Cascade Crew

[Quasi-Traction]

Getting ready to do this.

I tried to do a little research on TGO and figure this out.

I have two relays. One has no pigtail, the other one is the one the mounted on the firewall, it has ports A-E.

A--Dark green wire
B--Black wire
C-Light Green wire
D--Black wire
E--nothing

I would assume that the black wires in ports B and D are Grounds, and the Green ones are my hot wires.

The fan itself has a plug with two large black 10ga wires. I would assume one is power and one is ground.

Would I just run one hot wire and one ground to the fan, and one hot wire and one ground to a switch?

I'm not very good with wiring, so any help is appreciated.

[aaron_sK]

lol, I just got done rewiring my fan relays this afternoon too.

On mine I have dual fans, so it's a little different, but this is the stock wiring setup:

[Dewey316]

What pins do those corespond with. Your relay should have pin number listings, you can tell what is what by those.

[Quasi-Traction]

Ok. Here's what plugs into the fan:

I have ports A and B

A---Black wire
B---Black/Red wire

[aaron_sK]

If you don't have any relay wires or harness left, it should be fairly simple to nick a junkyard one, or even build one yourself. All you would need is a thermal switch, and a fuse, and a relay.

[Dewey316]

I guess I am not sure what you are trying to find out. are you just trying to get the fan to turn on manual, or are you hooking in a temp switch also, etc.

[Quasi-Traction]

I'm thinking that's kind of what's going to have to happen....

I have the primary and what I would guess is the secondary relay, Two wires to the fan and the fan itself.

Its going to have to be a kind of stand-alone system that is either wired directly into the ignition, or to the battery.

[Quasi-Traction]

Think of it like this:

i'm trying to take a car that basically doesn't have any of the stuff to run an electric fan, and I want to run one to it.

If I have to power it with a switch inside, that's ok. I'd prefer one that runs of cylinder head temp to switch it on, but I'm not sure if I can do that with what I have.

[Dewey316]

DON'T power it through the switch.

What you need to do is wire it like the TBI cars. Pull up the TBI wiring diagram for the cooling fan in your haynes manual. Basicly, the thermo switch will ground the ciruit to close the relay, that turns the fan on. You can then put a manual switch inline with that, to ground that circuit manual, so you can overide the temp switch if you need.

--John

[Quasi-Traction]

hmm. I've heard not to power it through a manually controled switch is a good idea.

I'm thinking something simple like this would work;

[Dewey316]

So if this makes sense...

Basicly switched and fused 12v power will go to D, F will go to the temp switch in the head, and also a manual switch if you want.

E will get 12v FUSED power, and A will go to the + side of the fan (B), and then you ground the other side of the fan (A)


EDIT:
Ahh, you responded at the same time I did. Yes, you are basicly getting the idea, the termo switch will ground your trigger side of the relay, which will power the fan.

[Quasi-Traction]

I have to big 10ga wires, that I think are wired to my ignition source with the key in the "on" position.

I'll take the Multimeter to them tomorrow and see if they are. If they are a constant runner, wouldn't that make my fan run all the time, or would that be regulated by the temp switch? I know that Paul and I powered mikes Wideband control with them when i was tuning last year.

[Dewey316]

No, the fan will only get power when the relay is on, which will only happen when you temp switch gets to a certain point. You run 12v power (heavier gauge) to one side of the realy, the otherside to the fan. This keeps the fan from running all the time, because the fan only see's voltage one the relay has been triggered.

--John

[Al Hasse]

[Twilightoptics]

-4 wires.
-2 fat wires hook from fan to battery +.
-2 smaller wires.... Ign power to Small wire. Small wire to Block Switch AND to manual switch. From each switch run to ground.


Doesn't matter which fat wire is which and which smaller wire is which. You run a switch to control the relay. You don't run a manual switch to control the fan. See how fat those wires are? Lots of amperage running through that will burn up the switch.

Make sure the relay works.

[Al Hasse]

You cleared that up pretty good Paul. Kinda simplified version of what I was trying to say.

[Dewey316]

Chris called me last night during the posting. I figured out what was going on. His car had 2 relays , and he cut the 2nd half of the harness, the relay he is talking about doesn't have the fat wires. I think the relay he has left is probably the override for the AC turn-on. He is missing the harness part that had the heavy gauge wire that ran to the battery.

I'm stopping by over there on my way home, to get his squared away with how to run it. We are just going to put in a thermo switch and 1 relay so that it works for him.

--John

[RSFreak]

If anyone else is interested in doing this conversion, Schucks sells the relay and thermal switch kit for around $40. Turbo_jimi just bought one to replace the manual switch we installed when we converted his Z28 to an electric fan.

Hey, heres a helpful hint: if the fan blows the wrong direction, reverse the polarity. Common sense, I know, but you'd be amazed how many people can't figure that out.

[Twilightoptics]

Guess I never thought about that. LOL

Mine seems to do the job so it must work.

What's the temp on at for that schmucks kit?

[aaron_sK]

They have the Hayden adjustable one, or preset at 185*:

http://www.partsamerica.com:80/ProductList.aspx?PartType=843&PTSet=A