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305 hop-up
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the engine builds I've done for myself and friends and customers after my first one. Very Happy


It makes all the difference in the world. Especially with cam selection to determine what kind of gas you can/should run.

A lot of people run high octane and are just throwing money away. Then again others run the cheap stuff and can't figure out detonation lol.


I can validate QUENCH is VERY important with SBC.


With a 4 valve head it's pretty much non existent.

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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I was just giving Skyler crap.
I don't even have the heads off of the running engine yet. I was sort of just looking for the ballpark CR. But I didn't realize the factory ratings weren't acurrate. And from the sounds of it, I can't really find out what it is that way, so I'm looking at some math I guess.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to my link. Read it. Download the dcr calculator at the bottom. No math required. Just measurements.
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Quasi-Traction
"I have petals"


Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 3873
Location: stumptown

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta

PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
Go to my link. Read it. Download the dcr calculator at the bottom. No math required. Just measurements.


+1 to this. It also helps you not only figure your static CR but your Dynamic. which is what really counts.
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the only thing holding my "numbers matching" engine in the car right now is the motor mount bolts. The 305 will be out tonight after I get off work. Twisted Evil
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote







Of course whats the natural thing to do when you have an empty engine bay? Jump in that b**ch!

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Alphius
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2429
Location: Grand Mound

1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, I have a series of pictures of different cars I have owned over the years which I have named: "My Friend Bill In My Engine Bay Again"
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a cowl hood to go with that obnoxious intake?!
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has fit under the hood fine for the last 25k miles.
BARELY
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Quasi-Traction
"I have petals"


Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 3873
Location: stumptown

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
Got a cowl hood to go with that obnoxious intake?!


Laughing I was thinking something similar.
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fiveoformula
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1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank god for the drop base air cleaner Cool
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have a question on the vortec timing chain cover, some of you may know the stock one is composite plastic, it originally has a crank position sensor located in it (for use with CPI) and that it uses 2 less bolt holes than older style SBC engines.
Now I guess some blocks are drilled with all the same bolt holes as older SBC blocks but mine is not and I thought Id keep it simple by using the plastic timing cover so I wouldn't have to drill and tap the block BUT, it dawned on me that vortec engines dont have adjustable timing at the dizzy, and stock cover only has one timimg mark with no numbers (im assuming just so that it can be checked with a timing light but not adjusted). So I'm not sure which route to go, I think it would look pretty lame just bolting on the old style cover just missing 2 bolts (upper left and right hand corners) even though thats what some guys do. Plus I know the facory plastic cover will probably have the best chance of sealing properly. opinions?
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use a timing tape for marking the balancer instead of a timing tab. Or if there's metal could you drill n tap the missing bolt holes?
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could drill into the block where those holes normally go if I have to.
Im not framiliar with the timing tape, do you just tape it onto the balancer?

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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.. you buy a tape that matches the diameter of your balancer. The tape is all degreed out up to like 50* so you can check your total timing. You just match the 0 pointer on the cover to the tape to find degrees instead of the other way around. You can also figure out mathmatically and mark the balancer with paint..
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll second the idea of timing tape, or just mark it where it needs to be, put it there and leave it. It's not like you ever set the timing on an EFI car more than once. Laughing
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bolts are missing?

You should verify the true TDC relation between the piston and the balancer when you degree the cam.

Once you find true TDC, then mark the balancer where the timing mark on the cover is.

Then do a little math. Find the circumference of your balancer: Diameter X PI. Then divide that number by 360. Then multiply that number by what your stock base timing in the chip is set to.

That's the numerical inch distance from the TDC mark on the balancer to measure out and make your NEW mark. Make sure to marc it BTDC. So measure it out clockwise from the TDC mark. Then when you time it, just put the light on it and turn the dizzy to line up with your NEW mark.


BTW use the plastic cover, it's made to seal to that block. Missing two bolts out of a GENI SBC is asking for sealing trouble.

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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
What bolts are missing?


Most vortec style SBC blocks will be drilled like this, and they dont use dowell pins in the block to line up the cover like a traditional old SBC, they're actually in the cover itself.

Twilightoptics wrote:
BTW use the plastic cover, it's made to seal to that block. Missing two bolts out of a GENI SBC is asking for sealing trouble.

Thats what I was thinking. I'll stick with a plastic vortec cover. Now that i think about it, all I really need is the "zero" mark and I can use my dial-type timing gun to set timing anyways.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup. Just need to verify the balancer mark is true TDC using a piston stop or dial indicator if the head is still off.
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine is really coming together, Ive determined that mt clutch isnt going to be worth putting back in, has less than half its life left so probably a good time for an upgrade.
Other thing I need to order is pushrods, I have a length checker so I can determine the correct length but does it matter which diameter pushrod I use? they list 5/16" and 3/8"

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