Cascade Crew

DBL_TKE · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:11 am Post subject: Fabricated strut mounts

So I have a spare strut mount thanks to Al, I'm using it as a template to make myself a new pair that will be 2" taller than stock. I'm having the strut mount designed in Solidworks and I'm having the base plate cut by our water jet guy that we use through my work. Since I'm going through the trouble to do all this I'm contemplating making a few extra sets if anyone would be interested in them. They will be made out of 304 stainless and TIG welded. The finish will most likely be brought to a gray wheel finish or DA'd. Welds will either be left exposed or completely blended. This is still in the design phase so they are a ways out from being made but I just wanted to get some other input. What, if any, design changes would you like to see? They are being based off of the Founders strut mounts.

Dewey316 · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:40 am Post subject:

by far the hardest part of the strut mount build and design in the bearing. Since you have to run a spherical bearing in lateral loading. The bonus is that the larger force on the mount should be in rebound, since the spring will take a lot of the energy during compression.

are you going to spec it for press mount bearings? making them with an easily replaceable bearing will go a long ways, from experiance I can tell you that it will wear the bearings eventually.

You might also want to do the math on caster/camber with the rise and see if you need to make a slight adjustment to get the range you want.

Other than that, I will tell you it is a nice upgrade, and as low as your car is, the raised mounting will be a nice upgrade for you, but you will lose some caster over the factory mount unless you build extra adjustment in.

Al Hasse · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 2:21 pm Post subject:

If he follows the basic design of the Founder's mount he got from me, there is extra caster adjustment at the bearing mount on top.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:16 pm Post subject:

What I've found with my own founders strut mounts when doing an alignment is that there's more than plenty of adjustment available in the camber plate itself. It's the strut tower opening that is the limiting factor.

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:42 pm Post subject:

Are you planning on clearancing the hole at the top of the strut tower then?

On another note: what are you planning to do with the master cylinder?

DBL_TKE · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:08 pm Post subject:

There's only so much material in the strut tower before you get into the caster slots but yes I will do a little clear. I plan to swap to a 4th gen master cylinder and reservoir to get a little more clearance. If that doesn't get me enough room I may modify the way the bearing mounts for my own personal set.

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:12 pm Post subject:

The fourthgen master won't help much, if at all. Take a look at mine, noting that I am running about zero camber right now:

You are going to have additional problems because your mounts will be taller and you can already see how tight I am to the bottom of the reservoir.

I think ultimate issue is that if you go low enough the ideal upper location of the strut itself is going to be into the master, regardless of how the bearing is mounted.

A manual brake swap would solve all these problems, but the question is do you want to destroy your knee for the sake of destroying your ass. Laughing

iansane · Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:09 pm Post subject:

Alphius · Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:00 am Post subject:

I have noticed the strut body definitely interferes with the opening in the tower before anything else, so I am running as much caster as I can without hitting that issue and without clearancing the body of the car.

As Aaron said, you will hit the master cylinder pretty quick if you are trying to raise the strut mount and maintain negative camber. A divorced reservoir might be a more workable solution than manual brakes, but you will have to do some measuring and some math to make sure you don't raise the mount high enough to interfere with the body of the master cylinder before you get enough camber into it.

You do have more room with a lowered car to add camber before hitting the master cylinder, keep in mind that Aaron's is that close at 0 camber because his car rides like a 4x4. Laughing

Mine's not quite that close and I run -1 camber and a ton of caster, but my car is much much lower than Aaron's.

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 5:04 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 1:48 pm Post subject:

I was wondering about the height too.

I have spohns, and the biggest thing I dislike about them is the c-clip holding the bearing in. I wish it was compressed between 2 pieces of steel, and them bolted together.