Cascade Crew

[scott in wa.]

88 Iroc vert, HSR.S/D
I was driving our car yesterday, and as I pulled into the driveway, I noticed the volt meter gage in the dash was way on the minus side, I thought wow this thing isn't charging.
I left the motor running and checked the battery with a Volt meter.
It showed plus 14.5 volts. Hummmm.

So what’s the deal? Is my gage off??
What does the gage check? Shouldn’t it say plus 14.5 volts just like I read on the meter?

Oh ya,
I noticed the brakes are working better now..
Don’t know why but now the vacuum gage reads 11 in/hg at idle.
Brakes are way better.


The other thing is,
My Speedo is way off with the 3:73 gear swap.
Will this affect the shift points in the tranni??
Seems like it shifts to soon, maybe.
Or does the Speedo gears in the tail shaft of the tranny have anything to do with the shifting of the tranni??





Thanks
Scott

[scott in wa.]

TTT
Anyone??

thanks
scott

[Al Hasse]

About your tranny, from one of my knowledgeable co-workers, your shift points will be different with the different rear end gear. Your speedo supplies a buffered VSS (vehicle speed sensor) signal to the computer in pulses per mile (my TBI car is 2000, my MFI 4000), so your computer "thinks" it is doing the speed that your speedometer indicates. You might need the correct gear in the tailshaft to match your 3:73 rear end.

[scott in wa.]

Thanks Al,
Trying to order new speedo gears right now....

Anybody now what exactly the volt meter is telling you?
Isn’t it the charge that is going, or getting back to the battery??

Thanks
Scott

[aaron_sK]

Scott, where can you order those? I'm going to need some for my 3.73's when I get that car running.

[scott in wa.]

I found this place on the web.
I e-mailed them and told them I had 2:73 rear gears before.
This is what they said



don@transmissioncenter.net
(This is what you need if you have a speedometer cable.

15 and 43 tooth gears $19.00
40/45 housing $55.00
o-ring $1.50
Clip if you don't have $3.50
Retainer if you don't have $5.00
Total $84.00 plus about $8.00 UPD)

I just e-mailed them back and asked why I need a new housing?????
Crap its 55 bucks.
do I really need the new houseing???anyone????
Thanks
Scott

[aaron_sK]

As far as I know you only need the gears. The tailshafts between cable-driven 700R4's should be identical.

[chevymad]

I think there are different tailshafts.. not 100% positive though. But there are 3 different speedo gear housings that go into the tailshaft. Because the gears are physically different sizes at certain ratios you have to have a housing that moves the shaft away from the drive gear further.

[scott in wa.]

I just ordered the speedo stuff but went with there used housing.
should be here tomorrow.
yaaaa..
thanks
scott

[scott in wa.]

I got the new speedo gears but I have not put them in yet.


HELP.....


I swapped a 91 s/d harness into an 88 TBI car:
I found that the bulk head fitting, fire wall driver’s side is a little different.
I had to fix a couple of wires to get some things to work right.
Still more to do.
There was one wire with the volt meter and the charging system that was giving me fits but now its working fine.
I thought that this fitting was only the gages but it may be that these some how send data to the ecm, kind of weird. Don’t see how this fitting (bulk head fitting) or wire bundle does but it may.
Runs better now.

Also: I have been looking at a 15 way I/P connector that is located next to the ecm, (but it also may be used for sensors that are hooked up to the ecm) one side of this connector is black and the other is white,
What the heck is this???
what’s I/P stand for???
My IAC valve is not working correctly and I suspect the wires some where are mixed because of the harness change. So Iam looking at this connector and how it relates to the IAC, in the 91 S/D and the 88 TBI cars.

I will set minimum idle and its fine then I drive the car for a couple miles then it sounds like its sucking in way to much are through the by pass the IAC uses, sound like ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss Loud.

It appears that the IAC is opening up, wide open, and then I must turn the idle down, and all the other stuff, tps.
You can here the car a block way.
Its a newer IAC valve off of the 87 z27 that was put on a Holley 58mm.
Any ideas???
Thanks
Scott

[Twilightoptics]

Hmm on the IAC check the wiring first. After that you might look at what it's doing in the chip?

[scott in wa.]

Ya, Iam trying to find out what the heck the 15 way connector does.???
It’s located by the ecm.


And what the heck does I/P stand for.

I be doing a check with the lap top tonight to find out what step that iac is on.

I guess I could limit the steps it does take and see if it works right.

[chevymad]

In most wiring diagrams I/P stands for instrument panel . No idea why its over by the ecm if thats it though.

[scott in wa.]

I hooked the computer up in the drive way and ran the car.
this is what I noticed

At idle
1. Battery voltage 13.00 volts does not change when reving motor.
2.IAC 62 steps at idle in closed loop
this goes to 160 steps when motor is shut off/ weird 160 steps.....
3.Map KPA 70 at idle in closed loop. is this right???

[Twilightoptics]

Your map is a little high for idle. I have a larger cam and don't idle in a kpa that high.

What you need to do is what you did before with the IAC. Don't set "minimum idle". You no longer have a factory cam, things are different. Get the engine to proper warm temp. Then adjust the throttle blades open, until your IAC steps are around 20ish. Then readjust your TPS. When you turn the motor off... the IAC goes to it's parked position. You can adjust this in the chip. Parked cold should be almost wide open while parked at warmer temps should be just over the idle position.

Check your battery voltage AT the battery with the engine running. Just use a volt meter. What does it read? Rev the engine to 1500rpm, does it read 13? If so take a look at the charging system. If it reads higher, start checking your grounds for the harness and ground strap(s) on the block.

What spark are you running at idle? I think you need more. What are your blms at idle? You should be closer to 50/55 atleast.

[scott in wa.]

What spark???
what gap???
Iam not sure what you mean.
thanks
scott

[Twilightoptics]

lol Spark meaning spark advance.

My idle spark advance warm is 26º My base timing is 6º and set at 6º in the computer.


What ignition are you running these days? I'm running the MSD 6AL, Jacobs Ultra Coil, Factory distributor, and Autolite 25s gapped at .040 or .045 dependong on what I feel like doing when I gap them

[scott in wa.]

MSD digital 6 plus
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D6520&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Don't know what the advance Idle spark is set to, havn't messed with that.
its the 730 ecm 8d

Same plugs as you, gapped at .06 per the instructions from MSD
Jacobs ultra coil as well.

Oh, Crap a while back we fouled those plugs and told him, (my son) to put an old set of NGK platinum’s in. He did this by himself; I bet they are gapped at .030.

I wonder if that’s part of my problem.
Iam a bone head.



Scott

[Twilightoptics]

Check the plugs and check the spark advance in the chip. If you're running stock advance, it's not enough.

The MSD says to gap it at that but I don't. I like .045. You're actually the first person I've seen to gap em that large. The Coil still has to jump that gap. The Jacobs CAN but eh I don't know what it does much more good other than put strain on things.

I wonder what Brandon runs for a gap?

[chevymad]

0.035 to 0.045. If I go wider then the jacobs puts out so much voltage it destroys my wires.