Cascade Crew

[jchaussee]

Got them installed yesterday. Went fairly easy. I also took car of my clogged cat while I was at it. Cost me 20 to have all welded up. That included having new/used double tips welded on. For now my exhaust is welded as one from front to back. We couldn't find a 2 1/2 3 bolt flange so welded headers strait to y pipe. I swear but I could be trippin, but it seems to run cooler now because of no clogged cat. Though I am sure my under Hood temps are a lot higher. Burnt into on wire so far, but I figures it would happen. I still need tovhet new plugs and wires. But the biggest improvement is my exhaust leak is gone. It had a high end tick sound and nowbit purrs like a tiger.

[Twilightoptics]

You've got to have 90deg boots and secure them really well away from headers.

Headers have alot more surface area to dissapate the heat. Cheap wires wont last either.

Nor will MSD wires.

[jchaussee]

What wires do you recommend and I do have the 90 degree boots right now but my wires are old and have touched the exhaust a few times. And they are mismatched so figured now us a good time.

[MrMike98]

Accell 9002C these are a ceramic boot-these will take the heat-but u still need to keep them from touching headers..
down side=$$$

[jchaussee]

Holy moly. Cash is right. What's the next step or two down.

[aaron_sK]

I have had terrible luck with Accell wires.

I use Taylor build-your-own on all the good cars and love 'em.

A well-built wire clamp setup is more important than expensive wires IMO. Don't just zip-tie everything together.

If your exhaust shop couldn't find 3-bolt flanges you should have kept driving.

[Twilightoptics]

Taylor wins.

Summit is a taylor wire with a slightly inferior boot, but I ran em for a long time and they worked great.

Just buy a crimping tool and make your length good for routing and keep it away from the pipes and you're good to go.

Think the summit v8 with external coil HEI type terminals 90deg was like $25... Prob 30-35 now.

[Twilightoptics]

[aaron_sK]

I've done the figure-8 thing with zipties chaining them all together. It works but it makes me feel like an idiot.

I really like the Taylor clamp kits. I usually buy two kits and make it look nice.

[jchaussee]

He had bigger flanges. Wasn't exhaust should per se. All around mechanic shop. But ya for 20 dollars including the pipe and new tips, I coundnt say no. And beauty of everything being welded, only gaskets I have to change are the header gaskets and they are easy. He also said if I wanted he would cut off and redo at collectors width flanges. I just didn't want to drive open headers all the way home

[jchaussee]

Ya. Right now I have several zipties. The PO installed non matching plugs and wires so some are way long as it is. I figure it will get me by for a few weeks

[iansane]

I love zipties (zap straps in canunck-enese ). I used them on the 305 and with the head of the zip tie turned down it didn't look bad at all! And kept them all separated well.

[Al Hasse]

Taylor cut to fit wires, a good loom for routing and insulators over the boots (insulators are necessary with my headers).

[jchaussee]

That looks real nice al. May be way I go. So far plug wires fine. It is my loom of wires that goes to starter that now has me wotried

[aaron_sK]

Remote solenoid solves that problem.

[jchaussee]

Which is.?? Tell me more. Inform me. Because it is quote a problem cause main battery wire and all alt wires are within that loom.

[aaron_sK]

I dislike the GM factory solenoid and prefer to run them up on the fender. But that's just me. The wiring can be routed so it does not burn on the headers with the factory solenoid.

[jchaussee]

So do you just disconnect it from starter?

[Twilightoptics]

[aaron_sK]

Well I'll be damned, Paul. I think the 3800S2 is a gear reduction starter. Maybe I should test this before I lay out the wiring harness!