Cascade Crew

[aaron_sK]

Hopefully I'll be swapping my cluster to Autometers sometime in the next couple of weeks. I'm not quite sure what senders I'll need for the gauges? Can I use stockers?

-For the speedo I should be able to run raw VSS signal from the T56.
-For the tach, can I splice it into the IP harness?
-For the fuel guage I'm hoping I can use the stock sender, since mine more or less works.
-Voltometer works fine, can I reuse the stock sender for this?

-The temp sender was completely broken off by the previous owner, who installed a cheapo mechanical gauge, which I then broke rewiring under the dash. Can I snag a JY sendor, or would I be better buying an Autometer sender off of Summit?

-My oil pressure was always a little off (60psi @ idle). But after I deleted the oil cooler it's stuck at off-scale high. Same question as the temp gauge, better to replace with stock sender, or Autometer?

[Al Hasse]

Think about this. The sender translates what it senses to something the gauge can display. You're better off going with the Autometer sender to ensure and accurate reading. That's why most aftermarket gauges come with their own senders.

I used the temp and oil pressure senders supplied with my Dakota Digital gauges, VSS for the speedometer, the tach signal comes from the coil (tapped from the instrument panel harness), volt meter just takes a 12V input and the fuel gauge was calibrated for the 90 ohm sender in the tank.

[aaron_sK]

Okay, so only those two? Cool.

Does anyone know if the TPI tach is based off of the coil, or the dizzy, or what? I've never messed with mine since it's actually been pretty accurate since I bought the car.

[Xophertony]

it uses one of the wires coming off your stock coil. the wire fed by the Ignition Module. it connects at the coil, but rely it's coming from the ICM. so the short answer is distributor. just use the wire that already goes to your tach. it should be white. if you cannot find it, or have and aftermarket dizzy/coil installed run a new wire from one of the WHITE wires on your coil. )factory there should be two, one from ICM to coil, one from coil to tach)

if this helps:
it comes in to the car on pin D6 of connector c100. that is the connector near the brake booster that goes through the firewall. it is pin 1 on connector C1.
fuel gauge is the pink wire at pin 2 on C2. if the Camaro ones are the same as the fire bird ones.

[Twilightoptics]

[aaron_sK]

Yeah, my ignition is completely stock, so I should only need these two:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D2242

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D2258

Sounds pretty good to me. I was worried I might have to pick up a lot more sensors.

[Twilightoptics]

Those look right. Might try calling autometer or looking on their site for sure with our gauge part numbers too make sure you get the right senders for the gauge.

[aaron_sK]

Okay, I'll wait till i have the gauges in-hand and I can check the numbers. UPS is taking their sweet time with my stuff because of the holiday.

[blue89]

btw, I have the same speedometer in my LT1 car and I've calibrated mine. It helps to have walkie talkie's and someone with a digital odometer. Really easy to setup. For some reason I got a 100000 pulse/mile signal, but it works fine (thats the limit for the speedo). I really like the speedo, very niace.

[Twilightoptics]

[aaron_sK]

Paul, you can run it straight off the raw VSS signal without any buffer or any of that crap, right?

[Twilightoptics]

[aaron_sK]

Okay thanks. I already pulled the cruise out of the car, and I have the VSS signal going through the SGI box and into the ECM, so I'm not worried about either of those.

UPS still says Monday morning for the delivery.