accident. Are the drivers and passenger side tie rods equal length? Like, the drivers inner + adjuster + outer = passenger inner + adjuster + outer? My drivers side was almost a full inch longer than passenger. Shocked This isn't supposed to be exact but at least pretty straight for daily'ing until I get a real alignment.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are correct. I just went out to check mine. Outers on both sides, approximately six inches from edge of adjuster to the center of the rod end. For grins, I checked the inners the same way and came up with about the same six inches.
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't really have just one side toe'd in or out. Toe setting is just the difference from the rear to the front of the tire. Then you adjust the left and right sides to get the steering wheel straight. Left and right sides can be completely off with the steering wheel upside down, but the tires will wear fine if the total toe is correct.
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5742
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Wow. That seems obvious if I think about it. I guess I should have said with the steering wheel straight + passenger side wheel straight the driver seems out of kilter. I pulled the driver side outer TRE in about 5 turns and I'll see if that eyeballs out better. I'm really tempted to setup a jig to measure actual toe. Have to level out the new garage though.
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some toe plates I made using 1/4" hardboard. Works really well. Mine look really close to this but I made a cutout on the bottom so the tire bulge doesn't effect the plate.


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86 RS - 7.4L V8 SOLD
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So when you drive the wheel is crooked?

Toe settings will either wear both tires equally or make your steering wheel crooked. If you're wearing just one tire there's another setting out of wack.
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5742
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blue89 wrote:
I have some toe plates I made using 1/4" hardboard. Works really well. Mine look really close to this but I made a cutout on the bottom so the tire bulge doesn't effect the plate.



I'm having a hard time imaging the tire bulge not affecting it. Have pictures so I can understand?

chevymad wrote:
So when you drive the wheel is crooked?

Toe settings will either wear both tires equally or make your steering wheel crooked. If you're wearing just one tire there's another setting out of wack.


Up until today while driving down the freeway it would yank at all the ruts in the road a lot more than before. To the point that changing lanes was a turn hard against, let off, turn hard so I didn't overshoot as I crossed the ruts. With the wheel straight the passenger wheel was straight and the driver wheel kicked out and was wearing a ton more than the passenger.

Today I cranked the drivers side TRE inward about 5 threads and my wheel is a tiny bit crooked but it tracks SO much better. There is almost not tugging when changing lanes now. I just don't know if I went a bit too far or not? Both wheels looked parallel with the car now. (in the dim garage, I'm going to recheck tomorrow)
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see how that wasn't too clear. The bottom middle (horizontally) of the plate is cutout cause the tire bulges there. The middle (vertically) of the tire bulge is consistent enough that I use it to align with. You can also use the string trick. Worked really well with my sentra! Just wrap a string around all 4 tires. Google it.
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Last edited by blue89 on Sun May 02, 2010 7:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We've got an old school setup at work. Couple of turntables so theres no friction on the tires. Then a stick with pointers that stick up about mid tire. Then I simply rub a line down the middle of the tire. (jack rig up, hold something pointed against tire, spin tire to leave mark) Put the stick on the backside of the tires and set both pointers on the lines.. Move stick to front of tires and you can see where your toe is. A tape measure can do it, but usually part of the car is in the way to get a measurement halfway up the tire.
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know if there is an upgrade to the centerlink and tie rod's beside going end links? I'm stiffening my a-arms and noticed my tie rods, idler, and steering box bend and flex an unexceptable amount when you push on the wheels with the steering wheel locked. I have solid tie rod adjusters to put on but I don't see that helping the entire problem.
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5742
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know of any beefier units but is there really that much deflection during forward motion? Even most "racecars" I see only use rod ends...
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the wheel fully drooped when I did it so the tie rods had the best leverage on the centerlink. Just seemed that with a little push in you could see the center link being pushed up cause the arms were deflecting up. I'll try it again tonight with the tie rods level as they would be under normal driving conditions. Still makes me wonder.
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Dewey316
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1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is always deflection. The question is how much, and in which direction.
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is true. I can see that under normal conditions that the road won't have nearly the leverage I did to make the linkage deflect. I'll install my solid couplers and ignore what I saw, for now.

Ian, have you done any steering upgrades to your front yet?
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Dewey316
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Joined: 08 Jan 2004
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Location: Bringing the tech

1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zip tie a video camera down there, and post up the results for us all to see!

Really, at normal ride height, the tie rod and center-link are decently close to parallel, compared to when they are at full droop. Also, the outside tire is the one handling most of the force, which will be under even more compression during cornering.

I really have no idea how much deflection there actually is, I would be really interested to see any actual test you do.

--John
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5742
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dewey316 wrote:
Zip tie a video camera down there, and post up the results for us all to see!


Shocked Do eeeet.

blue89 wrote:
Ian, have you done any steering upgrades to your front yet?


Just solid TRE adjusters. I've currently been on an aero kick. Working on underbelly/ghetto diffuser/splitter. Very Happy

I see you mentioned beefing up your control arms. Is the deflection seen in flexing A-arms more than what you would see from new poly bushings? I mean, would you see better gains by going to a control arm with rod ends or something of the like? (although mucho more expensive-o Sad )
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blue89
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my LT1 car I put in poly bushings and then welded extra metal to stiffen it up. Basically just closed in the bottom of the a-arm. Weither or not it actually did anything, I dunno. Sure does make me feel better.

And it's much cheaper than the fancy tubular arms.
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DBL_TKE
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Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1505
Location: Aloha, OR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iansane wrote:
Dewey316 wrote:
Zip tie a video camera down there, and post up the results for us all to see!


Shocked Do eeeet.

blue89 wrote:
Ian, have you done any steering upgrades to your front yet?


Just solid TRE adjusters. I've currently been on an aero kick. Working on underbelly/ghetto diffuser/splitter. Very Happy

I see you mentioned beefing up your control arms. Is the deflection seen in flexing A-arms more than what you would see from new poly bushings? I mean, would you see better gains by going to a control arm with rod ends or something of the like? (although mucho more expensive-o Sad )


oooh, you have my attention now. Start a new thread with some detailed pictures and specs.

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