Cascade Crew

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 6:57 pm Post subject:

The front brakes are behaving similarly with deep pedal before grabbing at all. Pad position is perfect.

I have a tool on order that will let me measure the length of the booster rod. No matter what the reading, I don't see any way to adjust the rod depth if it is too short. What do people do? Cut a spare rod and put the plug down in the hole? If I do that then the grooves in the rod will move forward. Anybody know what those grooves are for?

chevymad · Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 7:46 pm Post subject:

You have the calipers on the right sides?? Laughing

You seriously wouldn't believe how many times i've seen that done. They bleed and bleed the brakes.. no air of course and no pedal.

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:45 pm Post subject:

Yes, but I don't like the location of the bleed port on the PBR rear calipers. They go out the side and don't look optimized (dead at the top). I don't have x-ray vision inside the caliper but it doesn't look quite right from the outside.

I see on a C4 Corvette that the calipers are in the 10:00 position, whereas mine are in the 4:00 position. Mine are flipped so the bleed valve is on top but I might pull the calipers off the brackets and rotate higher when I bleed.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:17 am Post subject:

If the pedal doesn't firm up with the engine off, forget the booster for now.

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:20 pm Post subject:

I couldn't find a master cylinder plug anywhere so I fabbed up a couple short brake lines with enough adapters to make a plug. With both ports plugged the master cylinder is firm and the pedal is hard right at the top.

So.... we're down to air in the system either from inadequate bleeding, a leak, or malfunctioning caliper. I guess I'm going to learn a new method of bleeding.

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:47 pm Post subject:

I'll be darned. The brake pedal is high after hooking up the lines again and I haven't even bled it. I must have had air in the lines going to the master. Now I just need to get really smart about bleeding the whole system and I hope things will be wonderful!

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 7:54 pm Post subject:

Good solve, Jon. Cool

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:16 pm Post subject:

Ya, other than the $70 rod depth tool that will show up on my porch any day now. Hope there is a return policy on that.

Speaking of boxes, I've been getting a lot of boxes lately in prep for a cam swap. Very Happy

QwkTrip · Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 6:23 pm Post subject:

Brakes are a lot better now. But rear brakes still aren't participating as much as I want.

Also, I wish the pedal was harder to push because I find I can lock up the front brakes fairly easy. I want to have to stand on the brake pedal harder before locking. It will work better with the body's natural reaction in an emergency. Maybe I'm a manual brake kind of guy....

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:09 pm Post subject:

Time for the old-school 7" chromed out booster? Laughing

Only partially a joke, that might give you a less boosted feel.

Rear brakes is just prop valve adjustment unless you still have some air back there.

QwkTrip · Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 9:31 pm Post subject:

No, the prop valve is at max pressure. Bottom line is I simply have too much front bias and the rear will never lock up.

* I can either lose the drag radials for less sticky tires (not going to happen)
* put stickier tires on the front
* load the rear brakes with some mega grippy pads
* load the front brakes with less grippy pads

I'm going to play with pads. It will improve overall stopping performance and distance. Although, sticky front tires would take it to the next level and haul down like a race car.

Dewey316 · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:28 am Post subject:

How exactly is this all plumbed, and what prop valve are you using?

My gut says, you kept a prop valve, and then put the adjustable valve inline on the rears. In which case, you can never go above factory rear line pressure.

Bypass the prop valve so you have no rear line pressure drop, then put the adjustable valve inline on a full pressure line, then you will have full rear line pressure and can use the valve to drop it to a pressure that works for you.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 3:09 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:28 pm Post subject:

A co-worker had a good suggestion to swap front and rear tires and see what happens. If the rear brakes are working well then I should get lock up. If not, then I should measure for low rear line pressure.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:21 pm Post subject:

I finally found a parking spot at work that seemed okay.

chevymad · Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 10:06 am Post subject:

Looks good, other then the creepy old guy hovering near it. You should shoo him off.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 10:23 am Post subject:

They painted the parking spots too small...

Car looks good. Cheers

QwkTrip · Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 11:20 am Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 5:31 pm Post subject:

Short sleeve collared shirt on an engineer, story checks out. Solid beard too. Cool

The car looks amazing. I'm liking those wheels more and more.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 6:36 am Post subject:

Hopefully this will make the engine pull better on the top end. Also got upgraded rocker trunions that I will install at same time.