Cascade Crew

DBL_TKE · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:39 pm Post subject: Failed Emissions

...miserably. So right now I'm at...

Idle: HC: 703 CO: 0.9304
2500rpm HC: 596 CO: 2.1117

HC needs to be below 220ppm and CO needs to be below 1.0

And this is after I replaced: spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, rotor, oil, O2 sensor, PCV valve, and I put the cat back on. Timing is at 6*, TPS voltage is spot on. Disconnected CSI. I even put a can of denatured alcohol in with a 1/4 tank of gas. Car was above normal operating temperature too. I'm out of ideas. Why would my car be running so incredibly rich?

BTW my tags expired at the end of august so time is of the essence.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:25 pm Post subject:

How's it run?

Bad cat.

2 gallons of Methanol in 10gallons of gas.

Get the car hotter than hot.

Bad O2.

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:31 pm Post subject:

Temp sensor. O2. Pickup coil. Timing.

Took all four of those fixes to get the IROC past. With numbers that bad I'm with Paul on this one, though. O2 is shot.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:33 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:35 pm Post subject:

Crazy cammed Stealthram peoplez. Pokey pokey

DBL_TKE · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:43 pm Post subject:

My cars running better than ever. Remember I just ran my best 1/4 mile time ever. The cat has only been used once before and then it sat on the shelf until a week or so ago. It only goes on to pass emissions. I replaced the O2 sensor with a brand new one about 15 minutes before I hit the test center. I guess I could retard the timing even further, but I used to be at 10* advanced. I tried denatured alcohol but not Methanol. Where can I pick some that up at? BTW my HC were at 1100ppm before I did this tune up.

redlava · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:33 pm Post subject:

Check to see if the cat is good. You can check this by seeing if it gets really hot when the car is warmed up.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:26 am Post subject:

Need an Infrared gun to check cat temp. Should be about 300ºF at the entrance to the cat and 400ºF at the exit.

Your car needs longer to learn the O than 15min.

Factory TPI timing is 6º. Set it at 0º. Do atleast a 15min freeway type drive on your way to test.

I don't know in Portland/Aloha, but my shop carries Methanol. It's like 6 something a gal.

Bump your idle up to 800-900 in gear aswell.

What shape is your ignition coil in?
Hydro carbons are unburnt fuel...

Dewey316 · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:27 am Post subject:

I hear a rumor that 3 inline cats will also work....

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:31 am Post subject:

Alphius · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:40 am Post subject:

Obligatory picture.

Pro-tip: Move somewhere without emissions testing. Razz

Pretty sure all 3 of my vehicles would never pass if I did have to do emissions.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:10 am Post subject:

Every automotive textbook I've read said that your cat should be it the 1xxx* range and at least 300* hotter at the exit, no? My ignition coil? I'm sure it's fairly old, but I thought that they just either worked or they didn't? Is there any way to test for a leaking injector with them still on the car?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:09 am Post subject:

Those I'm guessing are internal pipe temps.

The temps I gave are reading the outside.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:33 am Post subject:

DBL_TKE · Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:00 pm Post subject:

I replaced my coolant temperature sensor and fixed numerous vacuum leaks and guess what? Still failed. Although I peered inside the intake by opening the throttle body and there is a thick layer of a gummy substance completely coating the entire intake, smells like fuel and oil. I guess I should seafoam my engine. I'll look into the injectors and pickup coil next, but if those don't do it then I'm truly stumped.

My new results are as follows:

483ppm 1.8252%
515ppm 2.2344%

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject:

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm Post subject:

I picked up a fuel pressure tester today and did the dead head test. It read about 20PSI when the pump primed, never bled off after keying off. When running it read about 36-38PSI. While the engine was running, I started unplugging sensors. When I unplugged the IAC nothing happened. So I picked up a new one. Adjusted it to spec. I started my engine and it idled at 1600RPM. So I then adjusted my Minimum Air to 400RPM while the IAC was disconnected. I plugged it back in, then attempted to adjust my TPS. What had both Derek and I baffled was that the voltage continuously jumped around from say 0.36V to 4.85V and everywhere in between. We adjusted to 0.57V the best we could. It seemed to run fine and idled at around 600RPM once all this was done. I took the car for a test drive and it drove very well for the first half. halfway through the drive I noticed that the car would drive itself. I stuck it in neutral and it would idle at 1600RPM again. Once I got home, I checked all connections and checked the TPS while the engine was running. It never gave a steady reading. I shut off the car then restarted it, and it idled like normal at 600RPM.

I have no clue what was going on. I never changed anything during this whole "episode." Is my TPS bad? When I unplugged it while it was running, nothing happened. Should the voltage be jumping around like this?

fiveoformula · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:40 pm Post subject:

Did it act up today at all?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:12 pm Post subject:

TPS should only vary in voltage when the throttle moves.

Unplugging those usually doesn't cause an immedate noticable change. When you unplug the IAC it just stays in position. Unplugging the TPS will put the car in limp home aswell and will run okay.

You checking the correct wires?

DBL_TKE · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:24 pm Post subject:

Yeah, I was checking the top wire and the middle wire. I picked up and installed a new TPS today. I had no problems whatsoever setting it. The voltage didn't jump around like the old one. The car runs smooth and fine as far as I can tell. I'll test my car again on Tuesday.

So I hooked up the fuel pressure tester again today just to double check the reading with a completely cold engine. After rereading everything I've posted in here I seem to have left out a huge detail. I've been having a cold start issue for the past couple months. My car will not start on the first try in the morning, or the 3rd or 4th for that matter. It always seems to try and catch but will just sputter and the car won't start without giving it gas. I redid the dead head test and with a quick "on-off" of the key it only reads 20 PSI. when I leave it in the on position it slowly rises to 40 PSI by the time it's done priming. Does this sound like the Fuel Pump is going out? I've been noticing that it sound very weak lately. without resetting the tester I noticed that the pressure bled off to 24PSI in about a 5 minute span. Is this normal or does it sound like I have a leaky injector? With the engine running, the pressure read 38-40PSI so that eliminates a bad FPR to cause my rich condition.