Cascade Crew

scott in wa. · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:04 am Post subject: car, HSR, update

We got it running, and wow there is a difference, with all the new parts we put on.
Digital MSD
Jacobs Coil
Stealth ram
Holley 58mm throttle body
Speed density harness.

Not drivable yet (no rear-end in it) sure seems to idle better, still hear the cam. No rich smell like it was before, must be the MSD and coil.

Got a wiring issue for the alternator, that one wire that attaches to the rear, (its hot) should be a ground. The plug type wires plugs right in.

The other is the front end. New k-member and a-arms (wrecking yard), wheel base is perfect, but the front end is way to high. I put the springs in backwards last week and thought that was the problem, yesterday I flipped them over and still way to high.......same springs as before, maybe I will unbolt the struts from the tower and see where they fall.
Any ideas???

Thanks
Scott

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:08 am Post subject:

Check the indexing of the springs. In the a-arm, there is a notch (and 2 water drain holes there), you need to make sure then of the spring is sitting in that notch, otherwise it will sit higher than it should.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:21 am Post subject: Re: car, HSR, update

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:21 am Post subject:

BTW congrats on getting her running!

scott in wa. · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 9:55 am Post subject: thanks

Thanks
It sure is nice looking as well
Put the steel braided hose on as well with the 6An fittings.
Ran it from the stock location, but looks sweet.
So Far Zero gas leaks on the fuel rail, thank god.

The one wire that bolts to the alt is power back to the battery?
I will start it up and put a volt meter on that stud to check.
Now where should that wire go???
I have one of those Proform hi-torque gear reduction starters. The hook ups I believe were different than the stock one.
That’s the only place that is a mess on the harness.
I have I believe 4 smaller fusible wires on the battery side of the starter.
It is a mess there.
Then the other, I can't find the oil pressure sending unit wire for the gage in dash. It’s a single wire with blade connection.
I need a 91 shop manual, a good one. I have the 87, 88 manuals but they are different
I will be buying one soon.

Hey whats the map rating on the stock sensor, 1 bar 2 bar ???
I was reading I may have to go a little bigger??

When I put the springs in, I put that open end of the spring down, in to cover one of those holes and not the second one. So I believe it is in correct. That front end thing has been a pain to do anyway. Its kind of a chore to tear apart beach time, I do notice the wheels are tipped out, caster or cambered out??? Will have to get it aligned.

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:15 am Post subject:

if the top is out, that is camber. Ride height has an effect on camber, so fi you car is not sitting right, it look like it is aligned badly.

Can you measure the distance from the ground to the fender lip? How much higher than normal is it sitting?

scott in wa. · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:29 am Post subject: ride height

Oh Ya it is way high.
Bout 4 inches, from were it was before the swapped k member and a-arms.
Old stuff was bent.

It looks like a gasser, should have a straight axel under it. LOL...
No really I got to figure this one out.
But yes its way out of alignment.
So If I adjust the tie rod ends It should rotate that correct???
Or is it some kind of shims?
Thanks
Scott

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:42 am Post subject:

Neither. Camber is controlled by cupper strut mount.

I would not mess with that, until you get it at is correct ride height. Ride height has a HUGE effect on camber.

Have you tried rolling the car back and forth? it could be that is just needs some rolling action, to let the tires un-bind, and the suspension to settle.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:56 am Post subject: Re: thanks

scott in wa. · Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:21 am Post subject: car

Got the starter and alt wiring straightened out.
I have a few more questions

The digital msd has a red LED, its on, so there is some kind of a problem some where, got any ideas?

The other is there are two vacuum hose connection on the throttle body,
Does it matter which one I use for the pvc valve?
And what the heck is the other one for???
These are not the coolant bypass ports.

Will be starting to do the gears in the rear tonight.

Thanks
Scott

scott in wa. · Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:23 pm Post subject: car

Well the two vacuum lines on the new Holley throttle body appear to be ones I will not need, I took off all the Emission stuff and the cruise control.
So I may end up plugging them
I have plenty on back of the stealth ram plenum.

The msd thing, red LED, is still a mystery as of yet.

The other thing is,
that there is a plug that goes to the trany, its kind of square looking, the old 165 computer harness had 3 wires running to it, the new 730 S/D harness has 4, what’s this plug for? I can't seem to locate it in the manual or on the web.

Thanks
Scott

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:43 pm Post subject:

No idea about the MSD thing.

The vacuum lines on the passenger side of the TB are for Emissions and PVC return stuff (important for MAF).

For SD you run the PCV to the back or underside (mine's on the back) of the plenum... and the other valve cover you put a breather in.

I used vacuum fittings on the 2 TB lines to plug, but they keep drying out and cracking causing small leaks. Right now I just have em super wrapped in electrical tape. Seems to hold the longest.

scott in wa. · Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:56 am Post subject: plu t/b

Ok, I will plug the two ports on the passenger’s side of throttle body.

I got a couple more things.

1. Automatic shifter, 700r4

What shifter do you recommend for street strip.
We like the vertical pistol grip polished aluminum ones.
But there will have to be some cutting to get it into or even take the current console out. Anyone ever done this???

2.
I have been reading up on how to do the rear end.
One question I have is what do they mean by bearing pre-load by .004 ????
Does this mean to put .004 more shim that is required to get the correct preload??
Thanks
Scott