Cascade Crew

Xophertony · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:43 am Post subject:

Well,
My brother came by, and welded some bolts to the pan for me. I used my slide hammer to pull it clear. There is still a noise, though much less noise. The engine also dies by itself after 5 seconds of running. The pan is leaking from the back, and from the welded places. I fear there may be some type of damage to the rotational assembly that is making this noise. I had Jen start the car while I had my hand on the pan, it did not feel like it was being struck.

I'll be insane busy this weekend, but the weekend after it's engine pulling time. No more half-measures. I'm going to remove the engine and replace the pan, pan gasket, rear main, distributor seal, and any other seals I can get to while I am at it.

I am also going to replace the Header bolts, I need something that does not back out on it's own.

Does anyone have any engine pulling advice? The chiltons/haynes manual has instructions, but those of you that have done this in the past have probably discovered all kinds of tricks and tips that will make the job easier, and words of caution that will make me less likely to break something. Please share.

Alphius · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:57 am Post subject:

Take all the accessories off of the front of the engine. Take the distributor out for more clearance. Take the wiper motor off or you will probably smash it. Remove the radiator for a little more room. If you can't get your hoist high enough to go over the core support, jack up the rear end of the car so the nose drops. You can lift the engine by bolting your load leveler/chain to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Make sure you have plenty of thread engagement and you get the bolts tight.

I like to pull with the T5 attached because I hate messing with the transmission while I'm lying on my back under the car. Lots of people say this is dumb but it's just my preferred method. With an auto I usually nut up and pull them separately.

Xophertony · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 9:30 am Post subject:

Thanks!
Will I have to pull my TPI intake off? Will I need to remove my accessories?

I am planning on pulling the Trans/Engine as a combo, and then splitting them up. I'm going to replace the rear main, which requires my transmission and flywheel to be removed. ( I am going to have to rent/buy an air compressor to get those bolts off without the engine in the car).

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 9:58 am Post subject:

Intake can be left on. Pull all accessories. The power steering and aircon can be left hooked up, just hang them out of the way.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject:

Is this load leveler good enough?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

Also any recommendations on an Air compressor? All I need it for is air tools. Compactness a plus.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject:

Try to find a used compressor off craiglist. They come up frequently.

Do not buy an oil-free compressor, they're trash.

Do you have 240V in the shop? A high voltage motor will put out more power and run cooler for the same amperage.

CFM at the highest rated pressure is the deciding factor. Do not pay any attention to horsepower, PSI, or CFM at low pressure.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:43 pm Post subject:

Nothing on craigslist is worth anything, all oilless 110V crap.

I think I have decided on this guy. Not the best, but there is a BIG price jump to go 220V with a bigger tanks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/2-horsepower-29-gal-150-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-68127.html

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:06 pm Post subject:

My brother is lending me his load leveler.

This is the list I have so far of things I am going to replace while the engine is out:

Oil pan
Oil pan gasket
Timing cover gasket
Rear main seal
Bolt on oil pump pickup retainer.
Distributor o-ring.

Should I be replacing anything else?

Thanks crew.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:18 pm Post subject:

If you have no plans to further the engine and feel ambitious.... main and rod bearings are right there...

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:51 pm Post subject:

If I was doing that... Would it make sense to tuna honer through it and throw some new rings in there? I am getting some pretty good blowby these days. Is that doable or would I need to take it to a machine shop. Cause that is probably not in the budget.

How difficult is it to replace those bearings?

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:29 pm Post subject:

This is mega snowballing..

Won't know if you can hone and go without taking it completely apart and measuring for bore wear and taper.

Just changing bearings is easy. Make sure to plastigauge each just to catch any mistakes.

That compressor gives no meaningful specs at all. To compare compressors you need to know cfm @ 90psi mainly. That said, if you aren't running a continous air tool like a drill, grinder, cut off tool, or sander then it will do the job. It will run an impact wrench just fine because the tank will supply all the air you need, then the pump will catch you up before you use the wrench again. You could also use the other tools, but only for a short time then wait for it to build pressure again.

Aarons totally right about staying away from the oilless compressors. Extremely noisey and don't last very long under hard use.

Don't try to run your compressor on an extension cord, buy hose instead. A cord will become a resistor and is hard on the motor.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:34 pm Post subject:

If you have a 220 outlet, i'd go with something like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-Gal-Stationary-Electric-Air-Compressor-C601H/203187350

Same footprint as the smaller compressor and it will do most anything a home user could want.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:43 pm Post subject:

That Harbor Freight unit's specs are buried in the .PDF file they link to. It's like 5cfm at 90psi; not a good compressor.

That Husky is a nice price. Probably about as good of a CFM/dollar that you're going to get off the shelf.

That said I am sort of biased. I paid $70 for my 240V DeVilbiss because the check valve was shot, and I paid $50 for my Emglo twin stack because it needed rings. Laughing

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:48 pm Post subject:

I bought my "5hp" craftsman oil type compressor over 20 years ago. Worked it hard and I can't complain. I've used it to power my DA all day long with it running continuously. Now it has a slight knock when cold but after it runs a couple times that quits. I'm waiting for it to give out midpaint job some day.. which would really suck.

Anyway, something like that husky is what i've eyeballed for awhile now.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:50 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:54 pm Post subject:

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:24 pm Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:51 pm Post subject:

You look up the clearance spec. I don't remember what the range is. If the plastigauge says you're within the range though you're all good. Personally I would pull a cap or 2 and check the bearings before changing them. If they're not worn looking, in the bronze, or scratched up then keep on running what you got.

If one does not measure correctly you'll have to figure out why. Different size bearing? Worn crank? Bad rod or cap? I doubt you'll find any of these. I had a new set of sealed in the package bearings have 1/2 the bearings be the wrong size. This was the only motor I didn't plastigauge while building. This meant taking the thing back apart to figure out what was wrong. That's why I recommend using it. It's not the most accurate way to check clearance but it will catch screwups like that.

I read the reviews on the compressor too. It still ends up averaging pretty well even with the negatives. One also has to take into account that more people with negative experiences will review a product then those who have no problems.

Xophertony · Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:24 pm Post subject:

Yes,
And the language used in a review will clue you in on the intelligence level of the person making the claim.

"These here compresser done and runed all my toolz"

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:48 pm Post subject: