Cascade Crew

[DBL_TKE]

Well I've been wanting to autocross for awhile and now I'm considering it more seriously. Can anybody introduce me to this sport? How does everything work, what is included in a tech inspection, what class(s) I would/could run in, any and all fee's, tips, local clubs that put on events, etc.

I'm thinking of going to the Oregon SCCA's Event #6 September 6th @PIR that way I'm already at work when it ends .

[Twilightoptics]

Isn't Car Freaks holding an AutoX on like the 15th or so of August at PIR? From what I hear most AutoX are super happy to have newcomers and if you say it's your first time they'll accomodate you nicely.

[Dewey316]

Its fun, be prepared to work though, you get to shag cones for a couple of hours when you are not driving.

Most people are pretty helpful. If I wasn't working weekends, I would sure go with you. Maybe DAN (Alloy) will chimb in, he is a long time autox'er and a former district champ. He is a great guy to go with (he went with me to my first couple of tries at it, and even let me drive his car!).

Tech inspection is pretty easy, they will check for any loose items, seatbelts, doors, helmet, etc just like at drag racing. They will also check your wheel bearings, so make sure they are tight and don't have any slop. Being your first time, you may try to find an old timer to walk the course with you, and maybe ride with you the first couple of runs.

--John

[DBL_TKE]

Well not CarFreeks but OR-SCCA has an event on the 16th and 17th but those are in Packwood...I'm in Beaverton. Since I will already be going to PIR later on 9/5 I figured I'd attend that one.

So I think it's $25 entry and $15 registration. any other hidden fee's? I'll need a helmet apparently so hopefully they have one I can borrow or maybe I can ask somebody at the drags on Friday if I can borrow one overnight.

[fiveoformula]

are you able to have a friend ride shot-gun after a few with the instructor?
i'll do camera work dude! lol

[blue89]

Typically no, autox is a solo event. If you keep messing up the track you can get an instructor to ride along to help you not miss gates. Other than that you just showing off.

Of the little exposure to autocross site insurance I've had, autocross is not a spectator sport. It is also difficult to get insurance for. Also when you are on course your insurance is pretty null and void. Meaning if you wreck your car the autocross insurance pays to have the site repaired. Not your car. So you don't need insurance to autocross but you need to a have a valid license.

[83Z28BlackBetty]

as far as class goes, you will for sure be in the novice class for the first few times you go. but after that it depends on the modifications you've done to the car. but my philosophy is, who cares what class you are in, you are out there by yourself so it doesn't matter! just try to get the best time you can

if there is any close to seattle sometime i'd love to go out again.

~JAKE

[91RSVert]

Ive done this a few times. Before you leave the house, take out all loose items you can and leave at home. Cds, floor mats, change, ANYTHING BUT your spare, registration, proof of insurance, painters tape, drinks, and something to inflate your tires. It is more crap to have laying around and risk getting damaged/stolen.

Over inflate your front tires a few psi (5'ish). Depending upon your rear, leave alone, maybe over, maybe under? Take some white shoe polish and put in on your tire in 3-4spots where the sidewall rolls to tread. After each run, inspect and adjust pressure to what you want. I ended up running 3 different psi's.

Before the drivers meeting, walk, walk, walk the course. Try and get an experience person to walk with you and discuss options(take it left or right, take it wide here, cut it here, etc). If not, just walk behind someone who is discussing and listen.

Usually here, they will do a slow drive thru for the newbies. Keep your radio off at all times.

Your first run, take it easy and make sure you know the course. Safty first! Then, if you got it right... Next time go out and get more agressive, then more n more tell you loose it. If you got a DNF, have someone ride with you. Most of the time here, the guy who created the track is not driving and is to do ride-alongs.

Other tips:
1. kinda glance at the cone workers while running. If you see them waving a red flag, stop ASAP!
2. Dont get pissed if someone is faster then you. Odds are, there is, and they are in a go-kart.
3. Camcorders are OK to ride ASLONG as they are very securley mounted(or here anyway). Another person holding is not ok.
4. Shotgun spectator is ok here as well, ASLONG as they are 18+ and with a brain bucket.
5. Here they usually have some share helments. You may have to wait on one though.
6. Please keep all hands, arms, legs in the ride at all times.
7. Here they usually require you to drive with the windows down.
8. After the race is over, it is expected you help pick up the cones.

[blue89]

There is a video of me going through a very small course on my video site. Like 91Vert said, GO SLOW your first couple times so you don't mess up. Its easier to go slow than to try to find that gate your missing. And you will stand out the more you help out. Plus if you get all chummy with the officials you can get inside clues and hints about upcoming events and how to run the course better. Chances are there are a few old timers that have autocrossed camaro's before.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1zf64_autocross_auto

[91RSVert]

OH, thought of other things.

hitting cones before start, or after ending timing lights = automatic DNF
doing burnouts or being stupid in the stanging area = kicked off property.


If you want, some of us may be willing to draw up a course, then write notes on it if you want, then post it.

[blue89]

[91RSVert]

Here is the last course I ran. For us, it was quite wide open and a double back course(meaning 2 laps). I hit speeds of around 40'ish in some areas which I have never done before on a x course. Some people said they were hitting 50's

Red is how to drive first lap
Blue is how to drive 2nd lap.

Ask questions if you dont understand something.

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5040/2008080712014648900012jz8.jpg (large image, open in another screen)


tech inspection. Battery must be secure.
When on radio stating a cone was hit, or DNF. Say the car number as well (for our area anyway, we usually have 2 cars running at once).

[91RSVert]

O yea, DNF means "did not finish".

You get this under one of these situations
1. You hit a timing light
2. You hit a cone before the start timing light
3. You hit a cone after the end timing light
4. You miss a "gate" and are off course (most common one)
5. You give up mid course due to you get pissed or car gets damaged.

[blue89]

lol, a couple years ago in Everette i watched a C5 corvette owner come in too hot, lost control, and slide sideways into the timing light reflector box. Needless to say I thoroughly stomped his time. Power is nothing without control.

[91RSVert]

on that map I just posted. A guy in a mita came in to make the loop for the 2nd lap and slid sideways taking out some cones and the timer light.

Yea, he got DNF'd.

Ive seen a double cab silvy SS take out the starting trigger taking off(it had a sharp 90 right when you start )

[DBL_TKE]

Thank you guys for all the excellent information.I'm definitely going to have fun and at least I know what I'm doing now. Thanks again.

[DBL_TKE]

So I went to the Autocross on Saturday and I had a absolute blast. I got there early since I was told that my car would run in the PM group by some fellow autoX friends. I watched how everyone tackled the course and tried to get a feel of the course layout.

During tech they almost didn't let me run becuase I have a bungee holding my battery in place. I discussed it with him tech inspector to tech inspector. then when they were checking my drivers rear bearing there was a knocking noise coming from somewhere. I have a feeling it was the LCA, after they discussed it amongst themselves they decided that it was normal.

Originally I was going to just run T/O's but someone there said I should run F/Stock. I talked to tech about it and they said that my car fit into the category and that it would be fine.

you weren't kidding when you said they most people walk the course pretty fast. lol. I did find a semi experienced guy and he gave me some pointers on the first walk around, then I walked the second lap myself and totally focused on trying to remember the course. When I get a chance I'll upload the course map. Everyone I talked to said that it was a great course but really confusing. It managed to take you around the same gate three different times and in three different directions. this course was definitely set up for Miata's and mini's. Right off the starting line it made an unfriendly 90* turn then the first turn was greater that 90*. There was a part of the course where you had to loop 180* around a cone barrel racing style. it was interesting trying to figure out how the get my car around that cone in the best fashion.

On my first run I managed to miss a gate. Like I said, the course was really confusing.

1st run: 68.958 OC
2nd run: 62.424
3rd run: 64.149 1 cone (that's a 2 sec penalty right?)
4th run: there was a timing malfuntion som I got a rerun
5th run: 59.806 (both my 4th and 5th runs felt the same)

There were 4 or 5 people running in F/stock and I placed second.

One of the cars that was not faster than me was a '06 Shelby GT with hoosiers. and yes he was experienced. The car that was faster than me was a 4th gen SS. I learned a lot about how my car likes to handle. Initial turn in is nothing but understeer when at 9/10's. Mid turn my car feels pretty neutral, I was steering with the throttle. Then on corner exit I had to fight oversteer.

I am definitely hooked. this is the last event to be held at PIR and Packwood is just a wee bit too far for my budget but this is something that I definitely want to get more involved with next year. The problem is, however, I want to also be semi competitive in Sportsman bracket racing as I'm going to participate in that next year as well.

I do not plan on having my current car next year. What I plan on having is an 87-92 IROC-Z or Z28 with T-tops a 350, manual transmission, and lowered. I know that I wouldn't be able to run F/S so what would my choices be then?

[blue89]

Congrats on kicking butt! No F-stock with springs? You may want to check the local rulebook. You might be able to change that and remain in stock. If you could find some 16x8's that would be helpful too. And larger stock swaybars. A wonderbar helps a little too. Those three things are still stock items so you should be able to run them in F-stock. Best bet would be to get a rule book and talk to the other people to see what you can do.

And get your battery bolted down!

www.wwscc.org

This is the largest AutoX club in washington I believe. Register with the forum and check it out.

[DBL_TKE]

Well I found and read the 2008 SCCA Solo rule book online in PDF format and there are a lot of things that are open to interpretation. that's cool but it will get me DQ'd from a class in the long run most certainly. Being around bracket racers all the time has led me to push the rules to the limit.

Based on what I'd like to do to my car in order to be satisfied with it I don't have a chance at running in Stock. Would a ST or SP class be too competitive?

I definitely need to get a rule book. There are a lot of little things that I don't know if I can change. BTW I'm in Oregon so I'd be running ORSCCA events.

Transmission or engine swap: Would it send me strait to Modified Even if it's stock? Or would a L98 in place of an LB9 be considered stock replacement and allow me to run in SP?

Subframe connectors: I am really uncomfortable with the fact that when i enter a driveway at an angle, I can literally see the body twist from inside. somebody said they might be legal if there is no X brace, or would that put me in street modified?

Drop spindles: out of the question as well? I guess I'd want lowering springs anyway as that will allow for more negative camber.

what size wheels are legal? I'd keep the stock wheels as back ups because I like them but I'd also want a set of ZR1's or C5 Z06's. possible?

can I change the intake to a HSR and still be in SM?

Here's a new list of things I'd like to do:
lowering springs, good shocks, adjustable camber plate, strut tower brace, custom cold/ram air. smog delete, True dual exhaust or 2055's and SLP LM2 with no cat, functional hood louvers, 3.73 gears, Spohn+Alston SFC's, LCA relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar, adjustable brake proportioning valve, HSR, self tune. grant steering wheels, racing seats, 4/5 point harnesses., brake ducting,

So I am allowed to change the cam but not the heads? can I get Vortec heads? Am I allowed to do anythign to the rear end so it doesn't blow up drag racing? 1LE brakes? LS1/ corvette brakes? fiberglass hood? rocker arms? head porting? valve springs? Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, higher pressure injectors?

I'm not sure what's allowed by updating/backdating. is it just 3rd gen, model specific (Z28, IROC-Z) or just Camaro in general (4th gen)

now, of course, this is in the very long run but I just want to get an idea of what class I'd be getting myself into here.

[blue89]

You'll have to just read through the rules. Cages are a safety device so you can always run them, but subframe connectors are only for frame stiffening so they usually push you to street prepared/modified.

My take on Stock class is this: If its a stock item, you're still in stock! So since you can get 16x8's, any 16x8 is fine. Plus I think the rules allow 1" wider than stock, so 9" wide is okay. Motors are free game if its stock for that chassis. Seperately updating heads/block is probably to avoid unfair compression ratio's. Closed chamber heads on open chamber pistons kinda stuff. But if its stock for that body style (82-92) then its totally legit to put it on.

Like you said too, if you run in a class, push all the rules to your benefit. If you don't, someone else will and they'll win. So don't do ONE mod that puts you in the next higher class, do all of them.