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Fan Wiring
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '85 Ford had a variable oil gauge and a broken temp gauge. Both my '95 Fords have had dummy oil pressure gauges and the temp gauge in my latest rig moves so little I think it may be a dummy as well. Laughing

You really want to be making readings with a good quality gauge (like an Autometer) and not some hokey factory junk, regardless of what vehicle it is.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're guidelines meant for the average driver. Which is why idiot lights work so well. Big Flashy Lights and Buzzers OH MY!
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They also don't want to scare old timers who can't believe its supposed to run that hot. Or that 4psi of oil pressure is specified for factory hot idle.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
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Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hell, 4psi makes me cringe!
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same here. But I was working on a camry that was turning on the idiot light the other day.. Read the factory specs and it said 4.7psi hot idle. Shocked Since the light was coming on.. this camry was actually lower then that! Laughing
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yikes! That high mile LT1 car I use to have idled warm at 5-10psi but the second you touched the throttle it went right to 30psi. Pretty sure the bearings were about done in that one.
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Ripped out all this cheesy garbage last night, including my toggle switch, found the two factory wires to the fan, and the original fan switch connector. I put it back to factory in like ten minutes, and got the fan to turn on when I switch the AC on. Then went to the switch connector and found that I dont even have to extend that harness, just took it out of the wire loom a bit and it reaches the intake manifold perfect. Now just need an adapter to fit the switch into my intake from Ace hardware and I'll be gold.
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
Posts: 5740
Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Invest. Very Happy

Good job on the cleanup.

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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solder > Butt connectors.

Nice improvement on the fan. Thumbs up
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I beg to differ aaron. Those butt connectors are awesome, easy and I use them daily and have for years. Never had a failure when crimped and heated properly.
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solder is definitely a better electrical connection than a crimp. Either way, be sure to support the wire so it cannot bend at the solder or crimp. Heat shrink is good for that.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
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1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several of the manufacturers I've worked for over the last 6 years, supply those rather than solder and heat shrink on connector pigtail replacements.
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iansane
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Joined: 16 Jan 2004
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Location: Bothell

1991 Pontiac Trans Am

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's one of those, "If both are done properly, then they'll last the life of the car." However, it's much more difficult to solder something properly then crimp and heat properly. I prefer easy and effective (especially since I suck at soldering).

GM supplies almost all pigtails/harness repair kits with those heat shrink butt connectors.

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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help it if you guys suck at soldering. Laughing I think you're right, Ian. Crimp connectors are provided not because it is best practice but because most people can handle the chore.

If we want to talk best of the best, replace the whole wire.
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Twilightoptics
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Joined: 13 Jan 2004
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Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a few places, like a school bus with a rear engine and no access doors, that there's no way in hell you're soldering without removing the entire harness!
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A solder connection probably has less resistance than a crimp connection too.
I can't solder for crap either though, so I used crimps and heat shrink. And a good crimping tool that I bought. Pretty sure I used needle nose pliers and butt connectors much to big on all that mess I just ripped out.

The real amazing thing here is...... I have a freaking fan that turns on BY ITSELF now! lol
Ive been using a dumb toggle switch for something like 8 years in that car!

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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of those new butt splices have low temp solder in the electrical portion and hot glue in the shrinking portion. Makes a great waterproof connection. I do do alot of soldering now days though. Especially since our store only carries 3-6 of the good kind of connector in each size.. I mean really 3 connectors? You usually need at least 4!
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fiveoformula
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Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1799
Location: OR

1988 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chevymad wrote:
I do do


Haha now that's funny.
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Al Hasse
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the headlight harness I just repaired, I used the normal crimp connectors for the terminal ends, removed the insulator and soldered the wire to the terminal, then covered with shrink tube. For the normal in line splices, solder and shrink tube. Works great so far....
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5472


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol.. was a little funny typing that too.. Seemed like there should have been a different version of the word.
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