Cascade Crew

[popballz]

well that is my question "will 12v straight to the starter break it?"
(a few minutes before this, schucks tested it and it worked)
its like a 1995 ford explorer

after the starter relay stopped working, I put the new one in its place, and it did not work, there was already wires to another one(??) so I put it over there..., starter relays wiring is all messed up.

I halfway used the wires for another starter relay that was in there (??) and halfway ran my own wires (12v, ignition switch wire, wire to starter solenoid) and I got the starter to spin out of the car. (12v and ground straight from the battery, and wire from starter relay)

so I put it back in....and took it right back out, now the solenoid pops the starter gear out, but it does not spin, did I blow up the starter motor?

any help would be greatly appreciated

[fiveoformula]

Nope that wouldn't have caused it not to work, you can hook a battery up to it no problem as a test.

[popballz]

[aaron_sK]

How do you think Schmucks tests starters?

Heck, what type of voltage do you think the starter sees from the solenoid every time you turn they key.

Pull the starter back out and test it again. If it works, then your solenoid is bad, or the starter wire has too much resistance. If it doesn't then you're out the cash, and lesson learned.

[popballz]

[aaron_sK]

There are several Crew members here who have swapped to a remote, Ford-style starter solenoid. They are far superior to the Chevy design. Almost no chance for exhaust heat-soaking causing no-start issues.

Makes up for the TFI module heatsoaking causing no-start issues.

[Twilightoptics]

Dont pull it out again.

Verify you've got 12v on the heavy lead.

Then have someone turn the key to start and make sure you've got 12v on the smaller purple lead with key in "start" position.

If you have proper power, starter is bad.

[popballz]

[popballz]

Turns out it was the main 12v line that had 12v but didn't have 12v at the same time!!