Cascade Crew

Al Hasse · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:44 pm Post subject: E-brake and other problems

After getting everything all buttoned up with the rear end and steering stuff, I took the car slowly around the block to make sure everything works OK. I found that the right rear tire rubs on the e-brake cable and need to figure out how to re-route it or get one a bit shorter.

The motor is giving me codes 15 and 54. 15 is the coolant temp sender voltage too high (this is a rather new sender). 54 is got me confused, it's low fuel pump voltage, or fuel pump relay, or EGR solenoid #2 failure, or quad driver module (QDM) output failure, or mixture control (M/C) solenoid circuit voltage too high.

I don't think I have but one EGR solenoid and I don't know what quad driver module is or mixture control solenoid, which leaves me with the fuel pump circuit to check out.

chevymad · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:56 pm Post subject:

Those are codes for every kind of engine out there. Voltage or relay are probably the ones that apply to you. Quad drivers are the transistors that fire various ecm controlled components. Such as injectors. And the m/c solenoid only applies to carbed engines.

On the trip to canada I was fighting an EGR code. Turned out it was the other code definition which was barometer. So you got to find the right definition.

Which sender did you replace? The ecm temp sender, fan sender, or gauge sender? Only the ecm sender will set the code. You have software for datalogging right? What temp does it say? Did you replace the connector with the sender? Some are even sold with a new connector because they have a habit of going bad.

Al Hasse · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:04 pm Post subject:

I haven't replaced anything yet, but the coolant temp sender is a newer piece on this motor from a few months ago. I'm beginning to think these were from having the car sitting without running the motor. I have it idling in the driveway now without any codes showing, so maybe a false alarm Confused

I still have the brake cable to deal with, it badly needs adjusting, but has to wait until I reroute or get a different cable.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:08 pm Post subject:

If you don't route the cable right it can rub. Usually on the rear end there are little spot welded "clips" if you will that just bend over the cable for the passenger cable IIRC. The drivers side cable just gotta be clever with the routing.

Are these still drum brakes? If so... adjust the start wheel so that the drum just slides over. Shouldn't have to force it, but it should have a little drag. That's all the adjustment you need.

Al Hasse · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:14 pm Post subject:

No these are the discs. The passenger side caliper leads and the driver side trails. The driver side was easy as it had the clip on top of the axle. The passenger side seemed a bit long. I'll have to see if I can get it on the inside of the control arm, or somehow tie it to the axle so it's away from the tire.

From what I've read on these, they auto adjust somewhat just by operating the handle, then with new pads, you have to screw the piston back in with a special tool. I still need to get to the adjuster/splitter bracket over the drive shaft and tighten it up a bit.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:06 pm Post subject:

I've always been able to depress the caliper with a c-clamp.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:15 pm Post subject:

I was going to try a 1/4 " spacer on the rear wheels, but I didn't have enough stud to use one. I ended up undoing the control arm from the axle and rerouting the cable to the inside of the control arm. Then I found a zip-tie with an eye on the end for a screw and secured it up under the body to the heat shield for the rear seat. Now there is almost 2 fingers worth of clearance between the tire and the brake cable. Now a little more adjustment and some driving to settle the cut springs and an alignment (not necessarily in that order).