Cascade Crew

chevymad · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:15 pm Post subject:

Better equipped then most of the shops out there.

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:37 pm Post subject:

Coincidently, I have an older, never used, Cal-Van 163 double flaring kit for sale.
http://www.cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=119165#119165

QwkTrip · Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 3:30 pm Post subject:

Dang it! I got most the harness wrapped and realized one of the ground wires was wrapped up in it. Laughing

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 12:05 am Post subject:

I swear, I must be one of the most unlucky people to do an LSx swap. Seems like not a single damn thing fits right! This time I can't get the O2 sensor installed because it won't go through the hole. Cause found....

I had to pull the driver side header out of the vehicle so I can grind away material. These are the bigger 2" primary headers. Fortunately, I found it is possible to drop out the bottom after removing the oil filter. I guess I'll look at the bright side and take the opportunity to do brake lines and clutch hydraulics while the header is out.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 12:01 pm Post subject:

Boy, that wide-band sensor is so large that I had to carefully grind the hole flush 360 degrees around. It finally threaded in.

Today the car is further along than it has ever been! Clutch hydraulics are installed. Smile

I didn't like the direction the Tick hose inlet was pointing so I moved it around to point the opposite direction under the brake booster so the hose can have a direct path up to the clutch reservoir. I had to use a heat gun to slightly heat the cap so it could be pulled off. Turned the cap around and snapped it back in place while still warm.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:05 pm Post subject:

Harness is starting to take shape. Smile

This looks waaaaaaay better than what Holley gave me and it has extra content that I carried over from the LS1 F-body harness. It's not as good as it could look but I had to work with some of the bulky connectors in the Holley system. I did only a few solders in this whole setup in order to attach a pigtail for the 3-pin temp sensor and add a common ground bundle from LS1 harness. That beats the heck out of the hundreds of solders I did with the F-body harness!

One thing that is saving my butt is the decision a few weeks ago to order a bunch of stuff just to have on hand. I've got a huge assortment of metripack connectors and I've been using a lot of the terminals in that kit. I am so glad I did that! Cool

Next I need to make a connector on the left side that will go to the fuse panel and C101 on the firewall. When I'm done I'll just snap a few connectors together and viola! Thumbs up

I also have to do the transmission stand-alone harness. It is not part of this setup.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 3:08 pm Post subject:

I need to create a stand-alone transmission harness since I no longer have a LS1 PCM. My understanding is that the stock buffer box cannot interpret the speed signal from the T56 trans so I bought a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to do the task. Here is my first stab at creating a stand alone T56 transmission harness. Advice and heckling is welcome.

The reverse gear lockout solenoid is normally driven by engine PCM and opens the shift gate at 5 mph and under. Holley HP can't handle transmission tasks and it can't understand the T56 speed signal either. It can however understand a Hall effect speed sensor. I have an idea brewing to get a speed based control again but need to do a little more research.

MrMike98 · Member Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton

there is a product out there, outputs to reverse lockout below 3-5 mph
input is speed signal...small box...i just cant find the site right now

i am also interested in how you hookup ur reverse lockout.
Mike

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:13 pm Post subject:

You're probably thinking of the Samoco unit. It's $100 and I don't think it can even run the speedometer.

So here's my idea. I think a Hall effect speed sensor gives a OC square wave. So does the Dakota Digital SGI-5. Problem is I don't know what voltage either operates at. I could tap into the SGI-5 and send either the 8000 ppm or 2000 ppm OC signal to the Holley HP and configure it to calculate speed. Then I could use one of the ground sinks to run the reverse lockout.

Thoughts?

aaron_sK · Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:00 pm Post subject:

A speed-driven lockout is the best idea from a drivability standpoint, although RPM would also work.

You should be able to double tap that SGI box. I seem to remember running my GM ECM and Autometer speedometer from the same output pin with no issues.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:44 pm Post subject:

I've got three OC outputs at different frequencies. I can use any of them and compensate with the math in the tune.

I'm going to join the Holley forum and ask around.

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:32 pm Post subject:

Holley doesn't know if this idea will work or not. Just have to try it, I guess.

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 10:19 pm Post subject:

Another thing that I've been mulling over is that Holley highly recommends, and uses, shielded wiring for crank and cam sensor. Problem is I have an extension for the cam sensor over the front of engine that runs right down the valley next to the coils packs. I looked at buying shielded wire and choked on the price. Shocked

So I did my own homemade version. I don't know how much it will help, but it certainly can't hurt!

I had a package of aluminum heat shield tape lying around and simply wrapped the whole harness extension with a single piece of tape. I put the tape right over the plastic split loom so it is easy to remove if I ever have to do repairs. Then I wrapped a ground wire to it and will connect the wire to the ground stud on the firewall.

Do you electrical guys think this will work?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:26 am Post subject:

It will work if you twisted the two signal wires.

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 2:53 pm Post subject:

Okay, thanks.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:42 pm Post subject:

Got a bigger box in the mail today... Holiday grin

Set of C6 Corvette brakes on my original spindles. Had them done by Scott at BigBrakeUpgrade.com. He took them in as soon as I could get my parts in his hands and turned it around in about a week. Nice thing is I got my own spindles back which I really appreciate. It also retains the turn stop, which C4 and LS1 brakes don't.

And that's where a wheel should be! It's amazing how much difference it makes to use my stock spindles rather than the 1LE. It's the difference between sticking out beyond the fender vs. tucked inside the fender. I might just run these wheels for a time and make it a future splurge to change wheels.

Tons of clearance to caliper with the 17" rims.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:48 pm Post subject:

I'm kind of stalled out waiting on parts so I turned my attention to the throttle cable today. You guys know I was wanting a seamless integration for this. Well, I put on my new attitude and figured it out. Twisted Evil

First you must have an expensive pile of parts lying around from all your failed attempts. Laughing

I have the original 3rd gen throttle cable, a 4th gen throttle cable, and I even tried the Lokar throttle cable (sold through Hawks as a conversion part). You can do this mod with just the 3rd gen and 4th gen throttle cables, but I used parts from each kit since I already had it and the Lokar cable was easier to thread through the tubes.

Step 1: Clamp the original 3rd gen tube in a vice and use a heat gun to warm the firewall plug. Pull on the plug like hell and the tube will pull out. Keep the firewall plug and discard everything else.

Step 2: Cut off the swaged end from the 4th gen wire at the throttle body (don't cut off the pedal end or you'll regret it later. And don't fray the wire at all or you'll never get it assembled again.) Pull the wire out and set aside. Cut the 4th gen tube at the firewall plug. You need a good heavy wire cutter because the tube is lined with many strands of strong wire.

Step 3: Now slip the 4th gen tube into the 3rd gen firewall plug. You can make this a water tight seal using adhesive shrink tube. The mechanical joint itself is sufficient and the cable will not come out once constrained at both ends by the firewall plug and throttle bracket (same way Lokar cable is constrained).

Step 4: Slide the 4th gen wire through the tube (or Lokar wire in my case). Re-use the original pedal clip.

Step 5: Finish with a wire clamp designed for use with the throttle body. Cut wire to length for perfect fit. Thumbs up

I used the clamp provided with the Lokar kit because I already had it.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:33 pm Post subject:

Always cut the pedal end. Saves time and money. The throttle end needs a fancy clamp, the pedal end needs a ten cent cable swage from Ace (or just steal one from a jobsite Wink

).

Use a grinder to cut the cable. No fraying, no ruining a wire cutter designed for copper.

QwkTrip · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject:

Ya, that could be a good improvement. I already had the clamp and that's why I did it.

Actually, I have the 4th gen cable and did cut off the pedal end (preserved the throttle blade end). I much prefer the stock ferrule at the throttle body so I might go get one of the ferrules you talk about and see how it turns out. Although, a real swage is made with a special tool, not a pair of pliers or hammer. Wondering how long it will hold on.

QwkTrip · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:38 pm Post subject:

Man, I made some serious progress tonight with sorting out old wiring in the engine bay. Things are coming along!