Cascade Crew

[DBL_TKE]

Alright I first tested my car as is with no tune up just to see what I was up against. I don't have any of the results with me but i was jsut about exactly twice the limit for HC on both the idle test and the 2500 RPM test, everythine else was fine. Now keep in mind that my car is a stock '85 LB9 with hollowed cat and garbage can-ized AIR equipment. I originally and obviously thought that I failed due to my car lacking a catalytic converter. So I got a universal cat and mounted...er...hick rigged that into place (I have 3" x 2 1/4" oval pipe) because I want to replace the hollowed cat after I pass. well I tested again and the results were almost exactly the same. Both times the engine was plenty warmed up and running at 220-240* with all accessories off. I do, however have a bit of a misfire. It also only happens when the engine is warmed up or in other words, in closed loop. I am going to replace my plug wires and see if that changes anything, I just cleaned and checked the cap and rotor but I guess I'll do that again just for good measure. Does anybody have any suggestions? I guess What I'm really trying to ask is "does anybody...'know a guy?'"

[DBL_TKE]

Well I tested again with new plug wires but that only lowered my HC on the 2500rpm down to 241 from 388. Idle stayed about the same at around 470. What else may be the culprit? I'm running out of time.

[Quasi-Traction]

might try knocking back the timing a couple degrees retarded before you test.

Have you checked the ignition module? how about the plugs themselves?

have you checked anything on the fueling side?

[DBL_TKE]

As far as I remember I retarded the timing mechanically via the distributer but I may have gone too far resulting in a lean misfire. I'll check it tomorrow and set it at around 4* or so to be safe, and fill up on lower octane gas.

I replaced to plugs less than a years ago with Bosch platinum +4's. besides that I've only checked the cap and rotor and cleaned them while I was at it.

If you remember awhile back I was running on 6/7 cylinders because 1 or 2 of my injectors weren't firing. what would that do to those park plugs?

[Quasi-Traction]

the ECM could have told the other injectors to add fuel, which I suppose wouldn't hurt anything other than possibly the lifetime of the other injectors that were in good working order? That probably wasn't the case, however.

I'm not really much of an expert on the Batch fire (IE Tune Port) injection systems, so maybe someone with a little more expertice can chime in and offer suggestions.

You could always ask Tony if you could borrow his Cats? Might be enough to squeak you by the sniffer.

[Sellmanb]

Plat +4 plugs arent that great in these ignition systems. May want to run through with a set of regular 'ol AC Delco cheapies, they'll probably do yah better. Ask me how I know? lol

[aaron_sK]

[wanarunhard]

i was a smog inspector in california for quite awhile, and every body forgets to change their oil right before the test see cause un burned hydro carbons go right down their and hide in the oil ive seen people just change the oil and pass

[DBL_TKE]

Yeah, the day after I got those plugs is when I started hearing bad things about them. Go figure. I also checked my timing today and it was in fact about 10-12* advanced so I reset it to about 2*. Also one of the vacuum lines what collapsed so I pinched it back open for the time being, looks like I'll be getting another one to replace it. Another vacuum line was completely disconnected. Only problem is I don't know where it goes to. It's on the drivers side attached to a 3 way vacuum thing sort of in the shape of a "T" going along the sub frame rail in the direction of the charcoal canister. I already checked the charcoal canister and it doesn't seem to go to that as it comes up short anyway.

One last thing, how do I check if my EGR in functioning properly?

[Twilightoptics]

[DBL_TKE]

[aaron_sK]

The line going from the T next to the intake goes two places: One goes into a hardline which dissapears into a harness headed through the firewall, that's your HVAC. The other heads behind the wiper motor, and goes under the master cylinder and down to the cruise. It then T's off with one line to the cruise, and the other to the vacuum orb under the fender.

Or, as Tony says, "The Orb of Power".

When deleting the cruise, you still need the orb for your HVAC, so either cap one end of the T, or replace it with a straight connection.

[DBL_TKE]

Well thanks for all the help guys. I finally managed to pass today. After about 6 attempts, now several of the workers there know me by name.

Turn out when I adjusted the timing before I went to DEQ I accidentally advance it rather than retarded it. I was at 10-12* advanced. Needless to say I fixed that yesterday. I barely passed as I have an "exhaust leak" that I was plenty aware of but it probably cut down on some of the emissions going to the tail pipe. this time my HC was at 200 even and my CO2 dilution wasright on the limit of 6%. now I can relax for 2 more years.

[Dewey316]

[blue89]

what smog equipment is necessary to pass? I know they do a visual inspection but I heard somewhere that cars over x-old aren't required to have functional smog stuff like air pumps.

[aaron_sK]

Down here they don't look under the hood as long as your cigarette lighter works, so they'll never know what you're missing.

[DBL_TKE]

Well at the DEQ I went to it was sort of a hit and miss type deal with who you got inspecting your car. There's one guy there who thoroughly inspects your car and he was the only one who asked me to pop my hood. he never got the chance to look under there though as my car wasn't putting out a high enough CO2 dilution number.

Hydrocarbon standard: 220 PPM
CO standard: 1
dilution: 6

Those are the actual emission's standards and you need to pass a:

-smoke test
-noise test
-need a fuel cap
-need a catalytic converter (they'll check for it with a mirror)

they will also check for your AIR pump as well I believe. I'm not sure but they are supposed to do under hood inspections.

they had me do a idle test and a test at 2500 RPM's.

I also found that if you can manage to get your CO down to 0 you don't have to do the 2500 RPM test. Either that or the guy felt sorry for me and just let me pass.

This is all in Oregon though. I do know that if you have a car older than 1974 than you don't need to DEQ it. awhile ago it used to be 20 years or older but now they have a set year. I don't know about WA though.

[Twilightoptics]

Didn't pop my hood, and my car was smoking!

[Quasi-Traction]

washington has a rolling 25 year exemption.

[83Z28BlackBetty]