Cascade Crew

[alloy]

Anyone here used one of these yet?


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/?rtype=10

As most of you already know, I've got my 13" front brake setup I built and LS1 rear brakes, and I need more power to the rears. The front lock way before the back do. in fact I've never gotten the back to lock and they are working very well. (other than the blown axle seal I found today) I've read about gutting the stock prop valve, but then no metering function after that is done and no warning light.

I considered putting an adjustable valve in the front line to reduce the front braking power, but I'd rather increase the rear braking power instead.

Looks like this valve replaced the stock prop valve, but there isn't really any info on either summits or wilwood's site about it. From what I can see, the adjustable part is for the rear brakes only.

Any thoughts on this?

[iansane]

That looks cool actually. I swapped to an LS1 MC that has the low fluid indicator in the reservoir coupled with a wilwood adjustable prop valve like this one;



My fronts are 100% pressure and just go to a T fitting. That unit seems like you could stick with a standard thirdgen MC while combining the adj prop valve. Much better looking not having a ton of adapter fittings and such!

[alloy]

I already have the 4th gen master with the low fluid sensor and a disk/disk prop valve. It's just the fronts are so much more powerful than the stock ones in a panic stop I just fry the fronts while the back still turn. I want to have them all lock at the same time, or nearly the same time.

If I reduce the fronts I don't think that will solve my problem, I need more power to the rears.

[Twilightoptics]

I've got an SSBC one that works good.

[alloy]

[iansane]

If you already have the fourthgen MC why go with one that complicated? Just get the standard single circuit prop valve and run the fronts full pressure and adjust the rears out to what you want.

[Twilightoptics]

[chevymad]

I think Dan allready has one in just the rears only, but still cant get enough pressure to lock the rear brakes with the fronts. If I understand correctly anyway.

[alloy]

I don't have an adj. valve at all. Just the stock prop valve.

[chevymad]

Ah k. Thought I remembered you plumbing one and read that into this then. I'll butt out.
Paul, Al, and Ian all have experience with this.

[Al Hasse]

I haven't got mine where I want it yet though, or so I found out when a dog ran out in front of me a couple of weeks ago. I locked up the fronts, but not the rears. Maybe I'll go back to square one and start out at full bias by the prop valve and adjust as needed from there. My valve reduces up to 57%, or so I read in the specs.

[Alphius]

I tee'd out my front lines straight from the master and run a Summit brand prop valve on the rear line. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905

I have full adjustability. I get a friend and go to a gravel road and lock my tires up while they are watching and adjust my valve until the fronts lock just a tiny tiny bit before the rears.

[alloy]

I spoke to a Wilwood engineer today and he said this valve isn't the one I need. He suggested gutting the stock prop valve and putting an adj. prop valve in the rear line.

In looking at the stock proportioning valve I see there is a nut on the front and rear of the valve. Looks like there will be a small piston on the front and rear of the valve. I'm going to get a disk/drum valve and gut the rear and install the adj. valve in the back line and give it a try. I don't want to gut the disk/disk valve as they are hard to find and if this doesn't work I want to have it to put back in.

Anyway I'll keep you updated as to how this goes.

[iansane]

When I tried to gut the valve I had issues. I was younger so I may not have been doing it correctly but I had to weld up that nut because the plungers/springs inside fit against the center hole in the nut and it leaked out fluid without the springs and such inside. The springs for the front wouldn't fit and seal inside when the rear spring was removed. I had to pull out the entire thing.

I say ditch the stock combo valve completely.

[alloy]

Well you can use an 5/8"-18. allen plug with teflon tape on it to seal the rear when you pull the stock plug. I'm going to give that a shot first, I'm not keen on replumbing the brake lines when I can just mod the stock valve and ad the adj. one to the rear.

[91RSVert]

Why did the tech not suggest the one above?

Id like to put more to my rears as well. But I dont want to hack all my lines.

[alloy]

He said that was more for full on race cars and not street driven ones.

If you pull the spring and plunger out of the valve end for the rear brakes the pressure isn't regulated down. I've read extensively on TGO and everyone seems to think this is the cure to help get more pressure to the rear brakes. In fact so much they need a adj. prop valve to decrease the pressure so the rears won't lock too soon.

Not much hacking involved, splice the adj. valve into one line and you got it.

[Alphius]

I started with a gutted disc/drum prop valve when I did mine. I just had to put plugs in some of the holes and it never leaked. Worked fine, but it was a little ugly.

I can recommend that path.

[alloy]

I've been doing a little research on this and basically gotten nowhere. Some say that the gutted valve does wonders, other say it makes no difference at all.

So............decided to do this the right way and use a gauge to check brake pressures. Found a gauge on Ebay for $30 and I'm going to plumb it into my back brake line and see what the pressure is. Then gut the back section of a disk/drum valve and add an adj. prop valve and see what the pressure difference is. I can't think of any other way to see if I am getting increased rear brake pressure with the gutted valve.

[Twilightoptics]

I don't see the point of gutting AND adding an adjustable.

Take the stock one off, and add the adjustable. It gets you what you want, and with a 4th gen master with the wire in the reservoir rather than the prop valve you're set on the light too.