Cascade Crew

aaron_sK

Decided to blow a sunny day off working on the car, so I pulled the wires, cap, and roter off the Camaro. Both the cap and the roter were shot to hell-- $40 for new Blue Streak stuff. Mad

Pulled the timing back to stock 6* (was at TDC). Tried it at 10* BTDC, but it ran like sh** at idle. Probably the Hypertech chip, since that bugger tends to push it up pretty far.

Wires were in good shape, except for the coil end of the coil wire, which was corroded with white and red crap (not rust red, more like dried blood red). Cleaned it out with a rag, and wiped off the coil, but it was still a loose fit. Got gas at 76 (since when is $3.29 per gal. for Premuim a good deal? Evil or Very Mad

), and the damn car wouldn't start. Battery had power, could hear the fuel pump spin up, but the starter didn't kick in.

Pushed it out of the way, and fiddled with the coil wire again. Got it to start by swapping the coil wire end-to-end so the bad end was at the cap. Ran good till I got it home, but when I restarted it to pull it all the way in and park, it was running like s*** again, although some of that is the rich condition problems I've been having.

So here's the jist of it:

1) Can I just swap a coil wire from any old V8 setup? Right now I'm running 8.8 Accel plug wires-- pretty beefy stuff. I doubt I can just buy a single wire.

2) I'm sure the 80*+ weather is a lot of it, but goddamn my intake is getting hotter than hell. Is there any downside to a TB bypass like in this TGO article? http://www.thirdgen.org/coolantbypass

3) Passenger side rear brake hose is leaking (at least I think it's the hose). Is it worth it to drop for Earl's braided stuff, or should I just slap some OEM rubber ones on there? I'm not much for smoke shows, but I drive (and stop) hard.

PonchoTA · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:19 pm Post subject:

1. Yes, wire is wire. Check it with an ohmmeter first though, shouldn't have any more than abouot 200 ohms per foot. Less = better.

2. Dunno, others on here know more, they will chime in!

3. Definitely go for the Earl's braided!! You will not regret it!! Just stay away from Russel's fittings, they've been known to crack and split with pressure applied. That's the last thing you want when you are trailbraking into a hot corner!! The cost differential is not THAT high!

My 2 pennies!

iansane · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:56 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:01 pm Post subject:

iansane · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:03 pm Post subject:

Well even for the stockers you're looking 10-15 a hose, x 5 hoses...

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:12 pm Post subject:

All this bearing in mind that I make like $700 a month. Rolling Eyes

Next couple of days I'm going to pull both back tires and inspect both calipers. I did it when I bought the car, and the pass side rotor has always looked a little bit discolored, like fluid leaked onto it at one point. I hope it's not leaking from the piston or some BS.

iansane · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:17 pm Post subject:

If the fluids leaked onto the rotors then it's probably also ruined the pads. Sad

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:23 pm Post subject:

I wasn't sure if it was an old leak though. The pads looked good from the outside. I probably should have done a more thurough exam the last time I was under there though.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:26 pm Post subject:

RE: TB coolant bypass.

the TB coolant line has one purpose: to prevent your throttle plates and throttle body from getting ice on them in cold weather. unless you live in an area that experiences below freezing temperatures constantly this is a non issue. i am talking Alaska, not Washington. bypass that sucker. throw the hose away, let out an evil laugh and never look back.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2320

On my disc rear end it is solid line all the way to the caliper. Only rubber is from the chassis to the rear end.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:29 pm Post subject:

Hmm... I could have sworn it had rubber lines. Now I'm not so sure.... Confused

Xophertony · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:32 pm Post subject:

my disc rear has braided steel lines. i am running 89+ rear brakes.

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:34 pm Post subject:

Okay, now I've got an interesting problem.... I know my rear is not stock, so it's possible that they shortcutted it and left whatever disks were on the new axle.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:50 pm Post subject:

if they are different form your stockers then they are the 89+ brakes and are better. that would be some shortcut.

oh, unless the axle was from a lesser vehicle..... Crying or Very sad

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:54 pm Post subject:

It would have been. It's a BW 9, I know that for sure. I was told it was 3.73, but I haven't checked the code on it. Sure as hell feels like a 3.73 though. Wink

If that's what it is, it would have come off like an 85/86 HO 305 w/T5, right?

Xophertony · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:59 pm Post subject:

it could have come off of anything 89 or before. if it has PBR calipers it came of an 89.

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:59 pm Post subject:

I think you are right. Not sure if any f-bodies other than the L69 5 speeds got the 9 bolt 3.70 rear.

-Schultzy

aaron_sK · Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 12:10 pm Post subject:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=4294924496+115+4294839344

WTF? Earl's wants 100 bucks for a set of four, but only charges $10-$20 for each line? Shrug

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 2:52 pm Post subject:

Good news and bad news. So I guess I'm not going to ever win them all. Rolling Eyes

Good news: Dropped all of $3.25 for a new 8mm coil wire at Baxter's (all the ones in my Dad's garage were sh**). Car runs great now, no stumble at idle, or any other BS. Summit wanted $16 for a new Accel coil wire kit.

Good news 2: The rear brake lines are in great shape. Also, Rodney was right, they are solid metal all the way up to the caliper, so I don't need the Earl's kit, at least in back.

Sorta good news: The rear axle has absolutely no markings of any kind, except for 'L23C7' and the BW logo, both of which are on the bottom of the differential. After being a bit dissapointed with that, I decided to try the old trick by spinning the rear axle with the tranny in neutral-- sure enough, just under 4 turns of the driveshaft for ever turn of the axle = 3.73. Still not sure if it's Posi though. Sad

Really bad news: Passenger side brake caliper is leaking like a mofo from the piston. The inside of my nice single-vein IROC rim is coated in road dirt and brake fluid, my pads are all gunked up, and the inside of my tire is covered in it too. It only seems to leak when the brakes are on though, which is a bit of a good thing.

1) Do I have to replace the calipers in pairs, or should I replace just the one side, or should I replace the passenger side caliper, and the driver's side shoes (they're getting down to about 1/3")?

2) Are all pre '89 rear disks identical? Haynes seems to think so. I'm still not sure if the calipers I have on there right now are from the original axle, or from this new one.

Calipers are marked '97' and '426' on the pass. side, and '106' and '426' on the drivers, although I doubt that means anything.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 10:20 am Post subject:

The rear disc's on the BW 9 bolts should be the same from 82-88. 1989 was the first year they used PBR calipers. I don't know much about the 10 bolt disc rears.