Cascade Crew

popballz · Last edited by popballz on Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

Please help me with code 45! 1987 trans am. 305 tpi

code 45 is "Oxygen sensor rich"

i have replaced:
mass air flow sensor,
o2 sensor,
air filter,
whole exhaust(no cat anymore) headman hedders/dynomax catback,
coolant temp sensor(the one directly under intake and a temp sensor down below on pass side),
spark-plug wires(i have e3 spark plugs),
coil,
fuel filter,
all vacuum lines i could follow,

what else should i check or replace? i don't know where to look from here.

it is intermediate too, one minute it will idle perfect and then it will go crappy again

a little video of it in action Mad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xz-uL6K_7J0
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*in the middle I was holding it at about 800rmp, that wasn't the car itself

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:06 am Post subject:

When you replaced the plugs did you read the old ones? If one or more of them was black you could have an injector stuck open.

*Edit: Wait a minute... I remember what you last question here was:

http://cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8643

Pokey pokey

popballz · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:49 am Post subject:

IROCDave · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 1:25 pm Post subject:

Pull the plugs and see if they are wet, atleast on the drivers side. While you have them out, take all four, put them in a bag, walk outside the house and find the big gray thing. Toss them in it and buy a decent sent of plugs.

I have never been a fan of gimmicks and thos plugs are based off of an old gimmick. My brother brought a set over and was raving about them. Any one remember Spilt Fires? Atleast those were made in the US. E3's say China right on em and they look like it.

popballz · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 2:18 pm Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:50 pm Post subject:

When I saw E3 I thought something similar but was keeping quiet. It may not be your problem though. All you need is a good copper core plug. Autolite, AC delco or my current favorite NGK. Anything more and I think you're wasting money. Now on a more modern motor that won't see a set of plugs but every 100k miles, then a good double platinum/iridium is the answer.

And why does the phrase "code 45" make me think cheap malt liquor?? Very Happy

izcain · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:52 pm Post subject:

I like NGK plugs they tend to be easier to read but that is maybe just me.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:15 pm Post subject:

NGK -> Autolite or AC Delco -> Gimmicky BS ----------------> Bosch Rolling Eyes

Just my two cents.

Dave is correct, you need to read plugs. If all the plugs are dark that means a general rich condition. If only one or a few are dark it means a cylinder-specific problem.

izcain · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:20 pm Post subject:

Do you have a diagnostic chart to go off of?

izcain · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:27 pm Post subject:

Have you taken a fuel pressure reading?

Have you checked TPS voltage? Intermittent TPS can cause this.

Also people find that EMI or induced electrical "noise" has can cause this on the No. 453 ground circuit (Ignition system reference low). The additional pulses result in a higher then acual engine speed causing the ecu to throw more fuel at it then needed. Normally a goofy tachometer shows up as well though and that can be a telltale sign of this problem.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject:

Cracked reluctor wheel in the distributor perhaps? That will also cause extra injector pulses.

popballz · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:09 pm Post subject:

i'll start tomorrow by pulling some plugs and seeing what they are showing

chevymad · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:11 pm Post subject:

They usually just crack from rust and age.. and gm building them cheap. It's hard to see if they're cracked though without disassembling the entire distributor. Almost easier to slip a known good one in and see if its better.

popballz · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject:

popballz · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:46 pm Post subject:

i would like to add that the engine idles perfect once the engine light comes on.

when the engine light comes on, done the ecm:
a)go into a safe mode (figuratively-i don't know how it works)
or
B) stop trying to fix the fuel mixture

I'm just trying to get some information to understand my problem a bit more

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:06 am Post subject:

SES light on means limp home mode.

Sounds like you have a sensor fubar if it runs crappy before the light comes on. Start unplugging sensors when the light is off.

Autolite spark plugs were the best plug I could buy for my 330hp 350.

Those cheap 1 wire o2's are crap.

Check the plugs first.

chevymad · Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:42 pm Post subject:

As Paul says.. sensor if it runs poor with the light off, and better with it on. The reluctor I was talking about would run poor both ways, so probably not it.

popballz · Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:30 pm Post subject:

alright thanks guys, i now have some stuff to tinker with!

edit:
is http://obd1.com/ the cheapest place to buy the cable to datalog?
would this be an easy problem to diagnose if i was able to datalog?

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:50 am Post subject:

EGR stuck open?

popballz · Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:27 pm Post subject:

ok i got some datalog info. i dont really know what i am looking at besides that i noticed my "blm" is at like 108 when i read it was suppose to be like 128.

can someone look over my datalog file? i used datamaster because i couldnt get tuner pro to datalog.

quick screen shot