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Midnight Sun
Member
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 606
Location: Ellensurg, Washington Name: Eric Haugland
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 Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 4:23 pm Post subject: Truck Engines |
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What is the main difference between a 350 for a truck and a 350 for a smaller car.
I know there is usually a difference in lift and duration or what not.
But is their any pros/cons to swapping to an engine that used to be in a truck?
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Demon
12sec Club
Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1189
Location: You're not worthy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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heads, cam, occasionally intake, and exhaust manifolds.
pro's : usually built for torque
con's : probably want to rebuild it if its a high miles engine |
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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Alot of truck engines are 4 bolt mains (stronger) while alot of car engines are 2 bolt mains.
4 bolt good for hipo! |
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Demon
12sec Club
Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1189
Location: You're not worthy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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or you could just get splayed main caps and call it good since it'd be equally if not a bit stronger overall than a stock 4 bolt  |
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84transam383
Banned
Joined: 25 Jan 2004
Posts: 431
Location: bend, or
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Demon wrote: | | or you could just get splayed main caps and call it good since it'd be equally if not a bit stronger overall than a stock 4 bolt |
yeah,but the cost involved in doing that most of the time isnt worth it on a street motor..
factor in the cost of the splayed main caps,the bolts,and having it line bored,it WAY offsets the cost of just finding a stock 4 bolt block..
btw,i have about a half dozen 350 4 bolt 010 020 high nickel blocks most all std bore,PM ME if yua need one.
but overall,truck motors are the better starting point,as far as blocks are concerned,most of the heads are low flow TQ heads with small valves
and btw,no matter what it came out of,considering a rebuild is a smart idea,full rebuild kit from northern with speed pro hyperutectic pistons is only 250 bucks,another 200 for machine work{depending on the block you find} and you have a motor thats good to go for another 100k miles if treated right. |
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Demon
12sec Club
Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1189
Location: You're not worthy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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| 84transam383 wrote: | | Demon wrote: | | or you could just get splayed main caps and call it good since it'd be equally if not a bit stronger overall than a stock 4 bolt |
yeah,but the cost involved in doing that most of the time isnt worth it on a street motor..
factor in the cost of the splayed main caps,the bolts,and having it line bored,it WAY offsets the cost of just finding a stock 4 bolt block..
btw,i have about a half dozen 350 4 bolt 010 020 high nickel blocks most all std bore,PM ME if yua need one.
but overall,truck motors are the better starting point,as far as blocks are concerned,most of the heads are low flow TQ heads with small valves
and btw,no matter what it came out of,considering a rebuild is a smart idea,full rebuild kit from northern with speed pro hyperutectic pistons is only 250 bucks,another 200 for machine work{depending on the block you find} and you have a motor thats good to go for another 100k miles if treated right. |
unless you know what you're doing and don't have any problem with it or can learn what you're doing...
its not that hard to do...
the caps and bolts aren't exactly a bank breaker either for that matter...
and if you're going to rebuild it and have machine work done to it (IE have the block decked, everything cleaned up, etc) why not just have them do the damn caps as well?  |
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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| With splayed caps I think he's right, it' may be best to line bore or alignhone(a line hone) |
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84transam383
Banned
Joined: 25 Jan 2004
Posts: 431
Location: bend, or
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Demon wrote: | | 84transam383 wrote: | | Demon wrote: | | or you could just get splayed main caps and call it good since it'd be equally if not a bit stronger overall than a stock 4 bolt |
yeah,but the cost involved in doing that most of the time isnt worth it on a street motor..
factor in the cost of the splayed main caps,the bolts,and having it line bored,it WAY offsets the cost of just finding a stock 4 bolt block..
btw,i have about a half dozen 350 4 bolt 010 020 high nickel blocks most all std bore,PM ME if yua need one.
but overall,truck motors are the better starting point,as far as blocks are concerned,most of the heads are low flow TQ heads with small valves
and btw,no matter what it came out of,considering a rebuild is a smart idea,full rebuild kit from northern with speed pro hyperutectic pistons is only 250 bucks,another 200 for machine work{depending on the block you find} and you have a motor thats good to go for another 100k miles if treated right. |
unless you know what you're doing and don't have any problem with it or can learn what you're doing...
its not that hard to do...
the caps and bolts aren't exactly a bank breaker either for that matter...
and if you're going to rebuild it and have machine work done to it (IE have the block decked, everything cleaned up, etc) why not just have them do the damn caps as well? |
so your saying someone should bust out the drill and do it themselves or something? this is NOT something the average joe should do,and further more ITS NOT needed,yeah sure its stronger, but unless your ognna be putting out over 500 hp and spinning it too the moon,its pointless. im simply saying the cost of splaying the caps and making a 2 bolt a 4 bolt isnt needed,in most cases a 2BOLT block is more then enough for most. and if you need more strength,find a 4 bolt block,there plentiful and cheap. |
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Demon
12sec Club
Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1189
Location: You're not worthy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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| 84transam383 wrote: | | Demon wrote: | | 84transam383 wrote: | | Demon wrote: | | or you could just get splayed main caps and call it good since it'd be equally if not a bit stronger overall than a stock 4 bolt |
yeah,but the cost involved in doing that most of the time isnt worth it on a street motor..
factor in the cost of the splayed main caps,the bolts,and having it line bored,it WAY offsets the cost of just finding a stock 4 bolt block..
btw,i have about a half dozen 350 4 bolt 010 020 high nickel blocks most all std bore,PM ME if yua need one.
but overall,truck motors are the better starting point,as far as blocks are concerned,most of the heads are low flow TQ heads with small valves
and btw,no matter what it came out of,considering a rebuild is a smart idea,full rebuild kit from northern with speed pro hyperutectic pistons is only 250 bucks,another 200 for machine work{depending on the block you find} and you have a motor thats good to go for another 100k miles if treated right. |
unless you know what you're doing and don't have any problem with it or can learn what you're doing...
its not that hard to do...
the caps and bolts aren't exactly a bank breaker either for that matter...
and if you're going to rebuild it and have machine work done to it (IE have the block decked, everything cleaned up, etc) why not just have them do the damn caps as well? |
so your saying someone should bust out the drill and do it themselves or something? this is NOT something the average joe should do,and further more ITS NOT needed,yeah sure its stronger, but unless your ognna be putting out over 500 hp and spinning it too the moon,its pointless. im simply saying the cost of splaying the caps and making a 2 bolt a 4 bolt isnt needed,in most cases a 2BOLT block is more then enough for most. and if you need more strength,find a 4 bolt block,there plentiful and cheap. |
who said just bust out the drill?
either a: you research the hell out of it and do it yourself and know the basic fundamentals of where to tap an engine block and what pitch for the threads you'll need, etc, then yeah given the research and the time put into it, it can pay off.
or b: since you have to have machine work done on the block regardless, why not get that done in the process?
why does it matter what amount of power and what amount of rpm's you're going to have? theres always the potential for more so why limit yourself from the start? if you're going to learn and want to do something correctly, do it the right way the first time and save yourself some headache...
neccessary for current application? maybe not.
but if you're young and want to do it right and have peace of mind?
I say do it.
what have you got to lose aside from a few more bucks from the pocket?
besides, you can buy the caps already done and just get the block machined
but thats just my opinion
i like peace of mind.
and i like having something to work with later instead of saying "meh, i want more power, time for a new block!" (ok the only time i'd say that is when the block has been taken pretty much to its limits, then it really would be time for a new one) |
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BigDaddyVu
12sec Club
Joined: 31 Jan 2004
Posts: 1118
Location: Spokane, Wa
1986 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Two bolt should be fine unless your running a blower with nitro and 2 foot wide tires. 4 bolt were made for trucks with hauling capacity the actual 4 bolt mains are used to help obsorb the shock load and exsessive throttling with no load ( putting the car in neutral a guning it every sec) very bad. |
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84transam383
Banned
Joined: 25 Jan 2004
Posts: 431
Location: bend, or
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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 @ aarons post. |
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