Cascade Crew

[Dewey316]

when you go back to get wires, take the module with you, and have them test it.

[kidcamaro]

i put a new module on after i took the old one off. it was coroded really bad also. it looked like the wires/cap/rotor and module are the factory ones. i put the new wires and module on. still nothing. im think its a fuel problem now. i might get a fuel pressure gauge and see what it comes up with. whats the range it should be?

[Dewey316]

it should be around 40-45psi. If you are as low, as say 35, it should at least run. if you are lower than that, i would start to worry.

Have you gotten spark at all, with the new stuff?

[kidcamaro]

i was gonna check that after i get some food in me. will i be able to see the spark even a bit during the day? or should i wait till tonight to try that again?

[Dewey316]

if your in the shade, you should be able to see something.

just lick yer fingers, you'll know if theres spark

[kidcamaro]

lol. well atleast if i did that my hair wouldnt stand on end cuz i aint got none. lol ill see if my wife can hold up a blanket and give it some shade when she gets home for lunch.

[kidcamaro]

well i got my wife to try and crank it over while i put a towel over my head to create some darkness. she cranked it and there was still no spark from the coil. could it be possibly the distributor? i have changed the wires/cap/rotor and now the ignition module.

[chevymad]

It can be the Pickup coil in the distributor yet. Its a wire bobbin like thing that plugs into the ignition module. Also try to start the car with the timing connector disconnected. Just like if you were going to time it. This should eliminate the computer and its wiring from the rest of the ignition. If it doesnt start with the timing connector disconnected, since you've allready replaced the coil and ignition module, its most likely the pickup coil. Just make sure you are getting power to the coil first before you change it. Have a test light? Check for 12v at the + wire on the coil(heavy pink). If you have power there good. Next hook the light to the tach or -neg side of the coil(small white wire i think). Light should flash when you crank. If it doesnt, i'd change the pickup now. You have to pull the distributor and take it apart to change the pickup.

[kidcamaro]

if i got a new dist, do they come with a new pick up coil? i was lookin at the one in there and it looks like ass. looks kinda rusty on the inside. which wires are the timing connectors? are they the ones that plug into the outside of the module?

[kidcamaro]

ok im a tard. lol when i tested the wire goin to the coil i forgot to turn the key on. i got power to all 4 wires. none of them blink. they are just a solid light. do those wires that come out of there go to the pick up coil? if so that might be the problem. is there anyway to check the pick up coil without removing the distr? if not would it be easier just to replace the distr? im not good at takin stuff like apart. i also still have no spark out of the coil wire. i checked it again now that it is dark outside. im at a total loss here.

[kidcamaro]

i was told by a friend to check and see if the rotor is turning. if not then either timing chain broke or the distr is fubared. hopefully ill get a chance to check that tonight. i just checked if the rotor turns and it does. so atleast that is out of the way.

[chevymad]

With the timing connector disconnected there is only the pickup coil, module, and coil to make spark. You should have power on all those wires, and if the rotors turning(good idea), then it should blink the light on 2 of them. Since you've changed the coil, and module that just leaves the pickup, and yes, they do come with a new distributor. One last possibility, thought its rare. I think Dan(alloy) had a problem once with the ground on the back of the head not making contact. Something to check maybe.

[kidcamaro]

my friend from work come over and looked at it for a few mins for me. he looked at the distr and said change it. theres rust in there. somehow moisture got in there i guess. i guess ill change that on the weekend. which head is the ground at? ill check that out too. but im still gonna buy the distr cuz this one looks bad. thanks for all the help guys.
ill post a pic of the distr after i get the new one in. lol

[alloy]

Ok, yes I did have a prob with a ground wire and it was a mother to find. To check it, on the back left cylinder head you will find 2 tan wires crimped togehter and bolted to the back of the head. Make sure the nut is tight. If it is, take the wire off and look at it with a magnifying light check the crimped connection very carefully. The nut was tight on mine, but the connector was corroded and not getting a good connection. The car would not start at times, and if it did would jump and buck. But, like Brandon said, take off the timing wire off and that drops the computer out of the picture. If it starts then, you could have a bad computer, or several other problems.

My distributor was also rusty inside, but not that bad after I checked it carefully. I just took the shaft and cleaned it on a fine wire wheel and looked for cracks. I found none, so I re-used the dist. So don't be so quick to put a new dist in if all you find is a little rust. The metal was not coated so it will rust, but cracks are what you are looking for. There are also no moving parts on the dist shaft, unlike the older dist with centrifical advance. Also DO spend $5 on a Mr. Gasket set of dist shims and got the end play down to about .005. You will have the shaft out anyway, so do yourself a big favor here. I'll bet your end play is at 1/8" (.125) or more now. Getting the end play down will help your car run better with more stable timing and not let the dist shaft work up and down and mess up your oil pump shaft. I could easily see how mine had been working up and down creating an irregular wear pattern.

The pick up coil on my car had corroded connectors also, and I could see no way to clean them properly, so I put in a new pickup coil (around $12 at the Zone) You have to pull the dist and shaft to change it, so this is why I say invest in the shims now. If you have not pulled a dist before, let either me or Brandon know and we can talk you through it. You will need a timing light though after you get the dist back in to set the base timing. It's not to difficult if you do it correctly if you get the engine in the right position before pulling the dist. (#1 at TDC on the compression stroke) If you don't, it will be much harder and much more work. So please ask before pulling the dist.

Dan

[kidcamaro]

there wasnt just a little rust. there was a lot. it was coated in there. ill check the ground before i buy it though. there was lots of rust residue that was in there also.

[alloy]

Well mine looked really bad also, but cleaned up easily. Just clean it and look for cracks. If you find no cracks re-use it. You will save yourself a lot of money this way.

[Twilightoptics]

[kidcamaro]

well i got a new distr today. i was gonna try and clean the old one but i dont wanna have to worry about the car leavin me stranded again. im gonna pull the other one and put the new one in tomorrow. any tips would be helpful, as i havent changed one before. thanks in advance.

[kidcamaro]

well i changed the distr over and it started fine. i checked the timing and it looked like it was dead on. so i took it for a test drive and took the old one in for the core charge. i was just about home and then the motor started makin a loud knocking noise.i played with the timing a bit more but it didnt go away. it seemed like it lost power when the knocking started. it gets louder when i accelerate. could it be a lifter or something like that?

[Twilightoptics]

When you set the timing, were you sure to unplug the ecm wire so you set base timing? If not, you're way too retarded (timing not brain hehe).