Cascade Crew

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject:

The is for the info. I have a few follow up questions. Since I have the engine out are there any other things that I would be a fool not to do? I would like to replace my rear main at the same time (I have a single piece rear main that is not part of the oil pan gasket). I would also like to do the distributor seal. Is there anything else that is real easy to get to, and not super expensive ?

Should I separate the engine and transmission first (stick shift)?

Any other tips for someone who has never pulled an SBC before?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:23 pm Post subject:

I personally leave the standard trans on, with a butt plug in the trans, a load leveler, and a fat friend to stand on the engine hoist or it will tip. Automatics I leave in the chassis.

Your pan gasket should be a 1 piece rubber already,. I've done it in chassis, it's no fun but you can do it. Hell I did it a few times without a hoist.

Silicone on the joint surfaces: Timing cover to block, main cap to block.

You'll need to check your oil pump pickup height now. And buy a bolt on holder, or tack weld it after you move it or it WILL fall out.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject:

Did you replace the pan or just the gasket Paul? Cause if he was just changing the gasket I agree with you. Just stretch it around the pan and go. But trying to get the pan out of the chassis is a bitch.

Got me wondering about Jon's method though. If the K member was out wouldnt the pan just drop off?

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:37 pm Post subject:

Yes it would.... That's an idea. John, you have done this before? I have a spring compressor, and I am getting pretty good at it too.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:03 pm Post subject:

How about weld a lug on the pan In the major dent you have and pull it out with a slide hammer?

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:13 pm Post subject:

The crushing is in the small area between the kmember and the steering center link, where I wedged a 2x4 to jack the engine. I could do that, but I would have to do 3 or 4 to go across the whole area. That is some outside the box thinking I like it.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:47 pm Post subject:

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:20 pm Post subject:

Chris, the mounts are done. When I said "since I have the engine out" I should have said "since I will have the engine out". As of right now the car is fully assembled and ready to drive. It was only upon starting it to go for a test drive that I discovered I had bent the oil pan. Right now I am planning on going with Paul's slide hammer plan, as it will involve the least work. I just need to get a welder from somewhere. I think my brother would be cool with me borrowing his, and I have a 220 outlet for it in my garage. If that fails to get the job done i will drop the kmember this weekend and replace the pan that way. I'll leave the rear main for the next time I pull the transmission.

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:13 am Post subject:

Does anyone have a photo of a 3rd gen fbody engine with the oil pan off?

Alphius · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject:

Any help?

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject:

Yes! the pump and pickup are no where near the front of the engine right? I crushed the first 3" only, the rest of the pan is fine. So I have not in any way damaged the oil pickup system to my knowledge. Do you agree?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:55 pm Post subject:

Correct. Id still by a bolt on pickup retainer IF the pan comes off. Cheap insurance.

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:15 pm Post subject:

Can I get a bolt-on pickup retainer at any parts store?

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:32 pm Post subject:

Alphius · Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject:

He can't run it, the crank counterweight is hitting the crushed part.

Comedy option:
Down the hatch

and let it self clearance... Laughing

I lost my first 350 to a pickup that fell off the pump, so I'd definitely be putting a retainer on or tack welding it if I had the pan off another 350.

Xophertony · Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:33 am Post subject:

I only used the word "self clearance" once, it did not work out Smile

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:32 am Post subject:

If the engine ran for ten seconds then it is already self-clearanced. Just cranking the starter over would have pushed the pan back out.

Depends on how much you care about this motor and how AR you want to be.

If it's not knocking or leaking more than an SBC normally leaks I would run it.

Just my two cents.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:18 pm Post subject:

Clarity:

Tony, has the engine started ran/idle since you did the motor mount replacement?

If yes: Don't worry about the bend in the oil pan, if its not weeping out severely.

If no: Start it on jack stands in the front, put your hands on the bottom of the oil pan have someone start the motor, and see if you can feel any kind of contact. If you do, As Gabe indicated, probably one of the counterweights is making contact with the pan, and that's no good, Go for pauls slide hammer method.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:23 pm Post subject:

Also, on the upper part of the pan, there's a spot welded "ledge". If that is still straight and just the front part of the pan is is bent, you're A-OK.

Xophertony · Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:55 pm Post subject:

only the front 2" of the pan are affected. My brother is coming over Saturday AM to weld some bolts onto the pan, and I will yank it straight with the slide hammer.

The engine started and ran for less than 12 seconds since the engine mounts have gone on. I could here the crank/counterweights making contact with the pan, but I did not inspect up close.