Cascade Crew

izcain · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:25 am Post subject:

If you can pull the motor yourself then resealing it will be cheap. The seal are not whats costly.... Now if it needs bearing rings and more then thats where it will climb in cost. It shouldn't be to hard to get your heater going in that skylark you were talking about.

I dont normally use the heater I just drive Ace Ventura style. Cool

aaron_sK · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:45 am Post subject:

izcain · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:23 am Post subject:

I work in a shop and have done junkyard swap outs before. Most of the time if you buy from a reputable scrap yard they are fine engine. I good tech should reseal things and check the engine over before installing it anyways. I always put new gasket and seals in before I even put the engine into the car. I would call the shop and ask them if they have any sort of worksmanship garuntee. I know I garuntee my work for 90 days (just worksmanship). As long as you pleasant with your shop im sure they will help you out. Badmouthing them is only going to make it to where they will never help you.

aaron_sK · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:55 am Post subject:

Your guarantee is only on your work though, right? Assuming that Danked's shop didn't replace the O-ring, are they liable if it screws up?

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:22 am Post subject:

no, if his $$$ spent did not include freshining up the engine then the shope is not liable for anything that goes wrong with the engine.

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:25 am Post subject:

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:59 am Post subject:

Danked · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:52 pm Post subject:

all me and wanarunhard agreed on is removal of my old engine, and installation of this other one. its possible he MIGHT have damaged something, as anyone could do. but i dont see him as doing it without at least telling me it happened because mistakes do happen. the whole point of having this engine installed is so that i could drive it while i was rebuilding my other 3.1 and learning something new. i was also going too completely rebuild it with high performance everything. thats what i wanted, a NEW fast v6 in a camaro, then i can say i did it, and not many before me have. i think since now i have 2 3.1's, i can tear them both apart, and swap parts until i have an engine that will actually run right for more than a month. but steve, if you are reading this, i do not blame you for damaging this engine. but i will be talking to you within the next couple days, i just wanna know if when you were putting this engine in if you noticed the oil pan was creased? if so, i can blame the guy at the junk yard i bought it from, however, i did buy this engine on ebay, and it was on the usa east coast. so i dont see how there can still be anything i can do about it. how can i have piston slap / rod knock if i havent run more than half a quart low on oil? i learned from my other engine to check it every half hour or so. and not once, has it been over half a quart low. thanks for all the info guys.

izcain · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:07 pm Post subject:

Piston slap is an inherint problem on the 3.1 - 3.4 litre engines. GM still claims to this day that it is normal but I have taken engines apart these engines when I worked @ GM and they showed some signs of scuffing....... Im sure the shop you got the work done at will help you out!

aaron_sK · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:30 pm Post subject:

Couple of things:

Everybody puts more money into their car than it's worth. It's easy to say "oh, I spent so much on my car I could have bought three better ones," but every car needs money, and you can't do anything but try and recoup it by the fact that you do get transportation.

That said, there is a cutoff when one of two things happen:
1) The car continues to have failure after failure despite constant repair, and is becoming a money sink without any improvement.

2) The amount of money needed to put the car where you want it outweighs the amount of money you would need to spend to buy a car that is already where you want.

Right now you seem to need a full rebuild, and a new tranny. Even at the very lowest prices, your car is still a couple grand away from even being remotely drivable. For that cash you can get a decent 3rd gen V6, or a beaten 3.4 4th gen.

As for the oil, it's not just running out of oil that's the problem. If you run the engine continually with a leak like that, the pressure will drop even if your oil level is normal, since the pump is basically pumping oil down the back of the engine.

Oh and try not to use the word "fast" and the word "V6" in the same sentence without using the word "turbocharger" or the word "bottle". Razz

</rant>

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:15 pm Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:08 pm Post subject:

Stepping in as Moderator here. Please keep this to tech guys. Danked if you want tech help go ahead and ask questions, if you want to talk bout the job wanarunhard did, don't post it here. I too work in a shop and tend to lean to the shop side of things. Where I work, if the customer brings his own parts, he's on his own for warranty. However, if we look over his problem and see its our fault, we've always taken care of it. This should have been discussed before the work. If it wasnt you both know better now.

Please keep all further discussion to how to fix it, not who messed it up.

BTW, I have a v/6 700r4 that is in working condition. I've tried to give it away before and no one will come get it. If you end up needing one perhaps we could meet at a gathering. For a freebie though, I'm not going to haul it, or ship it unless i'm allready making a trip. I'll warn you now though, if you install a new trans make sure you flush the cooler and lines or the new trans will be junk in no time at all too. That won't be the fault of whoever sold it to you either.

turbo_jimi · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:21 pm Post subject:

RSFreak's 2.8L was going through alot of oil, until we replaced his distributor (needed it anyways), with new O ring and we fabricated a gasket for good measure and we made sure to tighten the distributor hold down very well. Major leak solved and went from probably using a quart a day to having not needing to add any oil in a month. Very Happy

izcain · Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:00 pm Post subject:

[quote="Stepping in as Moderator here. Please keep this to tech guys. Danked if you want tech help go ahead and ask questions, if you want to talk bout the job wanarunhard did, don't post it here. I too work in a shop and tend to lean to the shop side of things. Where I work, if the customer brings his own parts, he's on his own for warranty. However, if we look over his problem and see its our fault, we've always taken care of it. This should have been discussed before the work. If it wasnt you both know better now.

Please keep all further discussion to how to fix it, not who messed it up."]

Amen to that!........

Danked · Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:26 pm Post subject:

would a majority of you guys recommend i jack up the front, and tear the entire bottom half of the engine down and just simply rebuild it, or contact the people i bought it from, tell them of the situation, and ask for a replacement? if i do tear it down, what would most of you agree on it actually being the problem

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:34 pm Post subject:

there is no way of telling you what is wrong with your car based on the non spacific informaiton you have given without us actually seeing it. personally i would start over, cut my losses and start from scratch. just my .02
~JAKE

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:52 am Post subject:

I swear dude....

If the oil leak is coming from the upper rear of the engine, pulling your oil pan will do NOTHING, mainly due to the fact that the oil pan is NOT located on the upper rear of the engine!

Like Rodney just said, before wasting time and money, find out exactly where the leak is coming from, and work from there. As several people have already told you, the most likely oil leak spots are in the upper end, and would not even involve removing more than the intake plenium, and maybe the intake manifold.

Xophertony · Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:59 am Post subject:

hell, to see if it's leaking from the dizzy you don't have to pressure wash anything, if there is oil that hich up that is realy the only place it could be coming from.

Danked · Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:04 pm Post subject:

ok thanks guys, i just had a junkyard come and haul it away. kept the wheels just as an old memory. and im not apart of this forum anymore. too much shizzle talking and im sick of it. late