Cascade Crew

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:47 am Post subject:

What exhaust is under the car now?

Based on the clip it does sound good, but also like it would get real old real fast.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:12 am Post subject:

Exactly. It was really cool at first and now it is getting old.

It is a Stainless Works system that Hawks sells for LS7 swaps. Long tube headers into a 3" Y-pipe with 3.5" merge, and out to a center in/out chambered muffler. I think it would be more quiet in the cab if I put the exhaust out the back instead of the hidden turn down. All the sound is bouncing off the road back into the cab. But I would really dislike the look of a 3.5" pipe sticking out from under the bumper.

Went for another drive today and found out I can use 6th gear now. This new cam has much better manners at low RPM, and it still lays stripes on the highway. Speaking of such, I'm thinking next summer I might run 15" wheels on the back so I can hook up.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:18 am Post subject:

If you run enough tire to hook up you'll just break something. Embrace the skids. Laughing

That SW system doesn't give you much room for proper mufflers. Might be able to squeeze a bullet in alongside the driveshaft and then weld a real muffler in place of whatever chambered unit comes with the kit.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 3:55 pm Post subject:

I'm going to a friend's house and we're going to swap wheels and see what happens. We both have 275/40-17 tires.

He has a set of summer Falken tires that he says hook pretty good on a '68 Camaro with LS2 H/C/I and 4L70E that pulled almost as much HP as I did on the same dyno. I have some shredded NT05R drag radials that I say hook like crap. It will be interesting to see what he thinks after trying my tires and vice versa. If I end up all over the road then I'm not going to complain about these Nitto's any more.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:19 am Post subject:

Still fixing little things here and there that were worn out after so many years. All this summer I have been avoiding driving after dark because my headlight motors were on the fringe of failing completely. Opened up my headlight motors and found the original bushings had crumbled into pieces.... many, many, many peices. Laughing

Fixed the headlights, did a treatment on the wood deck of the car trailer, and I am going to order some new tires for the trailer too. Would have gotten the car tuned last week but the weather didn't cooperate. Looks like weather will be good this week. Just gotta get some guys together for a road trip and I'm off to the drag strip. Thumbs up

chevymad · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 12:05 pm Post subject:

Filled my motors with jb weld years ago. You buy the rebuild kit?

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 6:13 pm Post subject:

DAMMIT! The hatch motor stopped working again and the hatch is open. Mad

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 9:14 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 9:32 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 4:40 pm Post subject:

Now the alternator quit working this morning. Rolling Eyes

chevymad · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:52 pm Post subject:

Hey.. your car acts just like mine. It's especially nice when you're replacing new parts for the 3d or 4th time.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:59 pm Post subject:

Since my dash is now torn apart anyway I took another look at the tachometer. I have yet to get the tach to work at all since the LS engine swap.

I have verified with an O-scope that there is a tachometer signal with a square wave at system voltage. I am running that signal through C100 D6 terminal (white wire). And I have verified the wire goes to the BROWN connector Pin 1 at the gauge panel, as shown below. The circuit trace from Pin 1 winds over to a connection at the tachometer with a negative symbol close by.

Is there anything wrong with the connection itself? Am I missing a screw in the empty hole next to the negative symbol? If not, then I suspect the tachometer to need repair.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:08 pm Post subject:

Looking at my old cluster. Yup you're missing a screw.

I think that's the ground terminal for the tach itself. It's marked E and the 3d post is marked Ign.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:22 pm Post subject:

Well, damn! What the hell happened to my old screw?!

You mind telling me what size and how long so I can go buy another one?

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:33 pm Post subject:

Ah, never mind. I'll just take it out again and swap screws around until I find one that fits.

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 5:54 am Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 3:55 pm Post subject:

The tach works! And it is pretty accurate too!

Car is up and running again. Plan is to drop it off for a tune tomorrow.

Alphius · Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:29 am Post subject:

Hooray!

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:39 am Post subject:

NICE! We want numbers after the tuning is done!!

QwkTrip · Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:02 pm Post subject:

Little bit of a table top torque curve going on. Even though it is not recorded in this run, the torque poors on at lower rpm. The power curve is pretty wide and the engine is so snappy that they had to roll into the throttle or the tires would spin on the dyno. And nobody can accuse me of having too little cam any more. The only mystery now is when does it stop making power??? That's about as far as I want to rev this engine.

480 RWHP on a Mustang dyno isn't bad but the engine still refuses to make big numbers though, and I think I know why. The valve seats leak. I noticed this when I tried to cc the head and ended up with water leaking onto the bench. So maybe I'll pull the heads this winter and get some valve work and optimize the dynamic compression ratio at the same time. But frankly, the tires can't hold the power I have so not sure how much I care at this moment.