Cascade Crew

[Wolffy]

ok folks, im starting to plan the motor & tranny build for my 88 Iroc w/ TPI
if all goes according to plan (yeah right) im gonna start this next Feb (tax time)

not sure if i should go with a 350 or 383, pros & cons both ways im sure
heres what i do know so far

my 6-71 blower is going on, the bottom end will all be forged
im thinking some decent aluminum heads, ideas?
im going EFI on this, probably gonna use the E-1001 from http://www.goodvibesracing.com, seems to be the best price for an EFI setup on a blower (id prefer using fuel rails, if there is such a setup).
if anyone else has ideas, im all ears
getting my headers ceramic coated & installed
gutting all the emissions & a/c
then maybe use the megasquirt II to controll it & do away w/ the stock ECM (or at least bypass it), tired of the SES light coming on at times (still using a burned chip from cows 07')
can anyone tell me if the stock fuel pump will still work?
im also needing to research some kind of intercooler, any ideas?

throw in your 02 cents worth folks, this is a street/strip car
thanxs

[Dewey316]

The stock fuel pump will be no where near enough for a setup like that. The 6-71 is going going to be very thirsty. I think on something like that, you may need to go the big external pump route, and hope and pray the pickup is big enough for the fuel needs. You may need to sump your tank, and some large lines to support the fuel needs. You are going to be moving a huge amount of air with that thing, and need to supply the fuel to match it. If you run high-pressure EFI, that raises the demands on the pump too. Remember, W = ΔPQ/η

Computer... what all do you need it to control, and how are you setting it up? If you don't know what form of injections you are going to run, picking a computer setup is hard. That said, I have not been terribly impressed with what I have seen from MegaSquirt, but there are plenty of guys who seem to be getting the job done with it. I would figure out what all you are running, and pick a computer that will handle the functions you need, and provide the inputs/outputs you need.

I know The Blower Shop sells intercoolers for the 6-71, but they are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, and remember with a 6-71, the intercooler is going space the blower at least a couple of inches higher.

[RSFreak]

[IROCDave]

A SC on any SBC is going to require more than engine mangagement. What diff , geras, DS, etc do you have in the budget?

[Wolffy]

im running a stock diff case w/ an eaton posi & 3.73 gears
i know i will need to upgrade the rear end in the future as well
by DS i assume your meaning dizzy, i believe w/ the SC i have to go w/ the old style dizzy

[Schultzy89GTA]

He was talking drivetrain Wolffy. DS was probably driveshaft.

As far as the 350 vs. 383, with all the aftermarket parts out there if you were going to build a 350 really not much more expensive (if at all) to get the extra cubes.

-Schultzy

[Wolffy]

ok Unca
the last time i checked into this was a couple years ago & then 383 stuff was about 50% more
and im gonna have my 700R4 rebuilt (yeah id prefer a stick for my hot rod, but with my left knee being bad, i gotta stick to an auto)

[RSFreak]

[Wolffy]

a 350 has to be bored .30 over to make it a 383 c.i.d. to my knowledge
the pistons are the same, there are 2 different rod lengths that can be used thou
the crank can be internally (like all 350's) or externally (as the 400's were) balanced

as far as DS goes so far its stock (i know it will need to be upgraded later)

[RSFreak]

I know. My question; are you going to bore the 350 even if you aren't going to stroke it? If so, the pistons will be the same whether its a 355 or 383.

[izcain]

Different pistons guys. Bore is the same but a 383 piston has a different compression height. You really have to decide if you want a 383 or 350 first cause about the only thing you can use for the build is the 5.7 rods if you wanted. You will need a small base circle camshaft and a few other items if you plan on running the stock style rods.

It can be internally or externally balanced but the external is going to be quite a bit cheaper you will find.

When prepping the block make sure to add some additional oiling to the front main bearing since 383's especially like to spin the front main bearing. Additional loads from the extra stroke.

A 5.7 rod motor will be a little better for a SC or nitrous application because the increase in piston speed away from TDC on the power stroke causes the chamber volume to increase more rapidly than in a long rod motor, this delays the point of maximum cylinder pressure for best effect with power adders.

a 6.0 "long rod" motor will place less stress on the bearings since of the reduced angle on the rotating assy.

[BigDaddyVu]

you could look at the wrist pin locations and rod sizes you can make it have a longer dwell at top dead center (hangtime) but you'll have it at the bottom aswell.

[RSFreak]

[chevymad]

Depends on how you build it. Most of the time when building a 383 you try to get away from the short stock length 400 rods. Those would use a regular piston.