Cascade Crew

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

Hello,

I was just refered to this site by a member i meet at the gas station.

I have a 83 camaro project car with an mid 70's 350 bottom end and a 85-89 tpi on top to the best of knowlege that will not start unless i use a jumper wire to the inline fuel pump. Once in starts and is running i have no power mid rpms and it back fires out the intake and out the tail pipes. I have replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump. didn't help. I have good spark and fuel press 38 psi. I'm pulled the codes 32, 43, 51, 45, 42, 33 with an obd I scan tool. I'm now at a total lose of what to do next. Thanx for any help you can offer

Dewey316 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:29 am Post subject:

Yikes, that is a lot of trouble codes.

A couple of them sort of scare me too. Here is a run down of what the codes are.

32 - EGR
43 - Voltage for EST
51 - PROM Error
45 - O2 Rich
42 - Fault in EST or fuel cut-off relay
33 - MAF Sensor

So, you have a lot going on here. There is going to be a LOT of tracking down wiring, and testing this stuff.

I would start by asking some questions.

Do you do the TPI swap yourself?
What exactly is the 350 you are using?

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

I bought the car as a paint and finish project.

I'm not sure on bottom end. it was rebuilt i think 30 over but may be 60. good compression. i don't know anything about cam ect.

Dewey316 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:53 am Post subject:

This is the problem with taking over someone elses project, is that you don't know what all is suspect.

The first thing you need to sort out, is the PROM error. If the computer is not happy, who knows how many of the codes are being caused by the computer.

The other thing to start with, is check all the wiring, and check the vacuum lines. Make sure everything is connected, all the wiring is there, and all the sensors and relay's are connected correctly.

I have the gut feeling, that this is going to be a very tedious process for you to go through this.

flea · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:57 am Post subject:

Dewey, could it be as simple as using a 305 prom, or even one from a 6 cyl. car. swapping the motor but not the brain and now its confused.

Dewey316 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:06 am Post subject:

Dewey316 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:11 am Post subject:

I should say, that given all the codes, i would start with the ECM/PROM first. If the car is runnign in limp-home mode, with a non-stock motor, who knows what other codes it could be throwing.

I would get ahold of another ECM/Mem-cal/PROM and start there, then see what codes you still have, and how it runs.

But, also check vacuum routing, and wiring, that is free to check out, you don't need to spend money replacing stuff to make sure it is all there. But with the PROM error, you are going to have to do something about that before any of the other codes are really of any use.

aaron_sK

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

I will pull the ecm and prom chip to get the number and see what that gets me. Can i use a spray electrical cleaner on them to see if i have a bad connection?

is there a place i can get the ecm tested to see if it works right?

Aaron_sk i'm out in south Roy

thanx for all the help

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

one more thing it does have a painless wiring harness under the hood, and there is no maf sensor. Are you able to remove this with an aftermarket harness?

chevymad · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:06 am Post subject:

The newer computers used a map sensor instead of a maf. That would be the only way to delete the maf. The wiring harness won't change that.

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

i pulled the ecm part # 01227730 90 camaro with the prom part # 64010/pp8d painless performanance

I cleaned all the connections and and replaced a hose on the egr

still very hard to start and have to use a jumper wire to fuel pump to build pressure before starting hot or cold.

didn't change the backfire

engine has no power around 2500 rpms and back fires

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

i used the jumper wire method to pull codes and got

21 throttle postion sensor (signal voltage high)

23 manifold air temperature (low temp

45 oxygen sensor (left back rich)

54 fuel pump circuit tpi (low voltage)

just the four, and there not the same any ideas

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

code 54 fixed

2 connectors on the painless harness were loose on the fuel pump relay.

i can move the throttle by hand slowly and the engine doesn't increase rpms is this a bad tps

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:34 pm Post subject:

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

blocked off the return line and got my fuel pressure way higher then my gauge goes, but put it back i only have like 20 lbs now. from what i have been reading online and in my books its a bad fuel pressure regulator. i have found some jelly in the tank and lines today i think that is part of the problem. is it safe to say i need to replace fuel pressure regulator???

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:35 pm Post subject:

If the regulator is blown it will puke gas out of it's vacuum line. I'd be looking at the filter long before the regulator. A partly clogged filter will still pump up the line when deadheaded.

Licnac · New Member Joined: 19 Mar 2010 Posts: 16

i replaced filter and pump early in the week didn't change anything. Took the pump back and got a second one thinking it might be bad didn't change anything. pump putts out good pressure. and when i plugged the line it ran like a dream better then ever before about 20 minutes ago. I'm looking into what type to purchase. any thoughts on BBK Performance - Fuel Pressure Regulator
Part Number: 1714

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:45 pm Post subject:

Snag a set of Torx security sockets and pop it apart before you buy anything. Pretty obvious once you get it apart if it's blown.

iansane · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:59 pm Post subject:

If you don't have the security sockets you can take a small punch and pop out the center pin on those torx heads. Before spending the money on an aftermarket version I'd look at rebuild kits for your stock FPR. You can make it adjustable fairly easily if you like (to help badaid a not so accurate tune or something). That was one of the first things I ever did to my car back when I was 15 or so. Weld a nickel to the top of the FPR and tap it (or nut that's already threade?) and run a bolt down through it. Does the same thing.