Cascade Crew

[Kage87Z]

I got the plumbing straightened out but screwed up the prop valve (Messed up the threads on the rear brake part of the valve so it leaked like a sieve.)



So, I took it out altogether. Now, the master cylinder front fitting (the rear of the two) goes to the solenoid directly out of the master cylinder; the master cylinder rear fitting (The front fitting of the master cylinder) goes directly to the rear brake line.





The solenoid is wired and audibly comes on when the button is pushed.

I've bled the brakes, though I never heard any air or saw any bubbles while I was bleeding them. The brakes feel completely different then when it had the prop valve in; there's a lot of pressure when I hit the brakes; they don't act like a bad master cylinder or like there's air in the line.

The line locked brakes work.... some. Foe example, if I put the fronts on asphalt and the rears in grass, the traction is such that the car won't move and the slicks will spin in place.

Do you have to shut off the rear brakes altogether to get enough pressure to lock up the fronts? I noticed in Twilightopics pic that he's got an adjustable valve for the rear. Do you shut that all the way off to lock up the fronts? I've blocked PART of the rear brakes in an effort to keep more pressure in the front by putting a small plastic fitting into the brake line where they hook together from the master cylinder.

I couldn't figure this out last night, and am highly p.o.'d that I missed what looked like good racing conditions on the live feed at PIR. Any help would be appreciated.... thanks!

[Twilightoptics]

Adjustable prop valve is for rear bias. Limits selectable pressure so that the rear brakes don't lock up before the fronts.


You just pump 2-3 times, hit the line lock button, then release the foot. Front should grab.

My line lock instructions said it needs to be after the prop valve IIRC, thats why I ditched mine. Most people with after market brakes ditch the stocker in favor of an adjustable rear. Full line pressure to the front.


Stiffer the pedal the better. I've seen guys with stock brakes ditch the stock prop valve because it limits the pressure to the rear TOO Much.


What's with the Tee that's capped off? That's your limiting bit?

Since you've taken the prop valve out of the equation, the front and rear are two independent circuits now. Doing something to the rear pressure wont affect the front at all.

[Kage87Z]

[Kage87Z]

Bleeding the master cylinder got it done.

I needed to do that because I had let the front brakes reservoir run dry.