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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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 Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:21 pm Post subject: Part 4: You guys, seriously, you guys! |
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I'll bet you thought I had completely stopped my project and had just been pushing it in and out of the shop to work on other Crew cars and more important things... and up 'til last weekend you would have been right. 
But no more of that nonsense! We're back and slogging through the hard boring stuff like it's going out of style.
Stop! It's stopping time!
Hurst Roll Control in the front, Wilwood proportioning valve to the back. Fourth gen master cylinder. Factory proportioning valve in the scrap bin where it belongs: 
I am not at all happy with the flares on the lines. At no point is the factory line ever truly straight and as such it is damn near impossible to get a perfectly square flare on any of them. That said I had no leaks first time so we shall see.
BTW, before Jon points it out, I am aware that the Wilwood valve is lacking a bracket. and is only suspended by the line I have one cut it's just sitting on the bench. 
I installed the rest of the brake system tonight. Al, I am not sure what those lines you gave me came off of, they had different chassis-side threads but the same (wrong for my car) threads on the tee'd end. Regardless they would not work and since the junkyard closes at dark I drove to the Lakewood O-Really's for a Chinese line.
In more exciting news this is also a thing:
Had to perform minor surgery on the headlight bar, but no biggie:
Airflow much?
At some point I will probably replace the Gorilla tape on the brackets with some actual bolts.
I did not get a picture of it but the bottom of the intercooler is sitting on the radiator support where the condenser would be if this were a woman's car. That means I can use the factory Z28/IROC-style air dam.
If someone fancies themself a fluid dynamics engineer tell me this: Is there going to be any issue running the vanes of the intercooler and radiator at different planes (i.e. intercooler is leaning forward, radiator leans back)? Is it going to be some crazy flow issue that I'm not accounting for?
Also, before some wiseass points it out, yes, I am aware that the hood latch assembly is not installed. I have a really good plan for that, and I'll get right on it tomorrow. 
Stay tuned, kids. More to come! |
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Dewey316
The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 7295
Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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You probably don't want to lean the radiator too far back, leaning forward is ok, then the heat rising will natualy wnat to move air in the same direction. I am no expert, but I think you will be alright though.
execpt maybe those wimpy intercooler inlet/outlets what size are those 2" or 2.5". I thought you were going to make some serious HP?!? |
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aaron_sK
Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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The radiator is in the factory position, it's a touch farther back due to it's larger width (dual core aluminum) but the same basic angle.
Inlet/outlets are 2.5", core is 3.5". Intercooler builders (ETS, same place that did Kyle's) told me not to worry about 3" pipe until I wanted to take it above 750 horse.  |
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Dewey316
The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 7295
Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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| ETS does good stuff. I was just giving you crap, didn't you notice the smiley faces. |
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BluFbdy
Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Posts: 915
Location: Port Orchard WA
1989 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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Hold up... did I miss something here? When did all this happen?
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If you expect a kick to the balls and get a slap to the face its still a victory
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aaron_sK
Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Dewey316 wrote: | | ETS does good stuff. I was just giving you crap, didn't you notice the smiley faces. |
Oh I know, buddy. What size charge pipe does the car that cannot be dyno'ed run, anyhow? 
| BluFbdy wrote: | | Hold up... did I miss something here? When did all this happen? |
It's been happening for nearly two years now! |
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BluFbdy
Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Posts: 915
Location: Port Orchard WA
1989 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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For fear of sounding like an idiot is this the same car you had in the garage when I swung by last? The bandanna ride?
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If you expect a kick to the balls and get a slap to the face its still a victory
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Dewey316
The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 7295
Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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| aaron_sK wrote: | | Oh I know, buddy. What size charge pipe does the car that cannot be dyno'ed run anyhow? |
2", lol. That is the same size as the turbo inlet and outlet on the little K26, figured no need for more. Looking at intercoolers though, I will likely be getting an intercooler with a 2.5 intet/outlet since that seems to the common size. Since the inlet to the TB and turbo outlet are both 2" though, I don't really see a reason to step all the pipe size up, i'll just use reducers at the intercooler to go from 2.5" to 2" pipe.
(yes right now the audi is running no intercooler, right now with no boost controler, and no cooler, I"m running a monsterous 6spi, lol. |
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aaron_sK
Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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| BluFbdy wrote: | | For fear of sounding like an idiot is this the same car you had in the garage when I swung by last? The bandanna ride? |
Yup!
| Dewey316 wrote: | | Looking at intercoolers though, |
How's the FMIC situation on those cars? Is there much room down there? |
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Dewey316
The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 7295
Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:04 am Post subject: |
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| aaron_sK wrote: | | How's the FMIC situation on those cars? Is there much room down there? |
well, there is a good amount of room, but some things make it more or less difficult. Guys with the big HP cars run HUGE cores, but they remove the Aux radiator, and the hood latch.
The way I am hoping to do it, the limiting factor will be the bumper (the euro S2 and RS2 bumpers have more room, since they both had FMIC's from the factory). I have a fabbed up crossmember that will get me a bunch of extra room, but I am really hoping to pull it off with keeping the secondary radiator in place, the is where it gets really interesting.
I think I'll be able to fit a 6"x22"x3.5" core in there, but I need to take stuff apart, and really do some measuring. The real goal was to get it running first, then deal with the intercooler. |
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BluFbdy
Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Posts: 915
Location: Port Orchard WA
1989 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:05 am Post subject: |
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Dang I really need to pay more attention
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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There should be some other badass pictures in there Aaron......
Mount the intercooler where ever it's convenient. Rad in stock position is okay.
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aaron_sK
Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Twilightoptics wrote: | | There should be some other badass pictures in there Aaron...... |
Alright, alright!
Progress abounds as I spent the day of Presidents tinkering on my POS:
-Throttle body:
GM put a huge center pillar in the middle of the RWD throttle bodies. It is purported to direct air into the MAF sensor but none of the FWD cars had it, so I don't know. Regardless it went bye-bye:
I haven't done any porting work really and I am curious what you guy's would recommend I use to get the rest of that crap out of there. Some sort of long-shank carbide, maybe? I'm not sure what type of bits to buy or where to get them so any suggestions are appreciated.
-Alternator bracket and heater hose outlets:
GM used a silly routing system on the 3800 that ran the heater coolant through the alternator bracket as a ways of cooling the alternator. On the FWD cars this makes sense because it's way at the back of the engine bay but I have no idea why they carried it over to the RWD cars other than avoiding extra tooling.
The lower heater hose had to go for sure because it ran smack into the turbo. The upper hose was retained because the way it exits the intake manifold would have required a lot of cutting and fabbing for no discernible gain. I did remove the silly factory twist-lock attachment in favor of a good old-fashioned hose barb:
The 1/8" pipe plug is blocking a crossover that cycled coolant past the alternator even with the heater off. With half the system removed it was merely plugged. The rest of the assembly was cut off and clearanced.
-Intercooler brackets:
The factory radiator support has a lip on it for structural integrity and so I needed to make some sort of standoffs to hold the IC up a bit like so:
Installed. Crappy pic but you get the basic idea:
I will have to clearance the air dam around the nuts but this is the basic plan:
As promised the duct tape was replaced by actual bolts:
-Hood latch:
Set the hood on it, adjusted for height and ran smack into another problem... because of course there is another problem.
No way that factory pull is going to work. I can still use the rest of the latch but I am going to have to build something else to act as the secondary catch.
The hood latch itself has a lot of adjustment in it for height and parallel. The only real trick seems to be getting the angle forward and back:
You can see my basic plan for the latch:
I dorked that latch mount up cutting and bending on it, but there's plenty of 'em around and this was more a proof-of-concept (which seems to work well).
-Serpentine belt:
These cars never came without aircon as far as I can tell. I think some of the early cars may have had a delete pulley but that's of no use to us since there's a motor mount and turbo in the way.
First step is to replace the 3" tensioner pulley with a 3.5" for added deflection. I forget what that pulley came off of, I think it's a supercharger idler:
That allows you to run a 61" belt (61.2 as I recall) like so:
That picture leads us into our next topic:
-Welding porn:
I know Paul is eager to show off his excellent TIG skills and I wont disappoint him any further:
The driver's side comes pretty close to the water pump outlet but with this tight 90* piece and maybe a bit of insulation on the pipe right there I think it will be fine:
More to come... |
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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YAY!
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A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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Alphius
Peanut
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2429
Location: Grand Mound
1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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Badass! When does the wiring start?
Also, since it's been on my mind lately, do you have room to run spark plugs with those headers? It looks kinda close.
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84 Camaro Z28 - LS1/T56
85 Silverado - Low and Slow |
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Should have tons of room. The plug wholes are pretty deep. If he runs NGK I doubt there will be a problem with 90deg boots.
The real question is, did I guess rotation right for the Turbo to fit your non-screwed up chassis this time?!
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A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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aaron_sK
Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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| Alphius wrote: | | Badass! When does the wiring start? |
My next project is the oil pan, then start on wiring.
| Twilightoptics wrote: | | holes are pretty deep. |
Yup.
All of the plug holes are wide open except for the rear passenger side (farthest left in the first header picture) which looks like it will work but may need the header loosened so it will drop into the hole far enough to start. We shall see once I have the correct plugs in hand to test.
| Twilightoptics wrote: | | The real question is, did I guess rotation right for the Turbo to fit your non-screwed up chassis this time?! |
Check PM's. |
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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Note to all:
Do not build custom stuff on a chassis that is fubar. It doesn't always transfer over to a chassis that is not fubar.
That is all.
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A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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IROCDave
Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2010
Posts: 957
Location: Snohomish WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Nice to see progress man. Tacoma screw is your shop for carbide die grinder bits. They will make short work of the obstructions in the MAF. I have a die grinder and bits, more then welcome to borrow them. |
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turbo_jimi
Member
Joined: 23 Feb 2004
Posts: 1206
Location: Tacoma
1985 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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Cool pics! Especially that air dam!
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1985 Z28 Crate 350, Hurst T-5, 3.23s, Flowmaster Under previous set-up: 143.82 rwhp 216.98 lbs. torque @4390 rpms 3/12/11 |
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