Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:38 pm Post subject: EGR plate, B inside!~

This was the only one I could find. It was $5 with valve! The EGR valve faced the rear of the ford, so I have to turn it around obviously to fit the dizzy, but not sure if it would clear the waterneck.

I assume the 3 vacuum ports are just manifold vacuum?

How do you suggest that I plug off the egr inlet part?

How big of a line do I need to plumb to the head as we talked? I ask this because the place where it would need to be drilled and tapped is on a stair step for some dumb reason. Looks like a PITA to get drilled properly since I don't have access to a drill press.

Not sure on the Jimmy, but the EGR valve on the car had a single wire coming off of the base. This one has a vacuum thing coming off the base. What do each do, and what do I need to do?

Thanks B.
-Paul

chevymad · Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 6:19 pm Post subject:

Yes the 3 ports are just vacuum ports. If you have to you could always use a thin metal plate under the egr plate to block off the egr inlet. I'd say at least a 3/8" steel line.. would prefer 1/2". The Jimmy shouldnt have either a wire or a port. The wire is for egr temperature which tbi doesnt use. The port on the ford is for egr pressure feedback which you wont use either. You will need some kind of high temp cap for it(jb weld?) though. Hopefully flow will be close enough. Wonder if the valve is a positive or negative back pressure valve.. If it's positive all should be good cause it wont open until theres some pressure in the exhaust. If its negative and the valves sized too big you could get a bog... Might take some experimentation. Course you could always unhook it when you arent getting smogged anyway.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 6:37 pm Post subject:

I thought that the valve shouldn't open unless vacuum was pulling it from the solenoid?

The thin metal plate, would that be to just cover the hole, or plate across all 4bbl?