Cascade Crew

chevymad · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 6:25 pm Post subject:

Eww torque to yield bolts on a sb chevy? They're actually supposed to be better but I still like good old reuseable bolts.

I skipped plastigauging one motor. Guess what happened? Was using the same crank/block without any machine work so I figured I was safe right? Well put the thing together and when the motor warmed up there was no oil pressure. Pulled it back apart. The main bearing set I got, which was sealed in a bubble pack, had std upper halves and 0.010 lowers. I needed 0.010 and when I checked the size I only looked at a couple of the lowers.

Napa should have plastigauge. It's usually kept in back.

Beer... I spent 1 year drinking Bud. At the time that was supposed to be a step up from the Lucky I drank the previous year. Then I realized how shitty my mouth tasted in the morning and moved on to better beer.

fiveoformula · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:34 am Post subject:

Oh torque to yield? I shouldn't re-use the original ones then?

Wow makes me want to doublecheck my bearings now.. they should all be .010" under.

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:06 pm Post subject:

Anything that is lbs. + degrees is torque-to-yield and cannot be reused.

TTY bolts do provide more clamping force for their size, so they are "better" as you say, B, but they are a pain.

Bud tastes like piss and isn't really any less than the lower-tier "good" beers. If you're going to be a cheap ass do what Paul said and drink PBR, or if you're a real wino asshole get some Icehouse. Cool

fiveoformula · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:17 pm Post subject:

I'm sorry but PBR is what the damn hipsters drink these days!

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:53 am Post subject:

Hipster

Many tty bolts can be re used a certain number of times. Gotta find specs on yours. And then figure out what common practice is.

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 2:58 pm Post subject:

I got my .001" -.003" plastigage in the green package. just worried about these bolts. having trouble finding info. All I can find seems to be about the regular old bolts that you torque to 65ft/lbs.

this is what alldata says..

CRANKSHAFT BEARING CAP BOLT AND STUD (PREFERRED METHOD)

First Pass (Two Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.)

Final Pass (Two Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 73 degrees

First Pass (Four Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.)

Final Pass Outboard Bolt (Four Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 43 degrees

Final Pass Inboard Bolt and Stud (Four Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 73 degrees

CRANKSHAFT BEARING CAP BOLT AND STUD (OPTIONAL STRATEGY)

Two Bolt Type Bearing Cap 105 Nm (77 lb. ft.)

Inboard Bolt and Stud (Four Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 105 Nm (77 lb. ft.)

Outboard Bolt (Four Bolt Type Bearing Cap) 90 Nm (66 lb. ft.)

Does the "optional strategy" mean I can just torque them to 77ft/lbs?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:01 pm Post subject:

What model and year did the engine come out of?

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:03 pm Post subject:

did you look on Alldata yet?

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:12 pm Post subject:

This is a 1999 Chev Tahoe 5.7
And it is a 2 bolt main cap

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 6:01 pm Post subject:

Yes you can do either. But its more accurate to do the preferred method. Not to mention that it will provide a more equal clamping force since you're doing two passes through the torque sequence.

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 6:47 pm Post subject:

You think its safe to do either with used bolts though?

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:45 am Post subject:

TTY bolts shouldnt be reused after a specific number of torquings.. But how do you know? If your budget is tight at least compare all the bolts length. If any bolt is longer that one has been stretched and is no good.

fiveoformula · Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:57 pm Post subject:

Good news is all the main clearances look good and consistant. .0015"- .002"

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:14 am Post subject:

Yay, pistons all in. did this part sober (No bud). also plastigaged rods, about the same clearances as the mains. Its coming along. Cool

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:40 pm Post subject:

So if a '99 vortec 350 Tahoe engine has a compression ratio of 9.4:1
And those heads get shaved .030" how much effect will that have on compression?

Alphius · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 5:15 pm Post subject:

Measure everything out and throw it into a calculator.
Just head shave would not affect it too much, but head gasket thickness and piston dish volume (are those stock pistons?) affect it as well.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

chevymad · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:01 pm Post subject:

You can't go by factory compression ratings at all. They're notoriously off. As Gabe said, measure and calculate.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:49 pm Post subject:

Is this where I get to start rubbing it in about saying you should have done calculations for compression ratios, chamber volume, Piston To Valve clearance and all those other fun little facts? Wink

lol, I'm just messing with you.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:27 pm Post subject:

Piston to valve clearance is fine until you run into excessive (close to 0.6") lift, or domed pistons.

Shaved heads can make a huge difference. In that I mean upwards of 0.5:1. Depending on the original CC and how much was taken off.

You have to measure the heads CC.

Pat Kelley's DCR calculator is the shiznit for this. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

CCs, head gasket compressed thickness, head gasket bore dia, deck height, piston cc, bore, stroke.

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:30 pm Post subject: