Cascade Crew

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:03 pm Post subject:

The fuel pump fixed the hard starting and lean issue (obviously) but it was still throwing code 43. Replaced the knock sensor with the newer SD type and fixed that right up. Runs pretty good now (and it has heat!).

Speedo: Need to tap the ECM output and hook it into the cluster before condemning the gauge. Buffer box needs to be eliminated.

Oil pressure: Senders are sendering just fine but there's nothing on the other end. Need to convert from the early dual type to the later single type.

Idle: Seemed to be a bit high. Try resetting min. air and TPS.

Heater core: Did it seem to plug up any on the drive back?

Hatch: Time for a slammer. Show that ghost what's up. Laughing

Sorry for the s**t pictures, they were impromptu and I am a terrible photographer.

The Crew hauler strikes again Very Happy

Didn't get any pictures of the pump swap seeing as I was busy working, but I did grab a pic of the snowfall starting just as we finished up:

In addition to the fuel pump flea also got himself some pimpin' new rims:

Which resulted in new rims to roll bananer around on as well. Wink

The car was under cover while we were working. The snow in this shot was just what fell on it as we pushed it back into the shop.

flea · Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:43 pm Post subject:

It didn't seem to plug up on the way home, but the temp dropped down to about 100, it never got up to normal. I will check the coolant level tomorrow, sometimes it does that when it gets low. We know the T-stat housing is leaking a bit. If that doesn't take care of it then I'm thinking perhaps some crap plugged the T-stat. It is new OEM. I am leaning towards coolant level right now though, I've seen this gremlin before.

Sendering. . .you make yours up, I make mine up. anyway, what I really meant is the message isn't getting from A to B, but should be a simple enough fix.
You know, the sequence of the pictures makes it look like we took my perfectly good car and stripped everything out of it and painted it yellow.

BTW, if you haven't tried huffing ether out of a bucket, you should really consider it. . .no wait, that's bad advice. But if it should happen. Wink

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:48 pm Post subject:

Sounds like good news. If you need another pull down hatch motor/assembly I still have the other one that you can have.

Was it any fun to drive?

-Schultzy

Alphius · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:09 am Post subject:

Good deal!

Why the rim swap? Were the tires on the bananer-mobile better than flea's? I like the 91-92 style rims better than the 15's but if it was a style choice... well to each his own. Very Happy

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:39 am Post subject:

flea · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:25 am Post subject:

Was it fun to drive???

Well no, it wasn't.

It kept trying to get sideways on the freeway, the no name roads were just plain scary. And that was with good tires on it. I will say that there is a big difference between the old and new. Dry pavement should be fun, and I can't wait for dyno.

Mike, I don't think the pull down is the problem here, I think it is the release solenoid. It doesn't even make the click sound when the button inside is pushed, and the key doesn't do anything either. We checked the fuses and there were no problems there that would prevent it from opening. Right now it is closed and sealed, so I will leave it that way until spring, then me and that smart a$$ ghost go round 7. Smile

Alphius · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:54 am Post subject:

flea · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:17 am Post subject:

nope. good point. the key should still release it.

something musta popped loose on there. The part of that is supposed to release it just has a tab A in slot B arrangement. If that became dislodged, I guess it wouldn't work.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:48 am Post subject:

flea · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:55 am Post subject:

I'm not even completely sure how I'm going to get mine open to have a peek at whats going on. It's just not that important until we get to some drier and warmer days.
If it's going to be acting up, at least it's in the closed position.

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:19 pm Post subject:

Looks awesome. and glad the car is running better! And Aaron, good choice on rims... Now that I've go Iroc's i don't want any other wheels! lol

~JAKE

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:55 pm Post subject:

flea · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:52 pm Post subject:

the plastic cover is the only way i know of. problem is there are screws that hold it in on the top of that plastic trim piece.

project for a warmer time.

Alphius · Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:13 pm Post subject:

Yeah, the only way I would be able to think of to do that is to crawl over the back seat and use cutting/excessive force to remove the trim panel and then replace it. Razz

flea · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:38 am Post subject:

Alphius · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:56 am Post subject:

Don't leave your keys in it.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:14 am Post subject:

IIRC the PDL relays are right next to where the hatch release harness comes out of the main. Sounds like a short or bad ground in that courtesy wiring somewhere.

Did you or B pull any of that wiring apart when the engine harness was swapped?

flea · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:27 am Post subject:

Don't know if B did or not, I would not think he did but I was in watching cartoons.

This has happened to me prior to the swap too, my more serious idea, more serious than a ghost, is that some moisture might have gotten in there and locked me out.

I go with the light tongue-in-cheek ghost because I looked on TGO for suggestions because with 10 plus years and 129 thousand plus members, if this were even a rare problem someone would have posted up on it by now. I came up with nothing though. That leaves either a ghost, or I'm the first one to have this happen.
Ghosts are more fun than being the first on the beach.

Alphius · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 1:26 pm Post subject:

Serious suggestion:

How are your hinge pins/lubrication of door lock mechanism? I began having a problem with my Camaro where shutting the driver's door also caused the lock to, well, lock. It wasn't a PDL problem; it was entirely mechanical in nature. Some sort of interference between the latch mechanism and lock mechanism. This led to me locking my keys in my car a few times, but luckily I always have spare keys for my cars in my wallet. I took the door panel off and cleaned/lubricated every part of the door latch mechanism with white lithium grease, and the problem completely stopped.

I wonder if you may have a similar issue that manifests itself only rarely?

flea · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:11 pm Post subject:

Possibly.
I will check that out, doesn't hurt to lube things up every quarter century or so anyway.
Only thing is that both doors are locked, so whatever caused it, did both.
My spare key went to work with my wife today, or at least the knowledge as to that keys whereabouts did. Wallet is a pretty good place for it though, I have to admit.