Cascade Crew

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:04 pm Post subject: TDC?

So what started out as simply removing the oil pressure sender and relocating has turned into having to completely retime my car. Rolling Eyes

I had to take the Dizzy cap off to get the sender off the back of the china wall, and when it put it back on, it wouldn't fire. I tried adjusting the dizzy, still nothing.

So, I decided to take the distributor out, pull the driver side valve cover and rotate it over to top dead center. I've tried rotating it both to where the pointer and the balancer line up. I've done this about 5 times today and I guess I keep landing on the Exhaust stroke because all I'll get is some hiccup out of the carburator.

Now, the EXHAUST STROKE will have the balancer and pointer mated up at Zero with the exhaust valve just coming closed on #1, correct? If so I've done that....multiple times...

the INTAKE STROKE should have the intake valve just coming closed on #1 and the Balancer and Pointer should be adjusted to Zero, right?

I guess on what is supposed to be the intake stroke, as #1's intake valve is coming closed, the Zero mark on the balance is nowhere near the pointer.

I swear I've tried on both the intake and exhaust stroke and still haven't gotten it to fire. I've double checked the firing order each time, and it seemed to be correct each time.

I feel like a total retard not being able to get this to fire. I know exactly what to do, I just can't...actually DO it.

*sigh*

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

Roll it over until the intake valve on number 1 opens and then closes, then just turn it a little bit until the timing mark is at 0*. Do you know that the pointer is accurate? Even within 5* - 10* should start it. Drop the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1.

chevymad · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:34 pm Post subject:

Like Rod said. You are forgetting that the intake closes with the piston down.. you then have to have the compression stroke ending with the piston up before you have tdc/fire.

Xophertony · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:52 pm Post subject:

this is almost exactly what i did on my six....

did you remove the plug wires from the cap? did you put them back on right?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:49 pm Post subject:

dude I told you like 3 times now how to do it.

NOT THE EXHAUST STROKE. That puts you 180 out. that means the plug fires on the wrong stroke.

If you get it close and it doesn't fire, advance the dizzy *TURN COUNTER CLOCKWISE*

If it still doesn't fire, something else is buggered up.

BigDaddyVu · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:55 pm Post subject:

the brown wire on the firewall?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:15 am Post subject:

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:26 am Post subject:

I got it figured out.

I overshot Zero mark for the balancer/pointer, so now its running a little retarded. I'm gonna pull it out and give it another try.

Dad suggested I pull #1's spark plug and stick a finger in there, when I feel pressure, that's when its getting close to TDC, rotate the balancer until the Zero marks align.

Also, paul you can have your Compression gauge back. Looks like each of the cylinders except #4 are running pretty close to 120psi (just below the mark). #4 is running just over the 60psi mark. So I guess that one is where my blowby is coming from.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

Can you just turn the distributor and advance the timing. shouldn't need to pull it back out. Confused

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:32 am Post subject:

tried that and took it for a drive, pops and hesitates a bit, and I know I can get it closer.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 1:11 pm Post subject:

[quote="Quasi-Traction"]

Dad suggested I pull #1's spark plug and stick a finger in there, when I feel pressure, that's when its getting close to TDC, rotate the balancer until the Zero marks align.
[quote]

sometimes you feel pressure when you're rotating the engine up on the exhaust stroke also.

Like Rod said, if it's close enough to run. You don't have to pull it out at all. Just rotate the dizzy. And get a damn timing light dude!

if the vacuum pod hits the firewall/intake before you're in time, you can rotate the dizzy back the other way 30deg and then rotate all the plug wires one terminal as if they stayed in the same spot when you turned the dizzy back from the vac pod hitting something.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 1:12 pm Post subject:

There is also a good chance your balancer has slipped also.

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:05 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 3:36 pm Post subject:

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:54 pm Post subject:

adjusted the plug wires a bit and moved the dizzy around, timed the car by ear/idle and I think its doing ok now.

Took it for a short drive and seems to respond ok. looks like the pipe plug where the oil pressure sender was is sealing for now but it appears I am losing a smidge out the back of the china wall. its probably the seal on the intake manifold.

Still idles kinda funny, but that might be due to the low pressure and blowby of #4.

I'll probably drive it for the summer, then pull the motor out and start the rebuild.