Cascade Crew

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:00 pm Post subject: Engine mounts

Crew,
My GTA's engine mounts are bad. I need to replace them. Years ago I scored some Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts with an assortment of other hardware. (Quasitraction and I drove to Salem to get them! good times). Anyway, I seem to recall someone telling may they used these and had vibration issues. Anyone have any feedback? Should I buy rubber mounts?

Thanks very much.

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:13 pm Post subject:

I just changed mine for poly, definitely feel a difference. If you want to keep it smooth, they probably arent for you.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:43 pm Post subject:

Thanks. So just parts-store specials then?

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:49 pm Post subject:

Well depends on what you like.. Will feel more connected when putting the power down, but if you want it to stay the way it is, get the parts store specials. BTW I cant imagine doing them with the engine IN the car, it was a pain even doing mine with the engine out...

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:57 pm Post subject:

The mounts now are SHOT and I hate the way it feels. The shifter moves all over the place even with a poly trans mount. I don't want to me shaken to pieces, but it's a pony car, I can deal with a little vibration.

I have NO IDEA how to change engine mounts. I have been looking for a how to, no luck so far.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:59 pm Post subject:

Done it a few times. Pulling the a-arms is the easiest way I've found.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:00 pm Post subject:

Aaron,
Were you able to leave the engine in the car? Do you need an engine hoist?

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:03 pm Post subject:

Yes to both.

You use the hoist to lift the engine up so the clamshells are above the mounts.

Then you yank the a-arms for easy access to the nuts inside the crossmember (thanks, GM! Best engineering evar!)

I have done it with the a-arms in place but it is an annoying, knuckle-busting experience.

Just my two cents.

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:28 pm Post subject:

I also did it with the control arms still on, wheels off, flashlight, trying to get a tool on them, switch between wrench and ratchet, then back to wrench, curse a whole bunch, it just sucks! lol

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:33 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys. This is going to happen this weekend I think. This and my muffler rubbing my rear trac-bar are the two BIG annoyances with the car right now. Smile

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:42 pm Post subject:

Have fun! hope you have tons of beer!

Xophertony · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 4:49 pm Post subject:

Found a few write ups on TGO that said "1-3 hours, probably closer to 1."

What ever. I just spent 6 hours doing ONE side. I put the car back in the garage and I'll do the other side tomorrow.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:26 pm Post subject:

If the bolts dont break I remember doing them in 2-3 total. Its all about tool selection.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:31 am Post subject:

With hand tools I wouldn't even want to try it. An impact, extension and wobbly impact sockets would make it much quicker and easier.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:34 am Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:27 pm Post subject:

There's not much I like to tackle anymore with just hand tools. Heck I fired up the compressor to change a headlight assembly today.

Motor mounts were the 2nd mechanic job I ever did after a cam swap in my impala. I still remember that it really sucked. The bolts just would not line up.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 2:01 pm Post subject:

It's only a 10 minute job with the k-member on a work bench.

You can battle with it for another 6 hours or remove 6 bolts and a couple screws and the k-member will drop out.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:03 pm Post subject:

Ah yes, tool selection. Speaking of tool selection. I lent my hoist to a buddy, and when I got it back we forgot the chain/hook combo. So I figured I would do the old 2x4 and jack on the oil pan trick. well.. Rotating assembly, meet oil pan! Smashy Smashy

I don't think it was too bad, I let the engine run less than 10 seconds, so I don't think I could have damaged anything major. Might bee some metal shavings from the inside of the pan in the oil. I bet I could get away with removing the pan, smashing it back flat, and putting it back on. My concern is this, would it seal? I would rather replace the pan if I am going through this much trouble. This leads me to some questions:

Aftermarket or OEM pan? I am not planning on keeping this engine forever, but while I have it I woudl not mind increased oil capacity. What are your thoughts crew?

Also, Do i have to remove the engine to replace the pan? can I get away with using the hoist and just lifting it up a bit? Thanks.

fiveoformula · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:32 pm Post subject:

Holy crap, dented the pan far enough for it to contact the crank?? Make sure the oil pump screen isn't smashed. Its way eaiser to just get the engine out when dealing with the pan.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:45 pm Post subject:

And Tony takes it to a whole new level..

I agree, just pull the engine. Fighting to get it in right while in the car with no room just sucks.