Cascade Crew

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:32 pm Post subject: Stall converter questions

Alright guys, now that I have some time to work on it, I've been laying out exactly what I would need for either a buit 700R4, or T-56 swap into the IROC. Right now I'm looking at what kind of stall I want to run if I do go with an auto.

Right now my current converter is stalling at around 2K. I don't know what brand or size it is, or whether or not it's a full lockup (although I think it almost certainly is).

How much of a difference would I notice if I jumped up to a 2400~2800 converter? I'm especially wondering how much of a change I would notice in ET's and mileage.

Also, while I'm asking, what if I dropped for a 9.5" converter (lockup so my milage wont tank). That $500-$750 price tag makes me wonder exactly how much of a difference I would notice. Is the lack of rotational mass worth it?

Specs: Bolt-on L98, 3.73, 700R4, for sure not more than 250hp/350tq at the flywheel.

Thanks -- Aaron

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:16 pm Post subject:

Buy a Continental or Coan. Around $350, locks up when the ECM says to. Best converters out there minus the Vigilante *but thats around ($900)

Get a stall that either company recommend. It's all based on your peak torque, and how much.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:40 am Post subject:

If all you cared about were 1/4 drag times then you would want a high quality converter (not cheap) with a rated flash speed near your peak torque. Going from a 2000 rpm flash speed to 2600 rpm is a major change. The car will feel totally different off the line. All I can say is find somebody with a car like that and drive it. You may or may not want those type of characteristics. Especially if you drive the car year round.

I might suggest that the gears are all you need for now. You don't have a quick revving engine and it won't really take advantage of the benefits a more aggressive torque converter can provide. But one thing for certain is that you will leave the line harder with more consistency using a well tuned auto tranny than a manual. It's no contest.

My personal preference is an automatic tranny with a manual valvel body for all lower gears and full auto function in high gear. I also like to have a lockout against overspeed just in case I accidently shift down when I shouldn't. It will save your engine from damage to overspeed. This is the setup I had in my '68 El Camino. It had a ZZ4 350 engine, TH350 tranny, Holeshot 2800 converter, and 3.73 gears with 28-inch tall tires. Nice street performance setup. Too mild to be competitive on the drag strip.

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:55 pm Post subject:

I'm thinking at this point it would be best to leave the current stall in there and run with it, then if I decide to swap the engine out later, I can change it then.