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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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This cam swap has not been fun at all and has run me to the end of my patience. A lot of that is the learning curve of a first timer, but the other half is me noticing things and then that makes me have to research that topic... blah blah blah... tons of time lost and more frustration because of all the bad info on the internet.
The short story is I replaced my timing chain with a IWIS single roller because my old chain was too slack, and I am ordering shorter pushrods tomorrow. Should be making legitimate progress from this point on.
The old pushrods were only .025" longer but it was enough to unseat the valves and almost make contact to the piston. The shorter pushrods have correct lifter preload but piston to valve clearance is still pretty tight with somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.068" to 0.070". Still trying to decide if it is necessary to advance the cam or if I just leave it. I'd have to use an adjustable timing set and pull the heads again to accurately degree the cam. I have learned by trial and error -- LOTS of trial and error -- that it is impossible to accurately degree the cam with the heads on.
Haven't even touched the brakes yet. I still have to build out new hard lines. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:49 am Post subject: |
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Being "particular" got the better of me and I pulled the head again to degree the cam. Good thing I did. My crank and timing set are phased a bit different and the cam was retarded by quite a bit. I swapped out the LS2 cam sprocket for a Cloyes Hex-A-Just and advanced the cam 5 degrees just to be equal to what should have been straight up.
I'm wondering if the phasing and the long pushrods are why the old cam didn't run right. Who knows, I'm not putting it back in to find out! I do hope this new setup runs like a bat out of hell though. |
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izcain 9sec Club
Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 1306 Location: Port Angeles WA
1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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QwkTrip wrote: | Being "particular" got the better of me and I pulled the head again to degree the cam. Good thing I did. My crank and timing set are phased a bit different and the cam was retarded by quite a bit. I swapped out the LS2 cam sprocket for a Cloyes Hex-A-Just and advanced the cam 5 degrees just to be equal to what should have been straight up.
I'm wondering if the phasing and the long pushrods are why the old cam didn't run right. Who knows, I'm not putting it back in to find out! I do hope this new setup runs like a bat out of hell though. |
Good to see you degreed it since I was thinking to myself in the post before " uh oh I know how not degreeing the cam can go" I had that happen to me before and now degree everything! I got lucky on it since it was not close in tolerance. This other stuff I have built something surely would have hit lol _________________
1983 Z28 383 + 201ci more = New Heart for this season!
9.17 @ 148 |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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QwkTrip wrote: | ...all the bad info on the internet.
The short story is I replaced my timing chain with a IWIS single roller because my old chain was too slack, and I am ordering shorter pushrods tomorrow. Should be making legitimate progress from this point on.
The old pushrods were only .025" longer but it was enough to unseat the valves and almost make contact to the piston. The shorter pushrods have correct lifter preload but piston to valve clearance is still pretty tight with somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.068" to 0.070". |
You should NOT be setting piston/valve clearance or camshaft lift with pushrods. The pushrods need to be sized based on the geometry of the rocker arm itself. Longer pushrods are not going to open the valve more than shorter ones.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/camshaft_basics_rocker_sweep-jpg.2847829/
Pushrod length determines were the rocker rides on the valve stem ONLY. _________________ A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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This ain't small block Chevy.
* Yes, long push rods will open the valve.
* Yes, you do need to use pushrods to check PTV.
* You need a solid lifter and push rod to degree the cam, unless you happen to have a dial indicator with a very long plunger that can reach the body of the lifter.
* Pushrod length is chosen based on lifter preload. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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chevymad Master B
Joined: 11 Jan 2004 Posts: 5472
1987 Pontiac Formula
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Difference is you aren't adjusting the height of the actual rocker arm since it's mounted on a pedestal.
In classes that limit cam lobe lift, shorter pushrods will actually increase lift slightly on a motor with adjustable rockers. |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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My bad. Didn't realize they were shaft mounted rockers. Ideally solid lifter to degree sbc cam too. Or get creative with the dial.
I retract my previous statement.
Btw, pushrods are dumb. _________________ A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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Ya, we all know you like to play with your wankel. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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izcain wrote: | Good to see you degreed it since I was thinking to myself in the post before " uh oh I know how not degreeing the cam can go" |
Ya, I think the engine should be a whole new beast now. Those were pretty major things corrected. Probably explains why the old cam didn't dyno or idle well.
By the way, my old cam is for sale if anybody is interested. It is a horsepower cam for a LS1 or 6.0L. http://cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10537 |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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QwkTrip wrote: | Ya, we all know you like to play with your wankel. |
And turbos.
And overhead cams. _________________ A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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Finally fired up the car tonight..... only took 3 weeks!!!
Still can't drive it though. Now I need to do the brake lines. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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The engine idles sooooo much better now!!! Dropped idle speed from 1150 rpm to 950 rpm with no ill effects, and it hasn't even been tuned yet for the cam.
Something good happened. |
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Dewey316 The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:31 am Post subject: |
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Nice! Forward progress. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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Got the brake lines together. I guess I'm getting better at making hard lines because it wasn't as difficult this time and I made very few mistakes. Still one of my least favorites things to do though! Did the first air bleed tonight and tightened fittings here and there to stop leaks. Needs another bleed tomorrow and one last check of each threaded joint.
My goal was to do away with as many adapters as possible. I used a Wilwood adjustable prop valve with inverted flare fittings (no NPT adapters). It also has dual outlets for front brake lines so that eliminated the front line tee, too. Downside is that it is only compatible with 3/16" line so I had to use a couple adapters where 1/4" line used to be. And lastly, I used only Brake Quip fittings everywhere to improve my odds of success. Let's hope my brake woes are over!
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aaron_sK Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006 Posts: 8834 Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to see you opt for the Wilwood prop valve, I think it will be a good unit for you and it sounds like you've got the rest of it on the run. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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Car has a more aggressive sound than before. It's sweet. Just too loud for my ears, that's all. My ears hurt now. I have to do something about that before I get hearing damage.
New cam drives a little better than before. Hard to tell if it is more powerful or not but there is a lot of rubber on the roads around town today. I thought I grew up by now but the fact is I drive this car harder than any car I have ever owned!
Brakes.... not so good yet. Obviously air in the system and my wife has only so much patience to help me with it. |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Dewey316 The Lama
Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:38 am Post subject: |
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i like it, sounds good. It doesn't seem **that** loud. :p |
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QwkTrip 11sec Club
Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 3942 Location: Peoria, IL
1989 Pontiac Firebird
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:44 am Post subject: |
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It's loud when you step on the 'go' pedal. The car does a screaming howl on throttle. Hurts ears. |
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