Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics

Looks like it might be too low and I should take a shim out. There are only two tiny shims in there.

Old Pinion

chevymad · Posted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 10:42 am Post subject:

Ya.. looks like you need to change allright. The last rear I did was a bugger and I had to pull the pinion shim 4 times before i got it right. In the end 0.003 was the difference I needed.

Randy's ring and pinion sent a really nice set of instructions. Too bad I left it at work, but it's alot more real world. Doesnt assume you have every specialty tool known.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:14 pm Post subject:

So I took off the smallest of the two shims which looked atleast 2 times larger than .003 based on feeler gauge thickness.

This was the result. I noticed on this pinion the depth is 3.10 and the old one was 3.13.

Hows this look?

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:23 pm Post subject:

still looks like you could still take a hair out to me, looks like it making drive contact high on the ring gear, and there still s bit of room on the inside.

Brandon is the expert though, but both examples from richmond, show the patter should be on the very inside edge of the right gear.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:29 pm Post subject:

The Ideal Pattern FYI is the "A" pattern.
And if it's contacting HIGH now.. then I need to put a smaller shim than the one I took out... back in.

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:33 pm Post subject:

Yes.

So if you took out a .006 shim, then put in maybe a .003 or .004.

I was thinking backwards on my last posting, you need a lower pinion depth = adding shim.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:16 pm Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:49 pm Post subject:

Having a hard time seeing it in the first pic. Use a bit more pressure holding the pinion and ring to make a better mark.

Here's the instructions from Yukon that I like.

http://www.ringpinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf

You'll notice that he says its impossible to set the heel to toe pattern correctly. But you need to make sure the face to flank pattern is right. Notice how weird the acceptable patterns can be.

To me it looks like your pattern matches the pinion too close diagrams. Make sure you are also setting backlash and proper preload before you check the pattern too, or it will change on you.

scott in wa. · Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:12 am Post subject: gears

Oh man,
I just bought a total package from Randys gear.
It will be here today.
I was going to do it my self but after seeing this thread Iam not sure.
Rear is out on the ground so it should be better than in the car.
10 bolt stuff.

How much do they charge, if I take the hole rear end in to have this done ??? just and est is fine.

thanks
scott

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:41 am Post subject:

Are you telling me I only torque the pinion down to 12-14 inch lbs?!

Or am I understanding pinion bearing preload wrong?

There is a shim between the gear face on the pinion and the big pinion bearing....

Then there is the solid crush sleeve with shims..

I change the shims at the solid crush sleeve for depth right? Or is it the between the gear face and bearing?

If so I might have to just pay someone to do this cause it's $10 to pull the bearing and put it back on.

:edit:

So I think I figured it out... Pinion preload is the crush sleeve/shims

Pinion depth is between the bearing and head of the pinion.

What a damn PITA.

I wonder.... if the old pinion said 3.13 the new is 3.10. So I think I need to take out .003 but I'll go talk to the driveline shop today and find out and have them put a different shim on.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:05 am Post subject:

Scott.... look for about $200-250 for the install.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

chevymad · Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:27 pm Post subject:

Scott it's usually not too bad. But every once in awhile you get this.

Paul, yes you have to change the one between the pinion bearing and pinion.. the other spacers are for the preload, do as Rod says on those.

I've done many rear ends and most just used the original shim. The last one I did though was a tough one, just like this one looks to be. Much easier if you have your own press, even then you may end up buying a 2nd pinion bearing. The last rear I did, I tweaked the new bearing pressing it off and had to replace it again.

You can also buy the pinion depth setting tool, which should help you zero right in on the correct shim right off the bat. Deal is you usually get lucky without it, so it only really pays off when you get one of these tough ones.