Cascade Crew

[BluFbdy]

So here are some pics from todays work, the paint is from eastwood, its the royal blue, it has more pearl content than I originally anticipated, I like it though. The paint goes from blue to purple and in between in the color spectrum depending on the light, sometimes its purple, sometimes it deep blue lol

We have to go through and wet sand in the morning then shoot the clear, piece it all back together then cut and buff. im stoked this is finally happening



never said it was a classy operation lol






once the body and parts are all done we have to start banging out the cowl on the hood and get that whole thing painted

[91RSVert]

Ive seen paint jobs done in car ports wrapped in visqueen(sp) that ended up looking like pro jobs. Anything is possible

[chevymad]

Looks like a familiar setting.. quick push of everything to the side and paint away. You might consider a respirator though. A friend of mine died from the epoxy paint he breathed in. It hardened in his lungs and docs have no way of removing it. Not to mention the solvents and other chemicals.

[aaron_sK]

[BluFbdy]

See I'm torn on that subject, on one hand I wear it because paint fumes are strong and Id like to avoid getting woozy, on the other hand I'm beyond a shadow of a doubt positive that the shizzle I deal with at work will kill me before an hour around activator and some urethane lol regardless though I should wear it, I felt fine so I didn't, shame on me lol I'm about to head out and start wet sanding it down we want to be spraying the next coat by 1230/1

[RSFreak]

Looking good Bud! Can't wait to see it finished. My Camaro is going to Maaco within the next two months, as soon as James and I get the final details of body work done.

[BluFbdy]

So Eastwood single stage urethane ;awesome. Wet sanded it and shot the clear with a medium activator ;TERRIBLE! It was drying before it hit the paint. We have to strip it all off and shoot it with blue again, my painter is dead set on clearing it but mixing brands is a seriously risky busniness, were gonna wet sand it all flat, shoot it with blue wet sand it and buff it with the single stage. Eastwood clear is terrible. It was hitting the car like adhesive glue I used to use for caerpetong boxes. I'm calling them tomorrow to fix this mess. Hope their 100% guarentee carries some merit. Pissed off that we have to wet sand the clear and shoot the single stage again. The clear was just screwed from the get go. More to follow

[BluFbdy]

So as an update I gotta say Eastwood has hands down the best customer service I've seen in a very long tome, I talked with the painter this morning for about 20 mins about what happened so he said they will replace my entire order, a new gallon of clear, not the same he said the one I had was for California and never lays down properly, so he's sending me a much better clear with the activator, and another gallon of blue with the activator with expedited shipping. We have to DA the messed up clear smooth, shoot a color again then hit it with the proper clear

Absolutely awesome.

[BluFbdy]

Here's what happened, it was coming out of the gun practically dry and fully kicked off for over 75% of the spray pattern

[chevymad]

Wear the respirator!

And here's a tip too.. Make sure that each piece you paint seperately is lying in the same position as it will be on the car. If it's a horizontal piece make sure its horizontal not vertical. Otherwise when you bolt it back on it will be a different shade then the rest of the car... found this out the hard way. The doors on my truck were darker then the rest.. even though I used the same paint at exactly the same time.

[BluFbdy]

Once again...I wear them if I need to, limited exposure isn't a concern to me really. In any case there's already a plan in place, I'm not sure how your doors changed shades that's kind of odd, I've never seen a paint job come out of this shop that wasn't great, we did however learn how easily the urethane metallics can sag, which we had to wet sand and dust over to give it a consistent shade and appearance of the metallics

[chevymad]

Just seeing the way you were hanging the trunk lid. That's enough to change the color. If there's metal it will sit differently. If not the gravity will change the way the dye's lay. Even the rebound from hitting plastic vs metal will change the color of paint.

[BluFbdy]

That's where the dust coats came into play, after we laid the blue we dusted it with a few light coats, immediately hit the clear and it all bonded ....somewhat properly had the damnclear worked. However the passenger quarter was cut and buffed for the hell of it and it worked great. We haven't had any real concerns with shading of different parts so far, but ill keep an eye out for it

[Twilightoptics]

You wont see it until the car is all assembled and the parts are next to each other in their proper orientation.

[BluFbdy]

Well the only thing in question is the decklid then which again not a bog deal because that was just pissing away the excess paint, our only goal for that day was the body we had it up like that to spray the inside so I didn't open the hatch to a white decklid, the spoiler is being bolted onto it before we do the next coat and ill just lay it flat

[Whiskeychick]

Guess I should chime in here? Lol

Any exposure to isocynates (anyhardener ) is to much. , wear a and suit. Iso's love mucous membranes. You will not notice anything until one time its to late, it constantly builds up in your system until you become sensitized.

Next, dust coats will help with orientation of Metallics but spraying panels not how they will be orientated on the car causes different doi which will be very notable once assembled.

Also if you are wet sanding a single stage metallic careful not to cut to much of the metallic flakes or it will look choppy when you clear it.

What gun were you using for the clear? What air pressure? That's very odd looking would like to know what the paint guy said for my own curiosity

[BluFbdy]

We were very careful not to cut the metallics, as for pressure I'm not sure of the top of my head, when I spoke with the painter at Eastwood he said the low voc formula should not have been mixed with the hardener they sent us, which was their error, it also should have been reduced which they never mentioned, so when mixed 4:1 as per their instructions it kicked off wayyyy too fast, prime example from the time it took me to mix, fill the gun through the strainer, flint was messing with the clear trying to get it to lay down right, burned through one hopper, I mixed more and went to put it through the strainer it was already tacked to the point of clogging the strainer. The overspray was kicked off and touchable in a matter of 15 mins, swiped my hand over it and it just fell off in a dust. The clear before mixing had a thick viscosity. From what I've been told by the painter at Eastwood it was a fluke and an error on their part so theyre replacing my entire order with a proper clear that isn't a "California blend" as he put it. He was confused, their tech guy was confused as was their product manager. We had the proper temp, consistent mix, everything was correct, it came down to a product issue.

The gun is flints "trusty little guy" he uses for all his paint jobs, couple years old and ran him around 250. When we sat back to look over everything flint was in complete confusion and he said the only time he has seen this happen was years ago when he sprayed a clear that was 20*+ too hot for the activator and it caused it to kick off much faster than it should have, we used a medium for 75-85* and inside thermometer was reading 78*. At this point its knock it flat and spray it all over again which is really disappointing, had we just stopped at the single stage and buffed it I would have less visual depth but I would be sitting on the porch with a drink looking at my finally one solid colored car lol

[BluFbdy]

This was the 15 mins after we called it quits, took this pic from a video I shot to send to Eastwood. Look at the paper over the t tops, it hit the car like glue flinging from the gun and stood up like hair so I'm assuming it was 75% kicked off as it hit the surface then solidified the way it did because of the speed it exits the gun which in a normal situation would have atomized it, not shot it out like snot

[aaron_sK]

Would be a cool effect if that's what you were going for. Sort of like the velvet spray crap they did in the 70's.

[BluFbdy]

Yeah! Like flocking almost lol