Cascade Crew

[Outlaw28]

got my performer rpm intake and vortec heads today...they are the modified Scoggin-dicky heads...i got them used...they look good...they can accept .525" lift...damn box was heavy...was like picking up my own weight trying to carry that to the garage...anyways got a few more parts to get still...but around end of month beginning of next im tearing her down...from what i can tell i should be making around 360-370hp at the crank and around 410lb tq...should be a good fun street motor...if i can get a new rear end for the car i think i ganna do some bracket racing this season...ill try to get pictures tomorrow

[redlava]

If you think the heads are heavy now just wait till your lifting them onto the engine. Just curious what carb/cam are you planning on running? BTW we need some pics.

[rjmcgee]

Get a couple old headbolts, the long ones. Cut the hex off and then cut a screw driver slot on the top. Screw those into two of the holes on the edge where the short head bolts go, it makes setting the heads alot easier in the car.

[Outlaw28]

going to run with stock Q-jet for time being...going to get it rebuilt but should suffice for what im doing until summer time then i might put a holly 750dp...going to be running a lunati voodoo 262 cam...advertise duration 262 intake duration at .50" 219 112 ls 108 intake centerline...im pushing budget right now...still need to get some headers...from the research i been doing with ppl with similar builds should make around 360hp and around 410 tq...decent street motor...later down the road ill prolly do some other upgrades like 1.6 full roller rockers and machine heads for screw in studs and some fancy valve covers...im sure it will make me happy for time being...until i can afford a new rear end for the car so i can put some drag radials on it...ill get pictures up first thing tomorrow...thx for tip with putting the heads on i will do that...

[aaron_sK]

[rjmcgee]

If they have press in studs you should really have the heads machined for screw in before installing them. Shouldn't cost much and that is alot of cam for press in studs, gonna need strong valve springs. Much easier and cheaper to do now than later pulling the heads.

[Twilightoptics]

[chevymad]

I have the voodoo 262 in my truck, running 1.6 roller rockers too. With the recommended lunati valve springs i'm just under 350lbs pressure when open. Most of my hydraulic lifters won't handle it, you can watch them collapse when rolling the motor over. They're lunati lifters as well. This makes for a very clattery valvetrain. I've also broken several valve springs, broken several rocker studs, and bent a few pushrods. I finally had to switch to ARP rocker studs to stop them from breaking. I also switched to aluminum full rollers trying to lose some friction. The valve springs are very near coil bind as well.

Guess what i'm trying to say is make sure your rocker studs and heads are good before installing them. While this cam isnt that large, it has very aggressive lobes which puts alot of pressure on the rest of the valve train and requires a very strong spring. I'd rethink the 1.6 rockers myself. I was actually wishing I'd gone with 1.5s.

[Outlaw28]

springs are fine they are good for on lift and theyve already been ran with this cam in a 327...yeah i was going to look into getting screw in studs done before putting them on...also there are lots of articles and other ppl running the same heads with even bigger cams...without doing any other modding to them...i havnt look at the studs yet to see if they are screw in or not...you Scoggin-dickey does offer to machine them for screw in studs and guide plates as options...i know these have not been machined for guide plates...but is possible they already have screw in studs...just wish i was down in cali id get my old man to do it...hes a machinist...

aaron_sk reason why is because im planning on doing some bracket racing and i want mechanical secondaries and a more stable fuel curve...the holley is better for racing but not as good on gas mileage as the Qjet...Qjet is a good carb and i do plan on sticking with it but might try switching it out for a holly 750dp i got in garage for when im at the track to see if it gives any improvements...


sorry did not get pictures today...i ended up throwing my back unloading a truck of railroad ties...will take some tomorrow as im going to be in garage cleaning it

[aaron_sK]

[rjmcgee]

[Outlaw28]

heres the spring specs

Spring Specifications:
Installed Height: 1.700"
Spring Pressure: 110 Lbs/in
Open Specs: 290 Lbs/in @ 1.210"
Coil Bind: 1.150"
Spring Rate: 367 Lbs/in
Max Lift: 0.525"


motor wont be this mild forever...its what i have laying in my garage...im not ganna go buy a smaller carb to put on car...

[chevymad]

Here's lunatis recommended spring.

Number of Springs Per Valve Single
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.266 in.
Coil Bind Height (in) 1.060 in.
Damper Spring Included Yes
Spring Rate (lbs/in) 462 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 0.883 in.
Recommended Camshaft Style Flat tappet hydraulic
Installed Height (in) 1.750 in.
Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 108 lbs.
Open Height (in) 1.250 in.
Open Pressure (lbs) 339 lbs.

[chevymad]

The spring rate is 100lbs stiffer.

[Outlaw28]

ok found some info out on the springs lunati recommends for the cam

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1983&gid=287

bottom right...about the same install height and lbs as the z28 springs that are on the heads...only difference is the spring rate much higher on the lunati's

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-73943/

[chevymad]

If you can get away with your springs the cam will probably live longer and be quieter. It's all about whether they'll controll the valve properly though. I don't like just how stiff the lunati springs are, and how noisey the valve train ends up. I was popping screw in rocker studs like candy for awhile.. It just snapped them right off. Then switched to the ARP and that quit.. only to have a couple of the springs break. I'm very close to coil bind with the 1.6 rollers. The new set of lunati springs I bought to replace the broken springs appear to be made differently. I think they may have switched to pacalloy which is supposedly a much better spring.

[Outlaw28]

367 not 337....you guys got a rough idea how much it cost for to get the heads machined for screw in studs??? ahh hell i should of bout the edelbrock heads...would of saved all the hassle...was trying to save a few bucks though...i ran this by you guys earlier in a different thread and nobody mentioned anything about the cam being to aggressive for the springs and needing screw in studs...this is turning into a mess...if i have to replace the springs and get the heads machined for screw in studs buy studs and whatever else needed to get heads ready...i might be in the hole...need to figure out prices here...this going to cost to much im just going to say the hell with these sell them...and buy heads later down the road...


well i might just stick with 1.5's then...that will keep the lift at .468 intake and .489 ex

[chevymad]

You can have it done, or they sell a tool and you can do it yourself with a drill press. Actually can be done with a hand drill.. but pretty hard to set it to evenly cut each stud boss.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-89000/

There's a cheaper one too, but it doesnt have a pic to show you.

All depends on what tools you have, and how handy you are.

You'd also need this to align the tap.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900136/

Paul would have a better idea on prices to have it done for you at his shop. I havent paid for that kind of work in quite awhile, so a bit out of touch.

[Outlaw28]

i might look into going that route..

[chevymad]

One more thing, any head you would have bought you would have had a spring issue. Almost every cam requires its own set of springs. About the only way around that is to have a shop that sells heads build the head for you to your specs.