Cascade Crew

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 3:05 pm Post subject: No start, no spark

Well I went out to my car this morning with plans to go to a meet and my Camaro wouldn't start. This is the first time I've ever had any issues with the car since I've had it. The engine cranks, there's fuel at the rail but there's no spark. I didn't get to investigate further because I had no tools with me and i was at a friends house but I was pretty surprised by this. I'm kind of wondering if it could be a VATS issue but I can't remember if that cuts spark or fuel. Anyway, I'm not happy with the situation. My GTI wasn't in a drive able state either so I had to go get that running so I could at least have a car to drive before I diagnosed the Camaro.

chevymad · Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 3:48 pm Post subject:

Without doing any testing ... I'll guess ignition module..

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 4:38 pm Post subject:

I second the module. Without looking at anything. Our cars love to burn them out.

91camaro_rs · Posted: Sat May 18, 2013 5:46 pm Post subject:

i agree, ignition control module, ive been through like 5 haha

alloy · Posted: Sun May 19, 2013 10:49 am Post subject:

That's why I have a spare module in my car along with the tools to change it.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 1:54 pm Post subject:

It's not the ICM or the coil. There's no spark coming from the coil still after replacing it.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 1:59 pm Post subject:

How did you isolate the ICM?

Need to verify good 12v power to the positive side of the coil.

Need to verify negative side of coil is grounding while cranking.

If no ground, then need to check pick up coil and wheel for function (since you've already replaced the ICM I assume?)

No need to have replaced the coil unless you've verified it's getting the proper power/ground to fire.

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 1:59 pm Post subject:

Is there power to the coil?

91RSVert · Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:07 am Post subject:

vats cuts the starter for sure. So if the starter was turning, its not vats.

Dunno if its cuts spark also.

chevymad · Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 6:21 am Post subject:

Disconnecting the timing connector should leave the distributor creating the spark on its own. Then only the pickup, module, and coil need to work to make spark. A test light hooked to the negative side of the coil will flash when the engine is cranked if the pickup and module are good. Flash but no spark = change coil.

If you disconnect the timing connector and you still don't have spark now, either the distributor isn't spinning.. or the pickup is bad. Or as mentioned.. there's no power at all to it.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:48 pm Post subject:

I disconnected the EST wire and checked voltage from the black connector that leads from the ICM to the coil. No signal while cranking. There is a signal from the white connector leading to the wiring harness though. So this means that either my new ICM was bad out of the box or that my pick-up coil is toast, correct?

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:02 pm Post subject:

Not sure which wires are which. You want the negative side.. believe that's the white wire. You have a flashing signal on that wire? If so the distributor is working(est disconnected) if not then module or pickup are toast.. or the rotor's not spinning. A non signal will be steady on. If the light is off completely you don't have power to the coil or coils shorted.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:45 am Post subject:

I don't have a test light only a DVOM, but I get no signal on the negative wire from the ICM, 0V. The rotor is spinning. All my ignition components were replaced with new parts when I got the car so this is a little frustrating.

MrMike98 · Member Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton

pink wire at coil should be +12v when ignition is in run or start,,.

white wire at coil is the gnd lead that is pulsed by the HEI module inside dist..

so if u have +12 and the wht leed is pulsing then all is ok up to coil...

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:40 pm Post subject:

Buy test light. Dvom won't read fast enough.

And stop checking at the icm. Do you have a breakout harness? I doubt it. So stop puncturing the wires.

Do what we've said. Check at the coil with a light.

Use the dvom to ohm the pickup after you've checked at the coil. Did you check power yet like instructed? Seems like were going in circles here. .. this should take no more than 10 min to diagnose.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:32 pm Post subject:

No circle going on. I had indeed checked and verified for 12v power to the coil, I thought I mentioned that. I never puncture wires to test anything, I do have access to breakout harness' but I hardly ever need to use on, it's easier and quicker to just back probe a connector. I had already checked at the coil, it was the first thing I did before I checked anything else. No signal there so I went further upstream to the ICM. No signal there either so that leaves the pickup coil. I ohm tested it and it was bad. Warrantied the distributor and now everything is fine.