Cascade Crew

Xophertony · Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:10 pm Post subject: Brake build thread.

1st up, a follow up to a discussion that Alhasse, Brandon, and a few others were party to at dyno. Turns out everybody was right. Laughing

The topic I raised was "can I put my 89+ PBR disc brakes on my 10-bolt drum rear end"

The answer is yes, and there is an easy way and a hard way. The hard way can be seen here. http://www.thirdgen.org/ls1reardisc different brakes, but the same method applies.

The easy way is here. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/423270-hassle-free-drum-rear.html?ref=esp-link you do have to buy this http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i30.html

Thought I would give everyone some closer on that.

Next, I am feeling motivated, and have decided to get off my ass, and put my LS1 front brakes on. These things have been sitting in my garage for almost 4 years, they were assembled when i moved into my house, and have still not left the garage.

Paul helped me modify (meaning, he did most of the work) some junkyard spindles, and even sandblasted them for me years ago. in the intervening years, a small bit of surface rust had developed on one of them, so I sanded that off and primed them tonight. I will throw a few coats of semi-gloss black on them tomorrow.

I will also re-research what is needed for this swap, as I have forgotten almost everything I one researched. I will also spend some time tomorrow taking stock of what parts i have, and see if there is anything else I need to acquire before bolting these suckers on and driving.

nonsensekid20 · Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:48 pm Post subject:

So, say I wanted to go the easy way, but with LS brakes. Will those brackets still work? And what to do with the fronts?

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:31 pm Post subject:

I'm busy next weekend, but if you need a hand, I'd love to pitch in. I wanna see the build up on these.

I'm seriously on the fence right now about an 86 IROC that a muffler shop had for sale, or buying up Skyler's old 85 Z/28.

If I don't go that route, its still fun to collect knowledge and help a friend out.

Xophertony · Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:27 pm Post subject:

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

From what I have read on tgo, ed is MIA and so it may be better to source the brackets elsewhere if one needs them ib a realitivly short time.

alloy · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:36 am Post subject:

I've done many the "hard" way, and it isn't hard at all. A sawzsall makes quick work of the flange, and a sharp drill bit for the holes. Takes about an hour to mod the flange. The hardest part was making up the new flared brake lines and the new braided flex lines.

redlava · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:49 pm Post subject:

For the front brakes make sure you get the front 1le brake hoses. Even though people say the stock ones are long enough, they pull a little to tightly for my taste.

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:37 am Post subject:

I already have a set of braided steel 1LE brake lines. Smile

Xophertony · Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:43 am Post subject:

As promised, here are the instructions for building the LS1 brake kit.
http://lukeskaff.com/?page_id=329

all of this information was compiled from this, the mother fo all TGO threads.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/183169-98-camaro-ls1-brakes.html

Have fun!

Twigger · New Member Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 17

Looking good so far keep the pictures coming!

Xophertony · Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:35 pm Post subject:

Well, i finished painting my modified spindles. about 3 coats of gloss black.

I mounted the caliper carrier brackets to the spindles, and everything went fine. Per the article I linked before I tightened these bolts to 83 foot pounds with Loc-tight.

Things went a little awry when i mounted the caliper carriers to the caliper carrier brackets. They were not true. one side was closer (actually scraping) the rotor, while the other side was even. both sides need to be centered on the brake rotor in order to maintain even braking pressure and even pad wear. I will need to procure some spacers in order to properly mount the caliper carrier over the rotor. standard washers are too thick.

I had hoped to have this done on Sunday, all of this will depend on being able to locate the spacers I need.

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:19 am Post subject:

I would take a caliper to your carrier and messure it. When I originally did the C4 swap, the carriers were had large variations in them, so even with the bracket true, the carrier wasn't.

That being said.... if your carrier is not making contact with the rotor, you are probably alright. The floating caliper will center itself, then the hydrolic pressure moves it, you'll be alright on pad wear and braking so long as your rotor isn't contacting the carrier.

You may be able to just pick up another carrier and solve the issue, my guess is that is the case, and not the brackets being untrue.

iansane · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:57 am Post subject:

Wait, the LS brakes fit under crosslace wheels?

Al Hasse · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:01 am Post subject:

According to Ed Miller, they do. But you need a spacer between the wheel and the hub.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/posts/brake-board/278821-brake-upgrades-wheel-fitment/2189344-post4.html

Xophertony · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 10:14 am Post subject:

I have heard that the clearance without the spacer is the width of a playing card, and that the spacers (that I do have) are just for peace of mind.

I'll fit up the other carrier tonight and see if they are both off by the same amount or what. if one is fine and the other is warped i'll pick up a replacement. If they are both tweaked i'll see about spacers (the one does hit the rotor)

I did not know the caliper "floated" in the carrier enough to "self align", that is great news. thanks for that information.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:38 am Post subject:

No John is a little off. He had terrible pad wear. The caliper floats in and out, side loading will break the slides or at very least the pads will wear unevenly.

You need to install the caliper on the carrier itself and recheck and check BOTH sides. Put new pads on and see how the gaps are.

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:59 am Post subject:

Mine had wear because we machined down the carrier, and it wasn't square. so I wore the pads with a funny taper. If the carrier is squar to the rotor, but slightly offset the caliper will just be possed just slightly off center on the pins, not big deal there is ample room along the slide pins.

Whiskeychick · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:51 pm Post subject:

just in case I have the ls1 rear brakes on my gta. they fit under the lace wheels, it is just very tight. I had to make mine work for the 9 bolt, so can't help with specifics.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:33 pm Post subject:

I didn't recall that the carriers were milled?

Dewey316 · Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 6:25 am Post subject:

Yup, when Dan and I first installed them, the carrier rit the rotor, so we trimmed it to fit, which after the fact proved to be out of square and that is why the pads wore with that funny taper on them. You notice it didn't just wear one pad faster than the other, it wore a funny taper into both pads.