Cascade Crew

Macke · Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:37 pm Post subject: Valve spring help

hey guys,

so as i've said previously, i'm completely inexperienced with cars, but i've decided to take on the task of changing my valve seals but i have a couple questions...

since not all cylinders willl be in the up position, once i'm done with the ones that are, how do i switch them?

also, since the alternator looks like it will be in the way of the driver side valve cover, will the alternator have to be removed?

i know there's posts about it somewhere, but i guess i just suck at searching as i haven't seen one yet

Macke · Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:10 pm Post subject:

I guess the real question would be... What's the easiest way to get the valve covers off, and once I do, how do I go about cranking the engine before stuffing the cylinder with rope to make sure it's at the top?

chevymad · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:29 am Post subject:

I don't remember what all has to be removed, but its possible the alternators in the way.

Removing all the plugs will make it easier to turn the motor over by hand. Air is a much easier method then the rope, but rope works if you dont have air. I'd remove all the rockers too, this will also make the engine easier to turn since the plugs are out. The engine can be turned by the crank bolt, however that can be stripped if the motor is hard to turn over.

There is a tool that can be bolted on by the crank pulley bolts then a breaker bar or ratchet can be used to turn the motor safely.

I like to use the lever style spring compressor for this, but the brake booster can be in the way some times to get #5 and #7 cylinders.

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:33 am Post subject:

Unless he's got some high compression motor with new rings I don't think it's going to be that hard to turn over with no plugs in it. I always use a 5/8" socket on a 3" extension with a 1/2" ratchet for an SBC. Ford is 15/16 and no extension. Shrug

Macke · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:43 am Post subject:

So do I have to remove the brake line?

I might have accidentally already loosened the cover on the driver side without being able to actually remove it Very Happy

Guess I shouldn't just try to teach myself if I have work the next day LOL

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:59 am Post subject:

No reason to remove brake lines at all.

Valve stem seals is an all day job. If you're inexperienced I'd budget an entire weekend with supplied beer and supervision.

Macke · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:59 am Post subject:

No one to supervise and I'm already into it...

I dun goofed Wink

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 2:39 pm Post subject:

Take pictures so you can reference them to put it back together, or at the worst you can post them here and ask for help.

Don't crack the brake lines.

Macke · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:31 pm Post subject:

Nah, I put it all back together just fine, gonna wait a couple days so I can have someone help.

Somewhere I read that once you pulled the valve covers you have to replace the seals because they crack, but mine looked just fine, and it runs ok, so I guess that was false info

Though I will take pictures when I actually do this so that I can post up my step by step guide..

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:15 pm Post subject:

Centerbolt or perimeter covers?

chevymad · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:40 pm Post subject:

Wow, man.

Smallblocks?

chevymad · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject:

Nearly always 350s. Big blocks use bigger bolts, and old 327s didnt even have a bolt. I think my truck motor either has a longer bolt or a helicoil. LOL

Alphius · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:56 pm Post subject:

I need to helicoil mine next time I have the chance. It's barely holding on by a few threads right now. Laughing

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:48 am Post subject:

I bought the big ARP crank bolt. It's longer and has a bigger head. I think I still have it.