Cascade Crew

Al Hasse

With the motor out of the car, I'm presented with the opportunity to more easily accomplish relocating or eliminating the heater valve. Relocating seems easy enough with the right length hoses and correct bends. How do you go about routing the hoses to eliminate it? Obviously, there needs to be a cap on the hard coolant line at the frame rail, and a cap on the vacuum line.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:32 pm Post subject:

That's pretty much it. Cap the hard line (keep spares, they like to fail lol) And then join the other two hoses on the valve together, or get a single length to go from the firewall to the intake.

Then you've got a standard semi old school chevy setup.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:50 pm Post subject:

Cool, just a short hose from the firewall to the intake then (LO3 is on the back and would take maybe a foot). So wherever my new intake has a heater hose fitting Cool

Now, off topic. I'm doing little things while waiting for the motor to arrive, cleaning brackets, painting pulleys, etc. How do you remove the pulley from the power steering pump? That bracket is still pretty nasty.

chevymad · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:54 pm Post subject:

You need a special power steering pump puller. It grabs that groove in the pulley near the shaft. Maybe you can rent one.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject:

Go down to BlatoZone and tell them you want to rent Part #27031

Al Hasse · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:20 pm Post subject:

Already did. It's still no easy task to remove that pulley, even with the puller. Might be easier when on the motor and in the car.

blue89 · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:46 pm Post subject:

It should pull right off. It's interference fit so it may not come off easily the first time.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:02 pm Post subject:

It probably was the first time. I'm getting a new pump to replace this one, just because this one looks so nasty with everything else looking almost new. I might even take the steering box off and get some paint on it

iansane · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:00 pm Post subject:

When I originally ditched the heater valve I cut back the metal line to just before the T so I didn't need the cap. Worked like that for years. GM also still sells the hardline from a nonAC car (circa 84?) that comes without T. I believe it was nonAC? I can't remember what the conditions were but they're still available. I switched to that when I did the motor swap.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:28 am Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:35 pm Post subject:

Actually a really good idea. That way you don't have a rubber cap ontop. I welded mine shut after going through about 3 rubber caps that failed and sprayed coolant over everything.

iansane · Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: