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T5 out, T56 on the way in
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:48 pm    Post subject: T5 out, T56 on the way in Reply with quote

My T5 finally broke behind the 383. Apparently, it had a faster fluid leak at the speedometer cable than I thought and it ran low


In the driveway, up on jack stands. I wasn't too comfortable how this looked


So I jacked the rear a little higher and put my ramps under the rear wheels, then added the second set of stands up front.


T5 came out pretty easy without the bell housing.


After removing the tail shaft housing and popping the cover, this is what happens when you let the fluid get too low, apparently, I didn't check often enough...


Fortunately, I was driving slow when the input shaft froze up and my flywheel didn't take too much damage and will be resurfaced.


Clutch didn't take too much either, but will be replaced along with the pressure plate.


This is Paul's T56 along with his adapter plate and bell housing, just fitted together. Easier to put them in one piece at a time, and center the bell housing on the block.


Dan's mod to the tail shaft housing. Now it supports both VSS and cable speedometer outputs.


That's all for now, cross-member is still in shipping, clutch on order, flywheel being surfaced among a few small things.

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Quasi-Traction
"I have petals"


Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 3873
Location: stumptown

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta

PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eeech....bye bye 1:1. You think it was fluid? I'd bet defelction and physical load on the trans itself. of course, you never know with prior owners. I might be tackling something like that with a 1987 toyota PU, tonight. 4th grinds, but will go in at certain rpm's and will stay in 4th if he keeps his hand on the stick. All other gears seem okay. I'll bet syncro or blocker ring. Either way, you got an extra OD gear out of the deal, so that's always good.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it pops out of gear its detents and shift pads. Grinding is synchro or input bearings or pilot for 4th gear. I've seen the above failure many times. It's lack of fluid.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the flywheel back on and new pilot bushing. I started the process of lining up the bell housing and got to the point where I need another set of hands to manually turn the motor while I watch the dial in the bell hosing opening. I tried to use a long extension on a flywheel bolt, but I could only get about 2/3 around before I'd slip and knock the dial or its support. From what I saw before bumping the dial, it looked pretty centered.

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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bell housing was dialed in at .004 runout without having to get offset dowels. Today, I was able to install new clutch and throwout bearing, reassemble the bell housing/scatter shield and install the LS T56 adapter plate. Transmission is ready to go up under the car.







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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, silly me...

Try as I might, I just couldn't get the transmission to seat to the adapter plate. Thought I had a misalignment of the clutch, but all that was fine. What I think I did was install the "extended" pilot bushing incorrectly. I took the meaning "extended" to mean extended past the crank and installed it that way, apparently it means extended past the normal recessed position and near flush with the end of the crank.

Now I have to remove the bell and the clutch just to remove the bushing and either flip it over or install a new one, probably a new one.

I now have a nice alignment tool about the same length as my input shaft. In this picture, it's seated in the pilot bushing and should be almost flush with the adapter plate. It just so happens, this is exactly the size of the gap I have between the plate and the transmission....
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. Little end goes in first and it rides flush with the crank snout.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Embarassed Laughing
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to pull the pilot bushing without any damage to the inside, I did have a small indent from the puller on the face toward the input shaft. Now installed correctly, tomorrow I can slide the transmission all the way to meet the adapter plate.

Here, the alignment too is only just engaging the pilot bushing, and only so I can pull the thing out prior to sliding the transmission in. If I slide the tool all the way in, it will be flush with the face of the adapter plate, and it being the same length as the input shaft, I should have no problems.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got my T56 mounted up to the bell housing after flipping the pilot bushing over. Now another snag, BMR made this crossmember to fit an install without a 1/2" adapter plate between the bell and transmission. Now I need to have it modified. I'm thinking I can have the flat standoff cut off and re-welded over top of the tube and have a hole drilled through the tube.





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Twilightoptics
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Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which mounting holes are you using? Looks like it needs to come back one set, thats not adapter plate thickness wrong, way more than 1\2"
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's only one set that they fit in due to the angle of the frame and bracket. It may be a bit closer if I were able to swig the cross-member up into place against the frame. I tried to move back one set, but only one side seems to fit. I'll try again and take some measurements tomorrow.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not as far off as it looked at first, but still more than 1/2". Maybe a full inch. I put the cross-member on the transmission mount, then I was able to get it flush to the frame, if the whole thing could slide forward an inch, I could get it mounted.

Driver side holes are cut almost parallel to the frame rail and look closer than the passenger side.


Passenger side holes are cut near a 45* angle to the frame and look farther away from the bolt holes.
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be an optical illusion due to the tight shots but it looks to me like you need to pull the passenger side backwards and push the drivers up just a bit and it will work fine.

The forward hole on each side is for the veesix. Doesn't even look like yours are tapped.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
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Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the eay they built it as a bar I'm not even sure what do to with that without being on hand. Snap a pic of the whole member. Looks like about 3/4" and when on the trans its rotated forward one side more than the other.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They did indeed build the unit with the passenger side rotated more forward than the driver side. Aaron, you are correct, this piece uses the forward hole on the passenger side which needs to be tapped - no big deal, I can do that.

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Twilightoptics
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1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really think the sideway slots are stupid.

Moving to the forward holes wont help it needs to come back. Bout the only way is to rebuild the angle iron with the holes. At this point your best bet is to install on trans, slide it back on the trans mount slot as far as it will go, center the cross member so each pre drill hole is just as far away from the mounting holes on the frame as the other side, then mark and drill new holes. See where they land and if they intersect with the old ones we can fill them with weld and grind smooth.

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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I can do what you're explaining with tape on the frame rail. punch my hole through the tape, then mark as I did the frame. After removing the tape, line up on angle iron of the cross-member and mark where the holes are.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sliding all the way back, I lose one of the two mounting holes I have on the frame, it's past the end of the angle iron. Might get away with that on the passenger side, but the holes move toward the inside edge of the angle.
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Twilightoptics
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Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the holes even line up on the frame regardless of the trans location? Your painted holes look like it's going to be off, but it's so hard to tell from here. I really don't like the way they designed that thing. I'm going to photoshop a picture for you to get an idea of how I would go about modifying that member.
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